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Post by Zed. on Feb 14, 2022 22:29:29 GMT
whats the worst that could happen, just a fuse?   Rich. |
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Post by batou on Feb 15, 2022 7:54:05 GMT
whats the worst that could happen, just a fuse? Rich. Just pulled my iso adapter out for the stereo (as I'm going to wire into that so its easily reversible/removeable) and when I look at it in decent light all of the wires have faded lettering telling me what each of them are lol. Problem solved, well partially, had to buy a new soldering iron, f*k knows where mines gone  |
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 18, 2022 9:23:56 GMT
Wheel arch liner? Mine have a couple of worn through areas at the top where there’s a ridge on the liner. Could be, they had some worn patches anyway where the bigger tyres had been rubbing on compression (before I fitted the top mount spacers), but the sound is a bit more metallic scraping rather than plastic rubbing. I had a look last night, and the nearside arch/liner is definitely closer to the wheel than on the offside, so something's got bent in my trip to the ditch it seems. The worn bits on the liner are all plastic, so I'm not too concerned about ripping the tyre, but would probably be good to take off the wing and have a proper look. Need a new one anyway really, as it's got a nice big rust hole in the skin at the bottom, and a dented bit where it meets the front bumper (where I met the grit bin on my way into the ditch)...anyone got a spare offside front wing in white?! |
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Post by dickie on Feb 18, 2022 21:04:57 GMT
I have a pair of blue ones from an R Ltd in the loft slighty rusty at the bottom.
Bit far from you though. !!!
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Post by atlex on Feb 18, 2022 21:27:04 GMT
Took the ITB car to a bodyshop to review. Chap pulled some wool off the bumper. He's agreed to take it in two weeks.
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 23, 2022 15:34:11 GMT
My gearshift has become a bit recalcitrant recently, getting a bit stiff and sometimes making it hard to get into gear (especially from 2nd to 3rd at high revs). I had changed the gearbox oil back in autumn 2020 and it starting being noticeably worse in the summer last year, so I thought I'd check the turret oil....there was basically nothing in there! Does it make its way into the main gearbox eventually, or does it just leak onto the road? Haven't noticed any drips or puddles under there so not quite sure where it went. Anyway I put in some Redline shockproof to see if that helps. Will check the main gearbox oil next time to make sure it's still got some too...
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 24, 2022 15:08:13 GMT
More basic maintenance last night, thought I should have a proper go at sorting out my slow windows, especially passenger side. We need to wind it up and down at every control on a rally so it'd be nice if it didn't take 20 seconds each way! I had the centre console out for doing the gearbox turret oil so I took out the switch, picked up all the little metal contacts that sprang all over the floor, cleaned them up (with wet/dry and some electrical cleaner), and put it back together. Didn't make a noticeable difference so it was time to get the door card off and get into the nitty gritty.
I took off the plastic liner with the mysterious black goo, but didn't need to take out the door opening/locking mechanism, just undo it to get the plastic past it. Then I took out the glass (3 x 10mm) and the runners (3 x 14mm on the outside one, 4 x 14mm on the inside one with the regulator gubbins. I also undid the motor but when it didn't come out through the hole, I thought that I don't actually need to do anything with it, so put it back in place and just unhooked the cables from the regulator. Glad I took a couple of pictures of how it connected beforehand otherwise I would have been confused later.
I cleaned out the runner channels with brake cleaner and rags, got all the mayonnaise off and covered them in silicone lubricant spray. People on the FB group are very keen on Honda Shin-Etsu silicone grease, is it really that good? Or would any other silicone grease do the job equally well for a sixth of the price? Anyway, I put the runners and regulator back in and will grease up the window when I put it back, but it needs a new mushroom bush thing to go in the channel, so will get a pair of Delrin ones from Moss. Might as well do the door rubbers at the same time and see whether they are really as amazing as everyone keeps saying...
