ScottyDugg's Eunos (1.8)

So what do you do when everything starts failing, crack on anyway. Little steps, that's how I plan on getting this done. Cars now up in the air, under tray off and what's that leak I see? I think it's power steering fluid, more investigation required.

So, this is what it looked like, a reminder to future me what a working car looks like:
IMG_20220626_164245 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Went to fit up the manifold and the head stud holes required some persuasion to get them to fit correctly, ports lined up fine, but the holes needed some material taken off. Ended up taking the turbo off again to sort this out. Also bent the coolant hardline towards the firewall as per the FM guide and notched the frame rail (will lacquer later):
IMG_20220626_210220 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Once the manifold was back on, re-installed the turbo and the downpipe elbow and fitted it up:
IMG_20220626_230142 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

You can see, that I've not clocked the compressor housing enough, currently the outlet points directly at the coolant pipe, I've since relocked and marked up the new holes needed for the actuator, so I'll get this dropped off over the next couple days, it looks like everything will clear nicely. Although with the compressor clocked to it's final position, everything won't slide on without tilting the engine towards the drivers side.
IMG_20220626_230149 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Quick plan view of the assembly (pre-re-clocking), you can see how close the heater matrix hoses and passenger front brake line are to the hot stuff, I had bought some 30mm heat sleeve for the heater hoses, but I think it'll need 35mm to get round the bends. Going to try bend the brake line towards the fire wall and get some heat sleeve for it.
IMG_20220626_230323 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

The only real concern I've got left is the downpipe itself, I've not been able to test fit, the only saving grace being I run a decat currently, so if I need a different length to match up it's not going to break the bank. I just hope the downpipe elbow and downpipe meet up at the correct angle!

Plan is to strip the front bumper off, then drill the pan next, or mock up the turbo assembly without the compressor housing and try out the downpipe.

As a reminder for myself, I've also got to:
- Replace Drivers front caliper.
- Replace front discs.
- Replace diff oil and check PPF alignment.
- Check-over steering rack.

Collected these last night for replacing the HSD's, MeisterR Clubrace, just need to get an adjustment spanner. They're in really good condition, 2 years old and only usef predominantly for 4 track days, all the collars are loose. Not sure if I'll get coilover socks yet.
2022-06-30_09-09-37 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Get the socks, blast them with ACF50, Put the socks on, and enjoy.

<B Meisters.

I'm glad I can run them here but would love to be able to run them on my MR2 also. I'll probably got with a TUV option tho.

Spent 2 hours changing over the discs and pads on the wife's car, so since I was on a roll, thought I'd spend some time on the Mazda.

I've mocked up the intercooler in position, I've had to remove the return edges and stud that would have held the A/C condenser coil, but that's no issue as it's long gone. The air guide needs a bit of trimming but nothing major, the tray that sit's under the engine will need a bit more surgery to clear pipework though. I think it's sitting pretty centrally, my aftermarket horn doesn't clear now though so that'll need some investigation. Not sure if I'll put the 2 bolts through the guide into the bottom of the intercooler like some folk do yet or not, I'll see how solid it is with the pipework in position.
IMG_20220703_180522 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Now here's the bit that might cause some consternation, I thought everything's going so well let's just keep going, next thing I know I've drilled a hole in the pan. Everything you read says "oh it wasn't so bad", "it was easy", "what metal shavings!". I did not enjoy this one bit, now I know in an ideal world you'd remove the engine to do this, but I neither had the space or the required equipment for pulling an engine - which made the potential for disaster all the more anxiety inducing. Anyway it's done, I cleaned and re-greased the drill bit/tap more than I probably needed to, but better to err on the side of caution. I've still to drain the oil and flush everything through with white spirit, but I was going to hold off on that and send some snow foam down the bores to clean the piston rings.
IMG_20220703_171420 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Fitting in place with some JB-Weld for good measure, it's solid and seems in a good position for clearing the steering rack lines. I know FM say to drill 2 inches down, but that's more for those with A/C to contend with, so it's roughly 45mm down.

IMG_20220703_172913 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

I'm waiting on the turbo compressor cover being re-drilled, before I can fit up the turbo, so I'll crack on with the intercooler for now and swap the bumper over. If it's still not back by the time all that's done I'll get the Meister's fitted up.

Only unknown at the minute is how the downpipe will fit up with everything.

Bolts arrived so I've managed some more time on the car, looks like I'm missing this heat wave as well

Finished up the front brakes then set about fitting the Clubrace, so far I've only done the fronts, but setup to the rears now.

