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Post by Zed. on Aug 4, 2018 14:51:15 GMT
I expect a different tone of post when I attempt to put it back in, heh.
So, the back of the clutch dingle is leaking, I wonder how I address that. I don't appear to have a lower clutch switch so how am i supposed to do launch control? I found a grommit in the side of the tunnel on the passenger side which seems to be open, i wonder if that's where all the water in the footwell originated... ho hum, I will keep looking for evidence of water staining as i continue to try and make my car water resistant.
replacing the dash is easy, well, I've done mine a few times as I've converted BACK from mk2 to the origonal type for my car  whats this 'dingle' ?? if its the master-cylinder then its an easy fix with new cylinders being cheap & with the dash removed, easy to acces s the clevis on the pedal.. the gormet on the pass-side of the tunnel, iirc, thats for the ac unit to drain, did your car have ac thats been deleted? while youve got the dash out, remove the heaterbox & check the copper pipes that crossover between the heater & bulkhead and theil short rubber link pipes, now is the time with easy access  also, inspect the pedalbox for cracking, on my car the throttle-pedal was about to drop off when I went to buy it (actually did completely fail after I'd got home!) - again, easy to access without the dashboard fitted (but not too hard otherwise) Rich. |
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cat
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Post by cat on Aug 4, 2018 16:16:22 GMT
Cheers for all that advice, Rich. Genuinely appreciate it because I'm currently at the limit of my research.
I'll grab a new master-cylinder, that doesn't seem too problematic, and I've a HBoL somewhere around here.
What the community could really help me with though is HOW to remove the heater box... I want to get the carpet out and try and destink it, all the foam in this car is now powder so new underlay of some kind may happen or not (race car?)
the AC was semi deleted, which may have been the whole thing then...
the compressor was still in there being HEAVY
The condenser was still in there which may have been doing some collecting of water somehow even depressurised?
So since getting the car I've pulled both those bits out, but there never was a hose on the condenser... i should have thought that wouldn't matter because there was no air con fluid in the system, but ...
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cat
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Post by cat on Aug 4, 2018 16:59:16 GMT
Hmm, £80 for a master cylinder from mx5parts, or £40 for a pattern part from Moss... makes a rebuild kit seem a bit tempting :/
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Post by cat on Aug 4, 2018 17:19:06 GMT
So I've been trying to work towards a bit of 'de-stinking' my car, it's as old as any of these cars and many happy owners have surely picked their noses and farted in it. Getting the carpet out and pressure washed will be the main victory in this regard, I'm sure.
But also vile dribblings and dead pidgeons in the air blowy malarky are a decent route to a less than glamorous ride.
Whilst the dash was out I figured I'd pull the blower assy and have a rummage in it....
Having said in an earlier post that all the foam had turned to powder, at that time I mostly meant the foam on the various under dash connectors, presumably to stop them rattling on stuff. The foam inside the inside/outside air source selector was also zombie... and after a quick punch of compressed air I ended up here.
So I think I need a bit of closed cell foam and some of the other half's spray adhesive to fresh that selector plate.
The sandwich plate is currently bathing in dinitrol, having been smashed with a wire wheel in a drill, and will get a coat of paint once that's set.
I've wiped it all down with a kills 99% of everything rag and hopefully when reassembled should beam nicer smells (paint and glue fumes) into the rest of the blower system... can but hope.