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Post by scottydugg on Feb 24, 2022 15:17:20 GMT
More basic maintenance last night, thought I should have a proper go at sorting out my slow windows, especially passenger side. We need to wind it up and down at every control on a rally so it'd be nice if it didn't take 20 seconds each way! I had the centre console out for doing the gearbox turret oil so I took out the switch, picked up all the little metal contacts that sprang all over the floor, cleaned them up (with wet/dry and some electrical cleaner), and put it back together. Didn't make a noticeable difference so it was time to get the door card off and get into the nitty gritty. I took off the plastic liner with the mysterious black goo, but didn't need to take out the door opening/locking mechanism, just undo it to get the plastic past it. Then I took out the glass (3 x 10mm) and the runners (3 x 14mm on the outside one, 4 x 14mm on the inside one with the regulator gubbins. I also undid the motor but when it didn't come out through the hole, I thought that I don't actually need to do anything with it, so put it back in place and just unhooked the cables from the regulator. Glad I took a couple of pictures of how it connected beforehand otherwise I would have been confused later. I cleaned out the runner channels with brake cleaner and rags, got all the mayonnaise off and covered them in silicone lubricant spray. People on the FB group are very keen on Honda Shin-Etsu silicone grease, is it really that good? Or would any other silicone grease do the job equally well for a sixth of the price? Anyway, I put the runners and regulator back in and will grease up the window when I put it back, but it needs a new mushroom bush thing to go in the channel, so will get a pair of Delrin ones from Moss. Might as well do the door rubbers at the same time and see whether they are really as amazing as everyone keeps saying... It is a paint to put it all back in if you haven't taken a note of how it came out. I found lubricant spray dries out too quickly, your better with a tube of lube, but after doing mine I found it didn't go much faster. Plan is to try the Shin Etsu in the channel and some graphite powder in with the cables. that seems to be the done thing to get them up to speed. |
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Post by mark42 on Feb 26, 2022 10:45:32 GMT
Lower the window and spray some wd40 in the channels that the glass slides in. This cured my slow passenger window. I wasn’t expecting it to work but it did.
I’d been tinkering with it for ages, stripped it all out and cleaned the mechanism, making sure the alignment was spot on and all free to move properly, all with no improvement. Even got fed up and bought a whole new mech for £75 late one night but still no improvement.
I’d tried silicone spray down the glass channels before but no joy. The wd40 was on the shelf so gave it a squirt out of sheer frustration (the tin says it frees sticky mechanisms, right!).
10 secs later it was sorted and still fine a couple of years later.
I honestly haven’t found anything that silicone spray is good for - it seems to get tacky after a while which is the exact opposite of what you want lubricant to be, isn’t it?
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Post by batou on Feb 26, 2022 19:50:25 GMT
More basic maintenance last night, thought I should have a proper go at sorting out my slow windows, especially passenger side. We need to wind it up and down at every control on a rally so it'd be nice if it didn't take 20 seconds each way! I had the centre console out for doing the gearbox turret oil so I took out the switch, picked up all the little metal contacts that sprang all over the floor, cleaned them up (with wet/dry and some electrical cleaner), and put it back together. Didn't make a noticeable difference so it was time to get the door card off and get into the nitty gritty. I took off the plastic liner with the mysterious black goo, but didn't need to take out the door opening/locking mechanism, just undo it to get the plastic past it. Then I took out the glass (3 x 10mm) and the runners (3 x 14mm on the outside one, 4 x 14mm on the inside one with the regulator gubbins. I also undid the motor but when it didn't come out through the hole, I thought that I don't actually need to do anything with it, so put it back in place and just unhooked the cables from the regulator. Glad I took a couple of pictures of how it connected beforehand otherwise I would have been confused later. I cleaned out the runner channels with brake cleaner and rags, got all the mayonnaise off and covered them in silicone lubricant spray. People on the FB group are very keen on Honda Shin-Etsu silicone grease, is it really that good? Or would any other silicone grease do the job equally well for a sixth of the price? Anyway, I put the runners and regulator back in and will grease up the window when I put it back, but it needs a new mushroom bush thing to go in the channel, so will get a pair of Delrin ones from Moss. Might as well do the door rubbers at the same time and see whether they are really as amazing as everyone keeps saying... Heres what I did on mine, video shows difference. Well worth taking it all out and checking the runners and bushings. mighty5s.com/post/46960 |
