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Post by dickie on Jan 9, 2022 21:51:54 GMT
Hi Folks,
The manifold is now in place, I had to undo both engine mounts and jack the engine up.
I had to move the AC pipe out of the way and bend it to the side with a tyre lever which give just enough room to slide the heat blanket back into place.
I an waiting for a 200 cell cat and some exhaust connectors to finish the install.
Once all the connections ars made the manifold comes off for ceramic coating.
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Post by boggissimo on Jan 13, 2022 12:52:50 GMT
Been battling with the LED headlamps again. I wired one of them into the sidelight (for DLR halo) and indicator (same halo but orange light), and it worked fine. Then I did the same to the other side, and it didn't quite work - the sidelight signal lit up the orange halo, and the indicator flashed just a portion of the halo in white! I swapped the leads over but still got the same result, so something must be wrong with the chip inside. Currently trying to get the eBay seller to send me a replacement. One of the sidelight bulb holders disintegrated when I put it back in, so got a new set from MX5parts, and have a replacement sidelight/indicator unit coming from Suffolk Mazda to replace the cracked one from the ditch incident.
Also got a new PAS-only belt so I can remove the AC compressor and any remaining hoses within the engine bay, and a brake proportioning valve hopefully to sort the front-biased brakes and help them not to lock up so much. Might need to rebuild the other rear caliper at the same time to get the most out of the rear brakes.
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 17, 2022 15:50:20 GMT
Spent the weekend helping a friend covert his SC MK2.5 (that I helped convert) to a TD04 turbo set up. A couple of bits didn’t show up so couldn’t get it finished but should be buttoned up this weekend. Then it’s going off to Basset Down for mapping 🙂
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Post by Zed. on Jan 17, 2022 17:56:14 GMT
playing with carbonfibre...
messy bloody stuff.
Rich.
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Post by dickie on Jan 17, 2022 18:26:52 GMT
Hi Rich,
What out for splinters from it when its cured they are Nasty.
The grinding dust is Nasty too. Its conductive and can cause electrolysis.
Remember the old batteries They were zinc paste with a carbon rod through the middle and gave approx 1.5 volts.
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Post by Zed. on Jan 17, 2022 18:43:54 GMT
Hi Rich, What out for splinters from it when its cured they are Nasty. The grinding dust is Nasty too. Its conductive and can cause electrolysis. Remember the old batteries They were zinc paste with a carbon rod through the middle and gave approx 1.5 volts. drill & cut with a hosepipe running over it  I agree it's dreadfull stuff though  Rich. |
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Post by boggissimo on Jan 18, 2022 11:44:46 GMT
Finished off getting the AC stuff out last night, the compressor thing and mounting plate on the engine weigh quite a bit. Got a nice pile of scrap to get rid of now, saw some vids on YouTube saying it's about 40 lbs, so 18 kg!
Hope to get new headlight delivered tomorrow so I can fit before Friday's rally, if not the standard lamps are going back in. Not sure if I can fit the bias valve in time, I don't want to have a "bleeding" nightmare and not be able to run it...when taking out the OEM proportioning unit, will any air introduced go up towards the reservoir, or down into the lines meaning I have to bleed the whole lot? Any way to avoid it?
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Post by batou on Jan 18, 2022 12:28:06 GMT
Finished off getting the AC stuff out last night, the compressor thing and mounting plate on the engine weigh quite a bit. Got a nice pile of scrap to get rid of now, saw some vids on YouTube saying it's about 40 lbs, so 18 kg! Hope to get new headlight delivered tomorrow so I can fit before Friday's rally, if not the standard lamps are going back in. Not sure if I can fit the bias valve in time, I don't want to have a "bleeding" nightmare and not be able to run it...when taking out the OEM proportioning unit, will any air introduced go up towards the reservoir, or down into the lines meaning I have to bleed the whole lot? Any way to avoid it? When I removed it from mine with all of the mountings it amounted to around 17-18kg from memory so thats about right, I've put that weight back in, and higher up though as the GCF 3 roll bar weighs 18kg  |
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Post by dickie on Jan 18, 2022 19:15:35 GMT
Finished off getting the AC stuff out last night, the compressor thing and mounting plate on the engine weigh quite a bit. Got a nice pile of scrap to get rid of now, saw some vids on YouTube saying it's about 40 lbs, so 18 kg! Hope to get new headlight delivered tomorrow so I can fit before Friday's rally, if not the standard lamps are going back in. Not sure if I can fit the bias valve in time, I don't want to have a "bleeding" nightmare and not be able to run it...when taking out the OEM proportioning unit, will any air introduced go up towards the reservoir, or down into the lines meaning I have to bleed the whole lot? Any way to avoid it? When I removed it from mine with all of the mountings it amounted to around 17-18kg from memory so thats about right, I've put that weight back in, and higher up though as the GCF 3 roll bar weighs 18kg  Hi If you take the pads out then pump the pistons out using a bit of something the thickness of a worn pad to stop them coming out too far you can fit the valve next to the master cylinder ( Cling film over the top to stop the fluid draining out ) once fitted you push the pistons all the way back in and the bubbles should come out at the reservoir, I use a big syringe to remove the fluild from the reservoir to stop it flooding out. all a bit complicated but it worked when I fitted mine. If you want to fit the valve in the transmission tunnel you will have to bleed the brakes.
