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Post by atlex on Jul 13, 2018 16:28:33 GMT
leave the wastegate disconnected from the actuator. it'll flap about but you won't make a lot of boost even if you try to. I'm using a pierburg VW and it's good too  |
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cat
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Post by cat on Jul 13, 2018 17:16:00 GMT
Ordered a boost solenoid. Changed the bulb in the console so the tiny wee green doodle where I keep my Yen lights up when the lights come on. Put the cover back on the thing because it's spitting and I put a hose on the hood and the rain rail leaks instantly, the Canoeer. So I guess we're back to THAT dance... trying to keep the bilges dry.
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cat
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Post by cat on Jul 13, 2018 17:18:16 GMT
leave the wastegate disconnected from the actuator. it'll flap about but you won't make a lot of boost even if you try to. I'm using a pierburg VW and it's good too It's a pierburg PA6-GF30 that I've ordered. I'm not up for disconnecting the actuator because then I'd have no boost at all and where's the fun in that? I'm getting a peak of about 1bar currently I think.
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cat
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Post by cat on Jul 15, 2018 15:15:39 GMT
So only a couple of things today because I had a vacuum cleaner to repair (flex had done a wire fail, so found that and re-terminated it... obv total dismantlement of device required to access death wires) I pulled out the washer bottle, because my new tin one is due to arrive tomorrow. I should figure out which jets I need to get for modern sprayness since all the hoses need rejigging. The rubber doodle that attaches the pump to the bottle is perished so something will need to be arranged there (ninja edit, I've ordered a new pump), and best of all I found the following living in there:  That's the drama, but before I found that horror I turned this:  into this:  Which after another coat of that will probably spray back to factory blue. Need to make a wee loom extension to get the washer pump power over to the other side of the bay. Seems like most mods involve moving a feed from one side to the other. MAP, AIT, Washer pump, boost solenoid etc. |
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Post by Whistler on Jul 15, 2018 16:56:13 GMT
I found the following living in there: Holy f@ck. What is that?? |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 15, 2018 17:07:15 GMT
I found the following living in there: Holy f@ck. What is that?? Tapeworm  Rich. |
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Post by cat on Jul 15, 2018 21:32:56 GMT
It's either the sac a xenomorph comes out of, or more accurately it's one of the phases that algae can be in, they're actually weirdly interesting things. They swim around in single numbers and clump places which when advantageous they thrive and numbers increase... when they hit a certain concentration of units, the concentration of some chemical they all make reaches a threshold and they suddenly decide to act together and become this film stuff... they sort of make themselves into a collective 'skin' which is really really hard to get rid of... that's what I think that is. I think most screenwashes have some kind of anti microbial agent in them, but evidently my car had been sitting long enough with maybe too much water and not enough antifreeze and the little buggers had decided it was a nice place to live. I nearly threw up when I saw that thing crawl out of the tank. I'm probably going to fill it with bleach and then microwave it  |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 15, 2018 21:50:50 GMT
I'm probably going to fill it with bleach and then microwave it Watched The Thing?
 actually one of my favourite films but nothing to do with cars.......... except what lives in screenwash reservoirs  Rich. |
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Post by niklas on Jul 15, 2018 22:13:40 GMT
A good mac valve will be open to wg when plumbed correctly, with rising boost duty its venting more to air. No risk of blowing everything up if it fails. chill out.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 16, 2018 12:24:22 GMT
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cat
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Post by cat on Jul 20, 2018 19:40:48 GMT
Been a bit of a quiet couple of days car wise, because I got poorly sick and had to sit around watching youtube and online shopping. This turned up:  but obviously doesn't fit, in that if you bolt it on with that bolt on the wing, the top is in the way of the lid shutting. I think I'm going to opt for double sided taping it to the scuttle business. Then I have to decide what to do about the fact that it airlocks if the lid is screwed on. I imagine the sensiblest thing to do is find my smallest drill and make a slender hole through the lid, tastefully offset.
Anyway, that's in the car even though it will rattle around if I drive anywhere.
Other things have turned up, missing battery bracketery in the form of the bits that screw into the boot floor to stop the battery tray escaping and I'm hoping the holes are in good enough shape to take bolts. I have yet to score a larger tray or clamp as yet, but my mission is to have a battery that isn't tie wrapped to the sodding side of the car, spilling acid over the carpet.
I got a couple of battery vent connector doodles, but they're too small and will need padding out with ptfe I imagine. Some hose will go on there and down to the vent hole in the floor. I don't fancy all that rust coming back, and in that vein I chucked a bit more rust converter into the battery space which I intend to paint over with some blue tomorrow.
My boost solenoid arrived, and I've ordered the connector for it, but I'm not sure what connector type is on the purge solenoid, I was hoping to be able to make a conversion cable to go from that socket to the boost solenoid so I could preserve my original wiring intact... if you happen to know what that bugger is called, pls let me know!
