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Post by archmatux on May 7, 2019 12:23:49 GMT
Hi Guys, Unfortunately my diff died on my 1.6 Eunos roadster import. When I bought it I was told it was an LSD and it certainly drove like one. By the size I also know it's not a torsen so made the assumption that I had a VLSD. I bought a cheap replacement VLSD without stub shafts as I could just swap in the ones from my existing diff right? I had the plan to swap it in over the weekend but I've run into a snag. Every video and picture of a VLSD I've seen shows two differently sized stub shafts. I'm also used to seeing different ears on the stub flanges. So.... what exactly have I just pulled out of the car: I've got a replacement VLSD ready to go in but I'm assuming I can't use these half shafts. Some google would suggest this might be a mazdaspeed item and there is some mazdaspeed branding on the car but I had assumed it was put there by a previous owner. Any ideas?
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Post by martiny on May 7, 2019 12:51:24 GMT
Oh, hai. Like I just posted over on nutz, you're right and you're right.
That does seem to be a Mazdaspeed diff and the stubs won't suit a VLSD.
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Post by ecksjay on May 7, 2019 15:43:25 GMT
from memory, the mazdaspeed diffs were installed to the original housings/shafts, they werent a full replacement with new housing and shafts etc (makes no sense to use entirely custom equipment). This is going from what ive read anyway.
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Post by archmatux on May 7, 2019 21:47:13 GMT
Oh, hai. Like I just posted over on nutz, you're right and you're right. That does seem to be a Mazdaspeed diff and the stubs won't suit a VLSD. Thanks. I've had a conversation with a couple of Mazda specialists who have confirmed I can't re-use the stub shafts. from memory, the mazdaspeed diffs were installed to the original housings/shafts, they werent a full replacement with new housing and shafts etc (makes no sense to use entirely custom equipment). This is going from what ive read anyway. I've found that while the mazdaspeed diffs did use the original housings and half shafts, the stub shafts are different. Another VLSD with the right stub shafts is now on it's way to me I intend to disassemble the old diff during the week to find what went wrong with the idea of a kaaz diff sometime later down the road, maybe in a couple of years before I add FI.
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Post by archmatux on May 12, 2019 17:15:18 GMT
This is getting a bit silly now.
I got everything reassembled and went for a short test drive.
Something is clearly still very wrong and I didn't get the car over 20 before deciding I needed to turn back.
There is a rhythmic noise from the rear end and a clunk when turning.
My suspicion is that the old diff decided to take something else with it and I'm looking at the prop shaft and driveshaft as possible culprits.
I did briefly have the thought "what if it was never the diff", however the colour of the oil that came out of it would suggest otherwise (nice metal sheen).
With the car jacked up I've given both wheels a good shake and there isn't any play that would suggest a wheel bearing or bush, at least not that I can tell.
If it's a CV joint then I'm in for a world of hurt as I wasn't able to remove the axles when replacing the diff and suspect a hydraulic press would be required.
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Post by wannabe on May 12, 2019 21:55:21 GMT
Just to eliminate the simple things, the rear wheels were definitely on properly and the nuts tight?
IIRC the diff being out of alignment can create issues, but that's all I can remember right now!
Hope you can get it sorted!
EDIT: Ok, now I've watched the video - the wheels comment is irrelevant!
Could it be wheel bearings?
Are the studs in too far and rubbing on something behind the disc?
It sounds like something is loose or rubbing!
You could do the screwdriver trick - put the pointy end on various parts and then put the handle on/in your ear. I'm not quite sure how it works but I presume that the source of the noise would be louder than other parts nearby??
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Post by archmatux on May 12, 2019 22:11:37 GMT
Just to eliminate the simple things, the rear wheels were definitely on properly and the nuts tight? IIRC the diff being out of alignment can create issues, but that's all I can remember right now! Hope you can get it sorted! EDIT: Ok, now I've watched the video - the wheels comment is irrelevant! Could it be wheel bearings? Are the studs in too far and rubbing on something behind the disc? It sounds like something is loose or rubbing! You could do the screwdriver trick - put the pointy end on various parts and then put the handle on/in your ear. I'm not quite sure how it works but I presume that the source of the noise would be louder than other parts nearby?? Ha, my first thought was the wheel nuts. I re-torqued them to 103nm to be safe but all of them were correct. I've pulled it all apart. The lower control arm bolt was nightmarish but I got it in the end. It'll need replacing as it had started to change colour by the time I got it out. Right now I strongly suspect that the culprit is the CV joint in the axle - at least that's where the sound appeared to be coming from. There is no directional play in the hub so I don't think it's the wheel bearing but it's possible. In any case the assembly will need to come apart and right now the axle is seized in the hub. I've read horror stories of people mushrooming the end of the axle using sledge hammers and others needing to use 20ton presses to remove them. I'm half inclined just to get a replacement knuckle/hub/bearing assembly and a replacement axle and save myself the grief. EDIT: I guess I could always drill out the end of the axle and try to save the knuckle.
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Post by wannabe on May 13, 2019 10:11:35 GMT
That seems like a lot of hard work if you're just working at home... lol I'd be pricing up replacement parts!
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Post by Zed. on May 13, 2019 11:38:38 GMT
the 'inner' driveshaft CV joints can seperate, possibly one of the 'balls' has dropped from it's 'cage' when you had the diff out? easily checked by grabbing & squeezing the gaiter to feel for a spare ball-bearing (about 5/8" or 16mm dia) or removing the disc-plug on the diff end (between the boltholes) & look for anything 'spare' I've a few spare shafts / hubs etc. located near Swansea if you are local? Rich.