Hope this makes some sort of sense !!
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Post by boggissimo on Jan 20, 2022 11:44:38 GMT
Hi If you take the pads out then pump the pistons out using a bit of something the thickness of a worn pad to stop them coming out too far you can fit the valve next to the master cylinder ( Cling film over the top to stop the fluid draining out ) once fitted you push the pistons all the way back in and the bubbles should come out at the reservoir, I use a big syringe to remove the fluild from the reservoir to stop it flooding out. all a bit complicated but it worked when I fitted mine. If you want to fit the valve in the transmission tunnel you will have to bleed the brakes.
Hope this makes some sort of sense !!
Would have been better if I'd read your message before doing the job last night  Valve went in OK but the straight connector for the front circuit was leaking fluid, so looks like I've got the wrong type. Trying to fix that today, then will need to do a proper bleed to make sure there's no air in the system.
Also fitted a new pair of halo headlamps, both seem to work OK, will need to adjust the aim slightly still.
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Post by boggissimo on Jan 20, 2022 11:45:28 GMT
Finished off getting the AC stuff out last night, the compressor thing and mounting plate on the engine weigh quite a bit. Got a nice pile of scrap to get rid of now, saw some vids on YouTube saying it's about 40 lbs, so 18 kg! Hope to get new headlight delivered tomorrow so I can fit before Friday's rally, if not the standard lamps are going back in. Not sure if I can fit the bias valve in time, I don't want to have a "bleeding" nightmare and not be able to run it...when taking out the OEM proportioning unit, will any air introduced go up towards the reservoir, or down into the lines meaning I have to bleed the whole lot? Any way to avoid it? When I removed it from mine with all of the mountings it amounted to around 17-18kg from memory so thats about right, I've put that weight back in, and higher up though as the GCF 3 roll bar weighs 18kg Yep I've put a hard top on so taking out the AC stuff probably balances that out. Should really take the soft top off for winter, then it really would have lost some weight! |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jan 21, 2022 18:54:51 GMT
Removed the dash, interior and the entire wiring loom from my Mk2.5 donor car ready for putting into my Mk1
Fading light stopped play, but not too much left to do tomorrow
Russell
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Post by dickie on Jan 23, 2022 14:05:57 GMT
Hi Folks,
Today I took the fibreglass exhaust wrap off the Mk2.5 exhaust Cat pipe section which is stainless steel aftermarket.
I had put two layers of wrap over the Cat, As I unwrapped it the last layer fell onto the floor with a tinkle! the fine weave had partially melted into thin plates of glass which shattered when they hit the floor.
I shall have to see if Basalt exhaust wrap will take a higher temp for the new systems Cat.
I have some new adaptors / connections to join the Simpson Manifold to the M2 system. It appears that the Simpsom downpipe is just under 2 1/2" ( 2 3/8" )
So I have a 60mm to 64mm reducer to sort that out.
Cheers Dickie
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Post by boggissimo on Jan 25, 2022 15:55:03 GMT
I tried to finish off the brake bias valve install on Thursday, with a different/new inline connector for the front lines, but it was still leaking when I pushed the pedal. So I chopped a few mm off each end of the connector to prevent the male parts bottoming out, and it seemed better. I bled the calipers and took it out for a drive to try to set the balance up. Lots of (deliberate) lockups, all at the front - and when I got back to the garage it had leaked fluid into the engine bay again, so was still not right, and I ran out of time to use the car for the rally on Friday (went in the Subaru instead, and came joint first  ). I went to BOFI's site and ordered their version of the inline connector, as I think it's probably to do with the brake pipe flare not sealing correctly with the inline connector - I had a generic connector but if BOFI's is actually the same then something else is wrong (and BOFI's is way overpriced). While waiting for that to arrive, I fitted a new piston to the rear passenger side caliper as it was looking crusty, and I replaced the driver's side piston last year sometime. |
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Post by Zed. on Jan 25, 2022 17:59:51 GMT
and BOFI's is way overpriced
I have bought selected items from them BUT always compared prices & looked for discount-codes  Rich. |
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).
le sigh