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Post by dadbif on Jan 23, 2018 21:40:13 GMT
I always thought Fram filters were the best. Apparently not
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khare
Chats A Bit
Posts: 248
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Post by khare on Jan 23, 2018 22:01:11 GMT
I've always used K&N oil filters.
Yes they're expensive but there anti drain valve is good and the filter itself if very advanced when compared to others. There's plenty of videos online showing this.
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Post by atlex on Jan 24, 2018 13:33:43 GMT
Standard Wix and Fram are definitely junk :-) I can recommend OEM (Mazda, Toyota, etc... ), Mann or Mahle (German, who are often OEM manufacturers anyway - MAKE SURE THEY ARE MADE IN Austria/Germany!!! 2021 update - Mahle are selling Chinese filters now ). Opie for instance *only* sell Mahle, from what I can tell. FWIW the black mazda ones are made in japan by ROKI, and I think the white mazda are made in MURIKA or elsewhere in the west. Both are good or Mazda wouldn't sell them .... but, I've looked in the white American ones and I don't like them. the black rokis seem to be better made tho.. . Just change every year or 5-10K miles. Piotr Tester is doing some analysis of 10 filters he has access to. Should be interesting when it comes to testing the actual filtering ability. Currently he's just taken measurements
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Post by Horney on Jan 24, 2018 13:55:18 GMT
This is all genuinely interesting.
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Post by atlex on Jan 24, 2018 14:06:10 GMT
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 25, 2018 11:16:49 GMT
I’ve used Wix for years in my TVR, it only does max 3000 miles between changes, sometimes a lot less.
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Post by wannabe on Jan 25, 2018 15:42:03 GMT
OEM filters are only about a tenner, aren't they?
That should surely be classed as 'affordable' for all bar the person running a car on an absolutely minimal budget!
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Post by dadbif on Jan 26, 2018 8:08:59 GMT
But are OEM best, what we really need is a definitive test showing flow rate using the recommended oil and the ability to filter contaminants. Perhaps weighing the filter before test and then after with the same contaminated oil, the heavier the filter after the test the more dirt it has removed. However that may be difficult because each filter would retain differing quantities of oil... Perhaps look at the oil in a clear hat after filtration.
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Post by apextwin on Jan 26, 2018 8:43:08 GMT
Best thing about the K+N ones is the nut on the end of them - making them less of a canoe to remove in a cramped mk1 engine bay!
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Post by dadbif on Jan 26, 2018 15:59:34 GMT
“for clear hat” read “jar”
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Post by atlex on Jan 26, 2018 16:58:31 GMT
But are OEM best, what we really need is a definitive test showing flow rate using the recommended oil and the ability to filter contaminants. Perhaps weighing the filter before test and then after with the same contaminated oil, the heavier the filter after the test the more dirt it has removed. However that may be difficult because each filter would retain differing quantities of oil... Perhaps look at the oil in a clear hat after filtration. Kinda hoping we get some "real life" testing to see realistic results. If you look at what comes through vs what goes in. "Known Input" + "Measure the Output" - in this case, making a consistent "oil slurry" to feed in and seeing just how good it is coming out, and the pressure drop before and after.. and flow if you can measure that. I suspect that polish chap will do something like that but I'm not sure what rig he'll build. I might send him a mazda oem jobby if he's interested.
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Post by atlex on Feb 19, 2018 19:07:04 GMT
Turns out the White Mazda ones are Purolators and not as good as the Black Mazda ones which are Tokyo Roki. Moss sell the white ones, and I've opened one up to look around it isn't that good - crappy metal backing "spring" rather than an actual spring, etc. "flat" style O ring, etc.
Notice that Opie only sell Mahle.
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Post by atlex on Feb 20, 2018 18:16:21 GMT
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Post by myothercarsa2cv on Feb 22, 2018 12:22:22 GMT
I’ve just put an HKS on the Stagea. Because it’s super. Everything about it is super. See?
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Post by atlex on Feb 22, 2018 12:25:05 GMT
the sad thing with magnets is that they *only* capture magnetisable particles, which your bearings and pistons are not made of.
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