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Post by archmatux on May 13, 2019 21:48:31 GMT
That seems like a lot of hard work if you're just working at home... lol I'd be pricing up replacement parts! Yeah..... I had a go at it this evening. Replacement parts are now on the way the 'inner' driveshaft CV joints can seperate, possibly one of the 'balls' has dropped from it's 'cage' when you had the diff out? easily checked by grabbing & squeezing the gaiter to feel for a spare ball-bearing (about 5/8" or 16mm dia) or removing the disc-plug on the diff end (between the boltholes) & look for anything 'spare' I've a few spare shafts / hubs etc. located near Swansea if you are local? Rich. I couldn't feel anything in the gaiters but pulled them back anyway to take a look. In the assembly at the hub end there are shiny spots at regular intervals around the bearing retainer - looks very much like metal on metal rubbing. All the ball bearings appeared to be intact, no chips etc... but I suspect the parts have simply worn down. I'm nowhere near Swansea unfortunately but I've managed to track down an entire replacement assembly (upright, hub, bearing, axle etc...) which is now on it's way to me with a few other bits and bobs that could use replacement. A bit of work with a wire wheel and some paint and I'll have it looking practically new and ready to bolt on.
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Post by archmatux on May 19, 2019 15:50:12 GMT
OK, I've fitted the replacement assembly to the passenger side and got everything torqued to spec.
Went for a test drive and everything appeared to be fine.
However, reversing back up the driveway I noticed an odd noise, almost like something is popping/skipping - I really can't tell.
(Sorry for all the cuts, the camera was being operated by someone scared of technology newer than 1980)
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Post by carl4x4 on May 24, 2019 19:54:29 GMT
sounds a lot like the propshaft,either something has dropped down onto it and is rubbing (heatshield perhaps?) or the rear UJ where it goes into the diff is broken. You should be able to tell by the frequency of the knocks, it shouldn't be the driveshafts as they are only going round once a wheel revolution, whereas that noise is more like 5 or 6 times a revolution. If you have a 4.3 diff then it takes 4.3 turns of the shaft for one wheel revolution which would make sense.
I have an old VLSD which was a bit whiny but still worked, plus an old driveshaft (only one) and a spare early 1.6 propshaft in the garage you could try, but I'm guessing you don't live in Berks...
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Post by archmatux on May 24, 2019 21:28:59 GMT
sounds a lot like the propshaft,either something has dropped down onto it and is rubbing (heatshield perhaps?) or the rear UJ where it goes into the diff is broken. You should be able to tell by the frequency of the knocks, it shouldn't be the driveshafts as they are only going round once a wheel revolution, whereas that noise is more like 5 or 6 times a revolution. If you have a 4.3 diff then it takes 4.3 turns of the shaft for one wheel revolution which would make sense. I have an old VLSD which was a bit whiny but still worked, plus an old driveshaft (only one) and a spare early 1.6 propshaft in the garage you could try, but I'm guessing you don't live in Berks... Hiah. Unfortunately I've confirmed that it's not the propshaft and is almost certainly the replacement diff - I've updated my project thread with some further information. It doesn't knock regularly, mostly when cornering and even then not consistently but the car jolts almost like the one wheel has stopped dead for a brief moment. I'm up in the West Midlands so a bit far from Berks unfortunately.
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Post by batou on Dec 5, 2020 18:52:56 GMT
I've got a replacement VLSD ready to go in but I'm assuming I can't use these half shafts. Some google would suggest this might be a mazdaspeed item and there is some mazdaspeed branding on the car but I had assumed it was put there by a previous owner. Any ideas? THREAD BUMP. Okay, need a little help here, I've been trying to figure out what diff I have on my car at the today in case I plan to exchange it in the near future. I simply assumed it was a VLSD, but I've been under the car a lot more recently and something about it doesn't look like the usual VLSD shafts. My stub shafts do not match any of the usual guides on the web, they do not have any ears on the flanges and have completely square edges, the flanges however, look identical to the images I've quoted... Diffential stub shafts - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE6 by batousan, on Flickr Diffential stub shafts - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE6 by batousan, on Flickr Diffential stub shafts - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE6 by batousan, on Flickr Diffential - ユーノス ロードスタ S-SPECIAL NA6CE by batousan, on Flickr Can anyone help suggest if this is the same diff? The car is a 03/1993 Eunos S-Special.
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Post by atlex on Dec 5, 2020 20:36:26 GMT
Need photos from the front of the diff, especially where it touches the drive shaft. That'll be more informative than the shots of the sideshafts. Here's one of mine.. it's a 7" T2. Note the front of the diff for the main drive shaft - it's got a lobed damper thingy,. Some guides.. but without a full set of photos. www.miata.net/garage/diffguide/www.beavismotorsport.com/guides-tech/differential-guide-for-miata-mx5/to quote Beavis.. "The differentials very similar and are interchangeable - provided the associated driveshaft and half shafts are also swapped. So a 1.6 diff needs 1.6 driveshaft and half shafts, and the 1.8 diff can be installed in any NA or NB, even a 1.6 powered car, provided the associated 1.8 driveshaft and half shafts are installed. Note that all the 1.6 diffs came with two piece half shafts, that being a pair of stub shafts in the diff and then half shafts to the hub with a bolted flange to join them together. With the 1.8 diffs, while the half shafts are not the same as the 1.6, they were again two piece until sometime in 1995 at which point Mazda moved to one piece half shafts."
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