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Post by Zed. on Feb 11, 2021 15:41:02 GMT
tried the can on the car, any excuse for a photo(rofl)  ballancing on the screenwash reservoir's plinth.  it fits.   the unseen area around the heater air intake.  happy that theres no rust visable.  where I'm hoping to have the oiltank's filler & breather outlet to the 'can .  this trim is a pain-in-the- arse to remove as theres 4 screws 'hidden' under the plastic windscreen lower trim... now I can strip the wipermotor from the car & investigate re-positioning on the drivers side - hopefully the linkage will play.... Rich. |
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Post by scottydugg on Feb 11, 2021 17:19:09 GMT
I've got one bolt holding that plastic trim on  Mocal tank sits in there very nicely. |
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Post by Zed. on Feb 11, 2021 17:59:18 GMT
I've got one bolt holding that plastic trim on I've gone for the 'Lightwieght-Racing' method.... gravity  when the oiltank is fitted (eventually!) I'm going to have a cover over the area but unsure as to what material, probably thin aluminium sheet bit anything is possible... as to the catchcan, I'd thought / measured & guessed lots about it's suitability, then Google supplied images  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Feb 12, 2021 13:49:32 GMT
silencer has landed...  was advertised as for a Mini (proper one not that modern junk) so I gambled it would be a suitable size.  compared to the one I already have, the rusty one is actually solid but looks like it's from the RMS Titanic they're similar sized but the 'mini' one is slightly narrower & not as tall while being slightly longer.  size difference, the flange was for something but I'll be removing both entry & exit pipes to weld a bend close to the silencer.  dismantlable & re-packable, usefull in competition vehicles!  2 1/2" bore straight-through...  the removable end-cap. a simple but effective design. I'm going to remove the cobalt silencer from the silver car to compare & decide on the best compromise design to fit this onto the car... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Feb 14, 2021 13:39:59 GMT
another tangent, this time towards the white 1990 Eunos... earlier cars didn't have the interior boot unlock handle so being lazy I've found a later (post '91??) lock mecanism & cable setup to retrofit.  top latch has the cable reciever that's missing on earlier latches. a cheap & chearfull mod but looses the anti-theft security that just a key-lock has. Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Feb 16, 2021 15:41:58 GMT
Repost of info, came up in another discussion about valve stem diameter so saving here...  have a copy of Mazda's workshop manual for the 323 1.6L Turbo 4x4 etc.  B6T engine, predessesor of the Mx5's B6ZE(RS) engine..  I've photographed these 2 pages as theres good info   so ~6mm stem Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Feb 17, 2021 22:31:24 GMT
My Autodata is a bit too early, 1983, and doesn’t give valve stem dia anyway.
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Post by Zed. on Feb 22, 2021 11:09:42 GMT
Back onto overcomplicating a simple car, ebay again & bought some secondhand 'poly-vee' type pulleys that were made for a Ford 'pinto' or Cosworth 'YB' engine. the crankshaft pulley is same as the one I've modified for the Mazda crank and the other 2 suit waterpump & alternator, as I've already modified a crank pulley I can now match the others so rotational speeds are not silly as having a small crank 'drive' pulley on a large 'driven' waterpump pulley (as if I'd used Mazda's standard pulley would be) and the waterpump would run slowly - good for high revs but not great for the ~75% of other driving....  Ford-fit crank pulley with it's drive-adapter sleeve.  waterpump & alternator pulleys, Mazda's pump has 3 bolts so it might not allow re-drilling without using 'tophat' sleeves for the bolting:-S adapt, overcome & usually spend too much money on ideas Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Feb 23, 2021 17:45:32 GMT
more spending...... not ebay this time though  ok, so maybe I've bought more on ebay, another drysump tank to alter & make a more Mx5 specific item by hybridising with one of the other Pace tanks but that's another story.....  made by Pace (again? I seem to be a fan....) to fit a Lotus Elise / Exige or 2-Eleven, I like the fact it's an angled base so can (hopefully??) fit where the standard ecu would be and the sloped base let it fit against the bulkhead. then I'm thinking of welding one of the tall / tubular tanks on like a chimney to run up the bulkhead & poke up out of the heater's fresh air inlet... ^^Hope this is understandable. more to come when it's delivered... anyway.... Supermiata in the US have a 280mm brake kit with ND discs & Wilwood Dynalite calipers, I had already bought ND 280mm discs by coincidence and have calipers of the suitable size so it's saving me time & effort to buy their shiney 'Boxmount' bracket kit  prior to seeing these I'd already mocked up a bracket but I've been caught by Magpie-itus (they're shiney!)  ^^ is that disc on the wrong side?  . anyway, it's just for demonstration purposes so.... supermiata.com/Supermiata-boxmount-brackets.aspxbuying from the USA has it's pro's & cons, Pound vs. Dollar is not bad but it will cost a chunk for shipping & I'm expecting import duty / vat & Parcelfarce all having their 2p worth on top but it's done now Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Feb 23, 2021 20:36:53 GMT
that ND rotor solution does look rather good!
