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Post by Whistler on Aug 7, 2018 19:40:13 GMT
So I dried it off, scrubbed it with sandpaper, washed it in alcomahol till the paper towel came back shiny and did this: I theorise I'm saving myself £100 of aftermarket exchanger, but costing myself £5 in new padding materials. JB Weld isn't keen on staying in the tubes either... leaky crap.
The question is am I being a silly billy and should I just close my eyes, pray the aftermarket doodle would be the right size and pay for it, or is there a decent chance that this will cure the ills.
I used Araldite to fix my old Triumph 2000 radiator - it was still holding strong when I sold the car 4 years later, so you can give it a go. Using a local plumber is probably a good call though!  |
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cat
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Post by cat on Aug 7, 2018 20:53:01 GMT
2 bar off the old compressor, I jury rigged a thin hose into a fat hose with a jubilee to keep that tight, and shoved the fat hose on one of the matrix pipes, shoved another bit of spare fat hose on the other one.
Jammed the nozzle of the 'blowing things into my own eyes' device into the end of the fat hoze and my thumb over the other hose, for maximum gas bubbles in the blood fun.
Dunked the business under the water so the hoses were above the level and pulled the trigger a bit so i could feel it pushing on my thumb some... then the wee bubbles.
I guess I should have done the solder business, I do have a propane torch, but only the electrical kind of solder and I felt nervous about to what extent the fault could be a *crack* rather than a pinhole.
I figured going over the expected pressure of the wrong (thinner) fluid would account for 'stuff getting bigger when it's hot' and 'making a point'. It was the only place on the device that showed any sign of holing.
Now I know I *can* get the thing out without removing the dash, and that also I can get the dash out in about 2 hours, I guess I'll wait till it dribbles again and then fix it properly :/
I fear I've made a terrible mistake, but it is now done.
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Post by Zed. on Aug 7, 2018 21:15:21 GMT
2 bar off the old compressor I fear I've made a terrible mistake, but it is now done. a car tyre can supply 2Bar / 30psi with a little fiddlin.......  never mistakes, just learning & Experiences (or so I say  ) Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Aug 7, 2018 21:25:17 GMT
As previously suggested, solder it, use plenty of flux...
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cat
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Post by cat on Aug 7, 2018 21:29:42 GMT
Where were all you soldering fans when I wasn't stirring up glue?! In the pub, I wager.
I just want to get enough dash back together to get it drivable since I have all the bits needed to get coilovers installed, and I am excited about that. So hpopefully this will hold for now.
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Post by cat on Aug 9, 2018 19:42:58 GMT
Got sick, so can't go outside and measure anything but since i'm into wasting all my money I've taken a punt that this: docs-emea.rs-online.com/webdocs/0dad/0900766b80dadd61.pdfis the connector that goes in the purge control solenoid (VCV) socket which would allow me to extend that loom without cutting. Maybe it is, maybe it's not. Lets find out. |
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Post by cat on Aug 11, 2018 13:23:26 GMT
The connector arrived:  And guess what? It *IS* the right size to go in the purge solenoid tail... I wish I'd not put it in to check because I now can't get the clip to release and get it back out to pin it. Sigh. I glued some fluff round the fan shroud:
started here:
And after smacking it with a wire wheel to rip off the manky old glue, ended up here:
Hammered it back together thusly:
I've smashed the dash back in just enough to go for a drive and annoy the other half who is still learning to drive and who seems corner and overtake averse. Wheeeeeee.
Now it drives again, I'm booking it in up the road to get the bouncy parts switched out and to consider putting the spare clutch master in, which hopefully will leak less.
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Post by cat on Aug 11, 2018 16:05:44 GMT
pinned up the connector for the boost solenoid. I took a bit of a punt, as you do.. the wiring diagram says yellow-red goes to the solenoid, and white-red is common from all the injectors, the solenoid and ISCV so I assume white-red is more 'common' or 'earthy' than the other end, so I connected yellow-red to the side of the boost 'noid with the + on it. I hope that's right, the thing fires in both directions but I expect it gets hotter one way than the other or something. anyway it looks like this:
I've also soaked the bottom bolts of the bouncies in WD40 in the hope they might come undone at the next asking.
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Post by cat on Aug 12, 2018 16:20:38 GMT
Do I pour this in my tank or not?
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Post by cat on Aug 19, 2018 15:45:05 GMT
So the destructions I got with my car suggest I use semi synth 10w-30, but obviously since then I glued that wee turbo on. I have ticky lifters, and deffffffffinately want to do an oil change before the car goes for mapping anyway. Why do I want to use semi-synth rather than fully synth and does the turbo's internal requirements make any difference? Does it matter terribly much if i use 10w-40, it's half the price  If you lot can't give me a straight answer, I guess I'll have to embarrass myself by calling opie and asking them, right? |
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Post by atlex on Aug 19, 2018 22:38:28 GMT
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Post by cat on Aug 20, 2018 12:06:58 GMT
Thanks for the steer, for some reason I though fully synth was 'crap' and semi synth was half way to the expensive goal of mineral oil /o\
I shall crack on with removing my clicks! Cheers.
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Post by niklas on Aug 20, 2018 15:12:46 GMT
Full synth is pretty much always better. A thin oil with a good film strenght (not at all related to the oils viscosity) is what you want. Basically as this as you can go and still have good pressure when hot. On a standard 5 this probably translates to about a 5w-40. This guy has got some thoughts on the matter: 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ |
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Post by cat on Aug 28, 2018 10:30:40 GMT
coilovers happened, and I have to say from a quick fast road and a roundabout they feel *GREAT*
Probably needs a bit of tracking done thoughbut.
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Post by cat on Aug 30, 2018 17:47:33 GMT
I've been pressing buttons I shouldn't and fiddling with stuff I don't understand again.
I mucked about with the O2 sensor a bit, checked that the computer definitely knew it was in idle when the throttle was closed.
Found the bit that says it's overrevving and exactly by how much and whatnot.
Fiddled with a load of stuff to try and get the idle to drop without affecting it hardly anything at all.
So I got out and fiddled with the idle screw
Seems to think it's hitting its own target now, mind.
I tried to check the timing as well, but guess what, the crap strobe light I got doesn't seem to flash, either that or there's no spark on C1 which seems unlikely because it's not running lumpy. Ho hum, minor victories. It'll waste less petrol. I guess the idle was high because I switched to massive injectors?
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)
le sigh