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Post by dickie on Feb 1, 2022 22:18:31 GMT
Hi Wannabe,
Performance White for Racecars.
They recomended a different coating for a dual use car witha longer warranty.
It will have a heat blanket over the manifold as well as the Ceramic so I don't care what the colour is.
Cost is around £350 plus a little cut for Uncle Boris.
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 2, 2022 10:13:06 GMT
Hi, I think you found the Big Brake inbalance problem. My old super charged car had willwood 4 pots on the front and stock back brakes with no balance adjustment. ( bought it like that ) Loads more braking at the front with the backs no doing much. I suggest that you look into softer grippier pads for the back end to help it bite more.
Yep, or bigger brakes at the back too 
About time for some new pads anyway, I've had some Rodders ones in and out of my basket at Bofi for a while...
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Post by wannabe on Feb 3, 2022 2:51:35 GMT
Hi Wannabe, Performance White for Racecars. They recomended a different coating for a dual use car witha longer warranty. It will have a heat blanket over the manifold as well as the Ceramic so I don't care what the colour is. Cost is around £350 plus a little cut for Uncle Boris. Thanks for the info!  I think that's very reasonable - I swear I've seen it quoted at £1000+? Or that might have been the whole system, I can't remember... lol I think it's overkill for a 99% road car but I would like it done haha |
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Post by dickie on Feb 3, 2022 21:54:04 GMT
Hi Wannabe, Have you measured the temp of your exhaust manifold after a good thrash.  Its all part of my ongoing engine project. I have just found email from zircotec £390 + Vat. I have already melted some glassfibre exhaust wrap on the old Cat so this time I will wrap the cat in Basalt. I have had a quote for a custom billet crank to run with 85mm pistons keeping the capacity down to 1796cc As I am in A3 1800cc to 2300cc I have a mad idea to shorten the stroke to drop into A2 with a max of 1800cc I should end up with a short stroke oversquare long rod configuation tatal loss of capacity 44cc I should have a configuration with lower piston speed, more dwell at TDC and BDC and the ability to rev to 9000 or more. I already have quite a few parts on the shelf already.Spare block, boundrey pump, stud kit for top and bottom, High comp pistons on order. Currently running 8000 rpm stock rods pistons with ATI superdamper. I will be stuffing a set of 85mm 12.1 Wossners under an 80 thou skimmed head. I will be losing 11cc per cylinder of compressable volume. I will use a cometic head gasket to adjust the clearance CR on assembly. Its almost my last bit of engine Madness before I hit retirement in a few years time. I am having to juggle my spending between this and an expensive engine build for my 1934 sports Austin which already has cost over £4000 in parts. It has a billet fully counterbalanced crank with matching rods. Newman Cams are doing a custom one off cam and followers for it I will have slipper pistons, uprated custom oilpump. Its a 1920s engine design that will rev to 7000 rpm ( Crank is rated to 8500 rpm ) |
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 8, 2022 11:29:22 GMT
Spent an hour or so wrestling with the fuel filter under my NA last night. It's in an awkward position and the hoses are old and stiff, so after a while failing to get the hoses off the ends of the old filter, I gave up and put it back into its bracket  Wish I had a proper ramp/lift! My neighbour's garage has an old-skool pit in the floor so might ask if I can have some time in there... |
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 8, 2022 11:46:37 GMT
Spent an hour or so wrestling with the fuel filter under my NA last night. It's in an awkward position and the hoses are old and stiff, so after a while failing to get the hoses off the ends of the old filter, I gave up and put it back into its bracket  Wish I had a proper ramp/lift! My neighbour's garage has an old-skool pit in the floor so might ask if I can have some time in there... Don’t know if you’ve got one or if they’re still available but the davefab rear jacking bar makes lifting the back of the car a doddle. A hair dryer on the hoses might help? But I’m with you & would kill for a ramp/ lift. |
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Post by scottydugg on Feb 8, 2022 12:20:52 GMT
Spent an hour or so wrestling with the fuel filter under my NA last night. It's in an awkward position and the hoses are old and stiff, so after a while failing to get the hoses off the ends of the old filter, I gave up and put it back into its bracket Wish I had a proper ramp/lift! My neighbour's garage has an old-skool pit in the floor so might ask if I can have some time in there... I found leaving the filter in the bracket, then twisting the hoses with some grips (clockwise/anti-clockwise), made them a lot easier to remove. Just de-pressurise the system first and have a rag handy, I got a bit of a liberal dose of eau de petroleum. Actually, if you have the new one handy, leave a blank in one end and connect the other as soon as it's off the old filter, I think that's what I did. |
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 8, 2022 13:26:11 GMT
Spent an hour or so wrestling with the fuel filter under my NA last night. It's in an awkward position and the hoses are old and stiff, so after a while failing to get the hoses off the ends of the old filter, I gave up and put it back into its bracket Wish I had a proper ramp/lift! My neighbour's garage has an old-skool pit in the floor so might ask if I can have some time in there... I found leaving the filter in the bracket, then twisting the hoses with some grips (clockwise/anti-clockwise), made them a lot easier to remove. Just de-pressurise the system first and have a rag handy, I got a bit of a liberal dose of eau de petroleum. Actually, if you have the new one handy, leave a blank in one end and connect the other as soon as it's off the old filter, I think that's what I did. Yep I had run the car and took out the fuel pump connection which should have depressurised it - will try loosening up the hoses with the bracket still in place, good idea.