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Post by wannabe on Feb 26, 2022 22:53:17 GMT
Hi Wannabe, Performance White for Racecars. They recomended a different coating for a dual use car witha longer warranty. It will have a heat blanket over the manifold as well as the Ceramic so I don't care what the colour is. Cost is around £350 plus a little cut for Uncle Boris. Thanks for the info!  I think that's very reasonable - I swear I've seen it quoted at £1000+? Or that might have been the whole system, I can't remember... lol I think it's overkill for a 99% road car but I would like it done  haha |
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Post by boggissimo on Feb 28, 2022 9:21:38 GMT
Lower the window and spray some wd40 in the channels that the glass slides in. This cured my slow passenger window. I wasn’t expecting it to work but it did. I’d been tinkering with it for ages, stripped it all out and cleaned the mechanism, making sure the alignment was spot on and all free to move properly, all with no improvement. Even got fed up and bought a whole new mech for £75 late one night but still no improvement. I’d tried silicone spray down the glass channels before but no joy. The wd40 was on the shelf so gave it a squirt out of sheer frustration (the tin says it frees sticky mechanisms, right!). 10 secs later it was sorted and still fine a couple of years later. I honestly haven’t found anything that silicone spray is good for - it seems to get tacky after a while which is the exact opposite of what you want lubricant to be, isn’t it? Thanks Mark, will give that a try if the 'received wisdom' of silicone grease doesn't do the job. New bushings due from Moss this week which should help. |
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 28, 2022 11:51:28 GMT
Hi Wannabe, Performance White for Racecars. They recomended a different coating for a dual use car witha longer warranty. It will have a heat blanket over the manifold as well as the Ceramic so I don't care what the colour is. Cost is around £350 plus a little cut for Uncle Boris. Thanks for the info!  I think that's very reasonable - I swear I've seen it quoted at £1000+? Or that might have been the whole system, I can't remember... lol I think it's overkill for a 99% road car but I would like it done  haha ‘Lava’ wrap is about £25🙂 |
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Post by dickie on Feb 28, 2022 18:44:28 GMT
Hi folks,
The reason for zircotec is due to the fact that wrap covered in oil becomes a wick and burns well.
I have been there and done that, thank goodness for having an MSA extinguisher on board.
I have already melted some Glass wrap so I will try Basalt further down the system after the manifold.
I should have some spare cash to get it done at the end of the month.
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Post by boggissimo on Mar 1, 2022 13:03:50 GMT
New bushings due from Moss this week which should help. And they arrived yesterday (ordered Friday, so pretty good). No instructions on the window bushings about where the various washers should go, but YouTube saved the day again.
Cleaned the glass, fitted the bushing, lubed it up, put the glass back in, wondered why one of the bolts was much longer than the other. Put the plastic shield with black gunk back on, put the door card back on, went to attach the grab handle/armrest and wondered why one of the bolts didn't reach.
Fuxake. 
Took the door card back off again, unscrewed the extra long bolt holding the glass in, replaced with the too-short one from the grab handle, sealed it all back up again and put the door card back on with the correct bolts holding the grab handle.
Also fitted a new door latch bracket and delrin door bushing. Wasn't amazed at the difference in sound when shutting the door like everyone seems to be on YouTube when they fit them, wonder if I'll notice the difference when driving?
The passenger window now goes up and down nicely, won't be quite so embarrassing at the controls on Friday's rally! Trouble is, it's now the driver's side that's slow so I'll need to do it all again on that side. Maybe I'll learn from my mistakes this time?!
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haha
haha
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT