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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jan 26, 2019 9:07:26 GMT
I'm after a decent LSD to put in my Mk1. By proper LSD, I mean nothing standard ... Torsen, VLSD or Fuji will not hold the power. Needs to be clutch type really, so Mazdaspeed, Kaaz, Cusco etc.
I only really need the internals, but happy to buy one complete. Not worried about the ratio as that will be changed anyway
West Midlands ideally, but I can travel for the right one
Russell
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Post by Zed. on Jan 26, 2019 12:19:46 GMT
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jon
Chats A Lot
Posts: 270
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Post by jon on Jan 26, 2019 12:30:43 GMT
Define 'hold the power' ?
Torsens are good for pretty much anything you can get out of a '5 so you'd be unlikely to break it.
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 26, 2019 16:18:01 GMT
Define 'hold the power' ? Torsens are good for pretty much anything you can get out of a '5 so you'd be unlikely to break it. Torsens are great until you unload a wheel, then they spin almost as badly as an open dif: Most prevalent when going through hairpins. They do work well otherwise though. +1 for the Kaaz. |
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Post by atlex on Jan 26, 2019 16:22:26 GMT
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 26, 2019 18:36:44 GMT
That works exactly like a torsen, to quote their site- They are designed with a torque bias of 5:1 this means that if one wheel loses traction then the wheel with the most grip can receive five times as much torque as the wheel that is slipping. However, five times zero is still zero, so all these helical LSD’s work best when both wheels are ‘planted’ and some traction is still available on the slipping wheel. |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jan 26, 2019 23:25:34 GMT
Cheers for the thoughts guys ...
Torsen is out. I've broken them with less than half the power I have now, so I'm not going to buy something I know will fail sooner or later
Interesting on 3J, not come across them? If I was going to spend £800 I'd probably get a Cusco or an OS Giken? Very intrigued by the OS Giken ones!!
Blackline ... Chinese copies are not a good idea in my book. I might be underselling them, but the only guy I know that bought one replaced it after 3 weeks
Russell
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Post by Zed. on Jan 26, 2019 23:48:07 GMT
I believe that 3J might be a resurrection of Tran-X  I've used Tran-X gears, shafts & lsd's in rallycars for many years, I used to build gearboxes & diffs. in my opinion their quality was better than quaife (also, quaife make same schyte diff design as blackline - the ATB  ) still have a new Tran-X sccr gearkit and donor ford t9 gearbox in my garage supposedly for my Chevette rallycar build but it might end up in the Eunos  Rich. |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jan 26, 2019 23:55:29 GMT
I believe that 3J might be a resurrection of Tran-X I've used Tran-X gears, shafts & lsd's in rallycars for many years, I used to build gearboxes & diffs. in my opinion their quality was better than quaife (also, quaife make same schyte diff design as blackline - the ATB ) still have a new Tran-X sccr gearkit and donor ford t9 gearbox in my garage supposedly for my Chevette rallycar build but it might end up in the Eunos Rich. Worth looking into then, Tran-x were superb, had them in a Mk2 escort of mine. My understanding is that the Blackline are a copy of the Ashcroft helical design. Don't like copies ... Russell |
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jon
Chats A Lot
Posts: 270
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Post by jon on Jan 27, 2019 11:25:21 GMT
Torsen is out. I've broken them with less than half the power I have now, so I'm not going to buy something I know will fail sooner or later There's plenty of people in the US that are running them with 400BHP+ without it being a common failure point. Normally the half shafts go before the diff internals itself if you are doing something like a clutch dump launch on slicks... If you are really launching hard with a big power car and get wheel hop it isn't going to do it a lot of good, or the rest of the drivetrain, not sure a clutch diff would fare a lot better though.. The Fuji diffs are normally the ones that self destruct... |
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 27, 2019 12:47:43 GMT
Not being a mechanical expert but drawing from experience of owning & driving, the clutch diff feels the most planted/grippy of the ones I’ve tried. Don’t get me wrong, torsens work great most of the time, it’s just so frustrating not being able to put power down when you can feel 1 wheel spin up & you have to back off to get it to grip. If the rear axle is bouncing I’d say IMHO that was a spring/damping issue that needs to be addressed before more damage is caused to the drivetrain.
IL diff mounts help....
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jan 27, 2019 17:55:52 GMT
Torsen is out. I've broken them with less than half the power I have now, so I'm not going to buy something I know will fail sooner or later There's plenty of people in the US that are running them with 400BHP+ without it being a common failure point. Normally the half shafts go before the diff internals itself if you are doing something like a clutch dump launch on slicks... If you are really launching hard with a big power car and get wheel hop it isn't going to do it a lot of good, or the rest of the drivetrain, not sure a clutch diff would fare a lot better though.. The Fuji diffs are normally the ones that self destruct... With the greatest of respect, please stop derailing this thread. Torsen is not the answer here (although I do appreciate, they are usually fine for most uses!). They do break at higher power levels, and do not do the job I want well enough at any power level. I don't have an MX5 engine, gearbox, prop, diff, driveshafts or hubs so all the usual rules do not apply Got a good lead on a Kaaz, so thanks for the info & suggestions Russell |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Jan 27, 2019 18:05:42 GMT
Not being a mechanical expert but drawing from experience of owning & driving, the clutch diff feels the most planted/grippy of the ones I’ve tried. Don’t get me wrong, torsens work great most of the time, it’s just so frustrating not being able to put power down when you can feel 1 wheel spin up & you have to back off to get it to grip. If the rear axle is bouncing I’d say IMHO that was a spring/damping issue that needs to be addressed before more damage is caused to the drivetrain. IL diff mounts help.... Cheers, that was my thinking. Torsen are fine, until you try something that locks properly. I sold a Cusco diff a few years back, and really regret it! It's a bit like Toyo T1rs vs a decent tyre. There's nothing wrong with T1r as such, until you try something that doesn't flex and melt if you push hard! Diff is not an MX5 diff, but cheers for the thought ... I can't remember how it's all mounted so that's something I need to go through before I start pushing things at the track / strip Russell |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 11, 2019 0:08:48 GMT
Okey, I’ve waited for more posts but now I need to ask..... wazzitthen? Rich. |
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Post by Vindi (Russell) on Apr 11, 2019 8:07:59 GMT
Okey, I’ve waited for more posts but now I need to ask..... wazzitthen? Rich. Only half done, but it's a Lexus V8. Currently at about 300bhp & 350 ft/lbs but it's an early thick rod 1UZ and the internals are good for 500+ bhp, soooooo.... Still looking ... may well end up going for a Cadillac CTS-V diff but that's load more money! Russell |
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(also a used diff will need plates at best, they can wear internally and be 'sticky' with the plates catching on the casings if of low quality or abused 
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le sigh