I did look at getting one of those mini tilting lift things (like this) but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
howardb66 I have a horizontal bar/brace between the two rear suspension assemblies, which I use to jack it up, probably works the same as the Davefab bar - and yes, a bit of heat would help the flexibility of the hoses. Might just be a job for the warmer months! |
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Post by zoona on Feb 8, 2022 14:12:47 GMT
Not actually to my car, but in prep for making an exhaust (parts in background), I made a welding cart for my new welder:  |
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 14, 2022 9:23:57 GMT
Not actually to my car, but in prep for making an exhaust (parts in background), I made a welding cart for my new welder: Very snazzy! I made mine out of an old ironing board  |
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 14, 2022 9:28:00 GMT
Went down near Guildford on Friday evening for a 12-car rally, and finally won one! We dropped a couple of minutes on one section but were otherwise clean, and beat the next crew by 1 minute.
The car ran well but I'm still getting a scraping/graunching noise from the front left corner on some right-hand turns - something is touching the wheel but I can't work out what, as to inspect it there's not enough load on that corner to make it touch. The wheel arch appears clear of any sticking out bits but I'll have to get under there again before the Pom at Silverstone next weekend.
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 14, 2022 9:51:47 GMT
Went down near Guildford on Friday evening for a 12-car rally, and finally won one! We dropped a couple of minutes on one section but were otherwise clean, and beat the next crew by 1 minute. The car ran well but I'm still getting a scraping/graunching noise from the front left corner on some right-hand turns - something is touching the wheel but I can't work out what, as to inspect it there's not enough load on that corner to make it touch. The wheel arch appears clear of any sticking out bits but I'll have to get under there again before the Pom at Silverstone next weekend. Wheel arch liner? Mine have a couple of worn through areas at the top where there’s a ridge on the liner. |
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 14, 2022 10:13:48 GMT
Went down near Guildford on Friday evening for a 12-car rally, and finally won one! We dropped a couple of minutes on one section but were otherwise clean, and beat the next crew by 1 minute. The car ran well but I'm still getting a scraping/graunching noise from the front left corner on some right-hand turns - something is touching the wheel but I can't work out what, as to inspect it there's not enough load on that corner to make it touch. The wheel arch appears clear of any sticking out bits but I'll have to get under there again before the Pom at Silverstone next weekend. Wheel arch liner? Mine have a couple of worn through areas at the top where there’s a ridge on the liner. Could be, they had some worn patches anyway where the bigger tyres had been rubbing on compression (before I fitted the top mount spacers), but the sound is a bit more metallic scraping rather than plastic rubbing. |
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Post by batou on Feb 14, 2022 12:10:35 GMT
Wheel arch liner? Mine have a couple of worn through areas at the top where there’s a ridge on the liner. Could be, they had some worn patches anyway where the bigger tyres had been rubbing on compression (before I fitted the top mount spacers), but the sound is a bit more metallic scraping rather than plastic rubbing. I had several worn holes in the top of my liners from tyre contact, I've trimmed them recently into an almost half mood and test fit, still getting noises so need to cut moar. I think I can probably only run the rear section of the liner but I'l keeo cutting until they go quiet. |
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Post by batou on Feb 14, 2022 21:28:21 GMT
Started the install of my Oil temp gauge, I modified the eyeball vent slightly to get a better fit and it looks really neat so far and got through an existing gromet in the firewall to get the sensor to where the sandwich plate will be. I'll admit I'm not the best, infact pretty terrible at wiring, but looking at my options and this is what I have to work with...  I'm not going near the ignition wiring, will splice into the stereo. From that harness there and from reading various miata wiring diagrams I have matched up the following on the main stereo harness: A Blue/Black = Accessory C Blue/Red = Constant 12v E Red/Black = Illumination Its a Eunos, so just concerned it might be different. I found a post on here that references Clubroadster which confirms the above too. And also the following document looks to match up: mazda-speed.com/faq/audio/If I suck it and see, whats the worst that could happen, just a fuse?  Ta Edit. Noticed my iso adapter has the description of what each wire is on their in small, faded print, could only see it in better light. All good. |
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le sigh