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cat
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Post by cat on Aug 4, 2018 20:34:04 GMT
Leds gone into the heater controls, lets hope they last the life of the car 'cause one of the bulbs was dead. I think they're in the right way round, bit of a pig if they're not  |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 4, 2018 21:43:31 GMT
HOW to remove the heater box chainsaw or Dynamite work well... or, remove the rubber heater-hoses from the bulkhead pipes (under bonnet on the bulkhead), remove 3 x 10mm nuts 9iirc there are 3??) & lift out he heaterbox..... hopefully...... then look at the degraded foam 'flaps' & inspect the copper pipes that run around the 'box.. poundshops sell door-draft excluder self adhesive foam strip stuff, works wonders to replace the doomed seal between the heater blower assembly & the bulkhead, also can be forced to seal the link-pipe from the blower to the heaterbox I completely removed all the soundproofing & water-absorbant wadding on the floor, tunnel & bulkhead, I have no intention of replacing it as my car is for fun Rich. |
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Post by cat on Aug 5, 2018 12:33:50 GMT
I got the side cover off the matrix enough to see that it was a crystal forest in there, my matrix is obviously toast. Booooo. I guess I need to find a mk2 matrix to swap in? The design of that heater box is 'fecking stupid' looping the hardlines behind it, and pinning the covers in with the actuators is damn daft, unless it splits down the middle which I haven't fully explored. It looks like the LHD units load from the left rather from the right. Baffled. In other news, the carpet's out, so I'll have to track down some shampoo, a good brush and haul the pressure washer out of the back of the garage... I don't think this car is going to be driving anywhere for a few weeks anyway.  |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 5, 2018 12:57:34 GMT
mk2 heaterbox & also mk2 carpet? iirc, the mk2 has a better carpet, possibly 'deeper'  they are based on a mk1... you can drive it without carpet & heater (although refitting the dashbaord might help.....) Rich. |
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Post by cat on Aug 5, 2018 15:46:41 GMT
drip drip drip  So I recant a little, it does seem that it's *possible* to get the core out even without removing the dash, but wow you'd need to be well trained. This is what we look like inside:  But thinking on, even though there was a dribble heading a bit towards the driver's side, how would liquid from this, which would exit at the driver's side pool in the passenger footwell and *not* the drivers? So maybe it is crusty, but is it leaking badly enough to shed a tear... If I get hold of some hose pliars, I'll try and get the core out and see if I can flush it and see if I can locate any leaks, maybe I could get it braised :/ £85 for an ebay aftermarket matrix and who knows what providence that would have. |
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Post by cat on Aug 6, 2018 17:32:30 GMT
a couple of jobs further ruining the car and making it less likely to ever drive again, I have stuck a grommit in the drain hole for the missing AC condensor. The car's been sitting with no interior and it has rained and there's no water inside, so that seems positive. I've pulled out the heater matrix, and rigged up a novelty flush mechanism like so:
I then rinsed it with actual coolant so hopefully it doesn't instantly rust.
It doesn't look in bad shape as it goes maybe it all just needs a good clean? the suspect bit is round about here:
I'm wondering if there;s anything i can do to test this unit. It's currently sitting in the garage, tubes down, drying out.
oh, ps, I got quoted £750 for Rota Slipstreams, Toyo tyres of some kind, fitted and set up and whatnot, 15, 7, 40 and 195/50/whatever dunno if that's a decent deal. it's over £500 to get the wheels from anywhere anyway.
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Post by cat on Aug 7, 2018 14:11:12 GMT
So over lunch I got a plastic container full of water, whacked a couple of hoses on the matrix shoved it under the water and blew about 2 bar or air into it... there was the *Slightest* trickle of bubbles from the joint between the tanks.
I'm thinking maybe sand paper around the area and slather some JB weld on and see how we go.
What thoughts?
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tb63
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Post by tb63 on Aug 7, 2018 17:06:21 GMT
Clean it well, really well, flux, solder blowtorch. It's how it was made and easy to get right on a seam like that..
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Post by cat on Aug 7, 2018 17:08:50 GMT
please don't be shy of chipping in on this thread, I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts or scorn about what I'm doing. The latest installment is that I chiselled away the padding around the bubbly area, give it a wee scrub so it was shiny and bunged it back in the bath at 2bar. I was rewarde with a string of microbubbles coming from the shoulder of one of the end tanks. So I dried it off, scrubbed it with sandpaper, washed it in alcomahol till the paper towel came back shiny and did this: I theorise I'm saving myself £100 of aftermarket exchanger, but costing myself £5 in new padding materials. JB Weld isn't keen on staying in the tubes either... leaky crap.
The question is am I being a silly billy and should I just close my eyes, pray the aftermarket doodle would be the right size and pay for it, or is there a decent chance that this will cure the ills.
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Post by andy0306 on Aug 7, 2018 18:53:02 GMT
please don't be shy of chipping in on this thread, I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts or scorn about what I'm doing.
I followed your progress on Nutz and am glad you are continuing here. Can't offer much technical help, but enjoy your ramblings |
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Post by Zed. on Aug 7, 2018 19:18:26 GMT
So over lunch I got a plastic container full of water, whacked a couple of hoses on the matrix shoved it under the water and blew about 2 bar or air into it... there was the *Slightest* trickle of bubbles from the joint between the tanks. I'm thinking maybe sand paper around the area and slather some JB weld on and see how we go. What thoughts? *about* 2 bar? excuse my possible cynacism but how did you find such pressure? (please exclude the idiot question, 2 bar is about twice the coolant system's working pressure) as to repair, I'd re-solder as previously suggested by tb63 (or take it to a local plumber for them to do their thing?) - chemical-mental & Epoxee are temp bodges that *Might* last OR leak when you least want it to  Rich. |
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le sigh