I've ordered a secret thing I'm not going to tell you about, which I hope is going to interface with the secret thing I've been building which I *hope* will add a secret feature to my car which might make some people jealous. Don't hold your breath though, I'm not very good at doing things which aren't things that someone else wrote a guide for. If it works, I'll write a guide because I think it will be spiffy.
Other than that I'm a bit anxious about what I can expect from a rolling road tuner... I'm half expecting to have booked in and turn up and them tell me my car isn't in good enough electrical shape to tune... I'm pretty sure my O2 sensor is working and I don't have any boost leaks, but how would I really know.. (without forking out for a boost leak testing kit? ) Do tuners expect idiots to turn up with prarrie canoe that might need a mild fettle before getting thrashed on the dyno?
ho hum. I rather want to drive it again one day soon.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 20, 2018 22:18:30 GMT
This turned up: but obviously doesn't fit, in that if you bolt it on with that bolt on the wing, the top is in the way of the lid shutting. I think I'm going to opt for double sided taping it to the scuttle business. Then I have to decide what to do about the fact that it airlocks if the lid is screwed on. I imagine the sensiblest thing to do is find my smallest drill and make a slender hole through the lid, tastefully offset. Wtf? so something that is (I presume) made to fit & work on a '5 dont  I'm not gonna ask where it was bought from or who made it but I definately dont think it's fit-for-purpose as to your wiring-connector thoughts, I believe you will need to canabilise the purge-solenoid with great prejudice (& hammer / swa / blunt-instruments...) to get the male-connector thinggy? cant you solder/heatschrink splice the 'new' connector (or length of wire) in place of the origonal plug? having secrets is unfair..... as to dyno operators, my experience is that... 1, they tell you the car OR engine is not up to standard (not one of my cars - was watching someone else's car...) 2, your car suffers an annoying electrical issue so you borrow another car to drive home & get repair stuff.... 3, your car prarrie canoes itself on the rollers (not mine BUT have seen it - verry funny IF not yours...) 4, run out of fuel....... 5, have coolant / fuel leaks OR bald tyres that do not grip the rollers.... 6, have a perfect day with good results - smiles all round  Sorta. Rich. |
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Post by cat on Jul 21, 2018 13:50:16 GMT
I might see if I can get a better (thinner) lid for it, perhaps. Taping it into the scuttle isn't the best idea because that's the way the window water goes on its way through the fender to the floor so it would be constantly washing the tape. For myself today, I've painted some of my boot: And started trying to get the covers off the lights so they can become a better kind of blue rather than brown. That got stuck in the land of nothing will undo, so I've been out and got a traditional smack it with a hammer type of impact driver, so we'll see how badly that can chew up a screw shortly.
I also took the power steering reservoir off the pump to see if I can fit a new o-ring... the old one is flat as a pancake and when topped up, it was initially leaking. it did seem to have stopped but who wants a marginal seal?
I'm itching to get the battery brackets bolted in to see if they will, but I must leave that paint for a decent couple of days before pratting about with it... also I don't actually have a battery tray so....
Much to do, I'm still intending to get the dash out, tidy some wiring up and see if the heater pipes are leaking into the footwell. But that realistically is going to be another month (maybe I'll do it during winter)
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Post by cat on Jul 21, 2018 16:32:26 GMT
and I got impatient and the paint seemed reasonably hard, it's not like many people will be rummaging in there looking so meh, I shoved em in to see if they'd fit and they will and the battery will fit too.
Also, I've got one of the headlight covers off, with the impact driver, and the last two stubborn screws on the other one will get slots cut in them and further whacked with the impact as and when the fecking dremel battery charges up...
I am going to have to learn how to do a painting soon...
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Post by cat on Jul 22, 2018 10:46:46 GMT
Last night I made some progress on the secret project, although I did need help from a different forum! Shock.
Right now today I'm halfway through a job and feeling really jolly positive about it so I thought I'd post now, and then update later when I have a success or failure value.
I've *again* pulled the hood off and fiddled with the rain rail. Last time I achieved a mere *trickle* of water from two of the bolts when the hose was applied. This being too much water for the inside of a car I threw the cover back on it and figured I'd care about it again when the turbo was working, which it is, so I care.
This time I've added more and more glue backed aluminium tape on the car side of the rail to close up any weep holes and this time applied silicone washer to BOTH sides of the hood, rather than just the inside.
I've stopped for a spot of tea and cake to give my achy body a chance to rest because I'm actually 6 feet tall, so getting myself back in there to rear canoe about with those rail nuts is unpossible.
I'll be back out momentarily to torque up the dingles in the order suggested on some website or other, to the torque they suggest and then we'll see if the HOSE wins again or not....
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le sigh