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 23, 2021 20:51:22 GMT
Good timing on the dollar exchange rate.
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Post by Zed. on Feb 23, 2021 22:24:13 GMT
that ND rotor solution does look rather good! I hope so, oem fit discs so no re-drilling or spiggot-rings to centralise discs on the hubs and replacement / aftermarket discs are cheap  Good timing on the dollar exchange rate. $150 = £105 so not too bad, was ~ $2 for £1 about 14 years ago theres more I want to buy from Supermiata but I'm going to use this purchase to find out post & import costs - also need to get some more pennies in the piggybank Rich. |
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Post by howardb66 on Feb 24, 2021 20:00:48 GMT
Something i fell foul off a few years ago with my Griffith when going from 2 pot to 4 pot- the hydraulic volume in the 4 pots is significantly higher therefore a balance valve is essential otherwise the results of rears locking 1st is flipping dangerous.
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Post by Zed. on Feb 24, 2021 20:36:22 GMT
Something i fell foul off a few years ago with my Griffith when going from 2 pot to 4 pot- the hydraulic volume in the 4 pots is significantly higher therefore a balance valve is essential otherwise the results of rears locking 1st is flipping dangerous. good point about different cylinder volumes but that really applies to standard mastercylinders with different calipers.... I've already built the workings to counter it  bit of a bias-adjustable twin-cylinder pedalbox thing going on...  the 'busness' end okey, it's the first 'build' so things will change and I'm guessing some strengthening of the pedalbox itself  I've spent a lot of time trying to decide on the pipe routing, using braided flexable hose so shiny but doesn't have the tight-radius bends that solid metal pipe. the exhaust side is the biggest problem, I refuse to follow the dreadfull routing that Mazda used around the chassis to connect to the 'flexi' - looking at running through the wheelarch tub by the damper topmount.... Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Feb 25, 2021 12:17:53 GMT
second attempt after deleting a long post  Supermiata have shipped the 'Boxmount' brackets Shippingby FedEx International Economy is $72.00 so ~£52, added to the ~£105 of the brackets this is not breaking the bank (although I'm expecting ~£30-50 import duty / vat etc. so total around £200. definately easier than designing & making my own & also nicer to look at (will anyone ever see them???) back onto oil & coolant plumbing... I'm going to plumb the Laminova cooler into the heater system, this allows constant flow without the thermostat's interfearence, also allows the unit to be mounted nearer the bulkhead as opposed to near the rad... I've got a £140 shopping-basket with speedflow (again!) but this includes a new body for the Laminova with offset oil ports as opposed to the central ports I've already got (£35 so not expensive). also looking at Aeroquip '400 series' -10 hose (16mm id) for the heater pipework due to it's suitable size, strengths & also comparable cost per metre with normal rubber hose.  offset oil ports would make for easier / neater install.... also been considering remote thermostats, amongst other benefits these suffer less with heatsoak as not solidly mounted to the (hot) engine and theres several cars with not just the main feed & return hose stubs but also heater-bypass outputs, this starts to look usefull with the Laminova plumbing..... as with remote thermostats the next thought is a coolant reroute.... I'm not convinced these engines need a reroute ( Emperror's new clothes spring to mind?) but some thought with headgasket coolant ports could make a significantly cheaper difference I've seen a lot of competition engines from recognised builders that have some coolant pathways blocked & others enlarged or new drilled to direct flow better (remember manufacturers design for ALL posibilities so generall cooling) so this has taken my intrest on the B6 engine... BUT if I use a remote thermostat then it'll be easy to use the rear of the cylinderhead for the top coolant hose feed - although this then adds more hoses around the exhaust manifold   I've NOT forgotten this bit!  Mazda 323 Turbo (pre GTX) thermostat housing, also allows temperature sender?  another viwe of the 323's thermostat housing, this is on a standard thickness B6 cylinderhead. and it's close to the gearboxes bellhousing I wonder if people with heavily skimmed heads find clearance issues? also, theres a coolant pipe-stub that is blanked in Mx5's (Devil plug!) so I'm going to remove it & either blank or repurpose for a temp-sender, unsure yet.... more waffle to come... Rich. |
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. anyway, it's just for demonstration purposes so....
le sigh