For reference here's what came out, they've done well but I think they were knackered when I got the car, I've never been sure on spring rates but I'm fairly certain it's the stiffer setup. Fine on a fair to good road surface, horrible on anything undulating, pockmarked, pot-holed (i.e. most UK roads), adding to that that the height adjustment was seized and 1 had lost all its suspension juice.
IMG_20220708_211905 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Replaced with:
2022-07-13_09-20-59 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

You can see the sheen from liberal doses of ACF50, going to get some coilover socks as well, but I keep forgetting to measure what size I need.
Also trying to get a hold of this back box that's for sale near my parents, love a centre exit, so hopefully that works out.
FB_IMG_1657922256488 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Supermiata engine mounts arrived thanks to thruxton (thanks again!), passenger side was easy with everything already removed and out the way. Drivers side was a bit more of a chew, although it was harder to get the old mount out than the new in. For the new mount it was just a case of assembling in position, it'd be easier for the US guys as they don't have to contend with a steering rack.
IMG_20220717_113545 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

You can't get it from the top:
IMG_20220717_110614 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

I've measured all my ride heights, I'm slightly too high on the front by about 0.25" (I think), I should be able to get it closer on the rear once I swap them over, hopefully able to get it close so I don't need an alignment straight away, to allow it to be tuned.

I've ordered the majority of things I need to get first start-up: New Slave Cylinder, Engine Oil (5W30), Engine Filter, Diff Oil.

Still to get: EBC unit, Coilover socks.

My heat sleeve for the heater core hoses, did fit at 35mm dia. but looked absolutely rubbish (no photos), so I think I'm going to fit up some of the gold tape I've bought as a short term solution. I think I'm going to try and heat shield the whole area where the washer bottle was located or just get a turbo blanket, try protect it from some of the heat the turbo will produce, also a plan to fab up an air box for the intake eventually.

Lots to do!

Yeah it wasn't the easiest, one of the guides I read online said getting the bolts back in the block would be the worst bit, getting the actual thing in position and built up one handed was by far the worst bit!

How do you find yours now you've fitted them? It'll be a while before I can drive it again.

Another Monday another update, I've tentatively booked the tuner for his next trip onshore so I've got a deadline now.

So with the engine mounts swapped over, I was ready to fit the turbo assembly, so fitted up the turbo oil feed, which came from black cat a nd is fed off the side of the block, added some of the orange heat shielding to tie in with everything else.
IMG_20220722_212942 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Compressor housing came back re-drilled, once it was fitted up I couldn't get the assembly on the engine anymore, so needed to tilt the engine over, needed clocking a little more to line up with the intercooler pipework but that was fine as it lined the actuator up better. Something they miss in the FM YouTube instruction video, the central nut on the manifold, I could only get it to tighten with the rest of the nuts on but not threaded and with a flare nut spanner, 1/8th of a turn at a time.
IMG_20220724_151950 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

I've fitted and routed both water lines, connected up the intercooler pipework both sides, connected the turbo oil drain (needed trimmed to length in the car), turbo oil feed will be tested cranking into a bag to prove oil does come out. Still need to cable tie the water lines up out of the way:

IMG_20220724_142814 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

No pictures yet, but I started mocking up the downpipe, I've been worried it'd not fit for a while, but early testing seems to show it should, now whether it lines up with the decat is another thing, as I couldn't get it on without removing the decat. there is a slip joint flexi on there, so hopefully I've some level of adjustment, as it's the longest cat length I have on there already.

Looking how close the downpipe elbow is to both the passenger front brake line and heater matrix hoses, I think I'll try mock something up initially, before going with some proper heat shielding. They're pretty close, but it seems as though some folk just cable tie the brake line a little further out the way and be done with it.

Just ordered up the a MAC EBC unit and a 76mm ID Ramair Proram filter, which seems to be on par with what the FM kit supplies, just need a 90 degree elbow to fit up to the turbo.

I've also bought some 5w30 Millers oil, I always seemed to run higher oil pressure on the 5W40, but since I likely won't see 30deg. ambient (which going by searches is where they recommend 5w40), I'll try 5W30 this time, worst case I change back and use this as an oil flush, but I'm open to opinions. As an addition, it always seemed to run slightly higher after swapping to the BP4W head.

I've still to fit the Meisterr's on the rear, but have removed the HSD's, a year ago I rust converted and applied Waxoyl, looking at how it's faired I won't be using it again, absolutely rubbish - flaking off and surface corrosion underneath - almost as if it promotes corrosion! I'll use POR15 next time round.

Anyway, enough rambling for today.