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Post by dickie on Nov 16, 2023 18:28:57 GMT
I used copious amounts of brake cleaner sprayed down the head oil restrictor using nozzle tube as well as all the other oilways.
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Post by dickie on Nov 19, 2023 19:48:41 GMT
Hi Folks, Link to Piccys of progress.
Crank torqued up and spins nicely with no noticable end float.
Next job is to install the rings on the pistons then plug them in !!
I still need to buy a set of seals for the block, Nearly payday !!!
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Post by dadbif on Nov 20, 2023 8:35:11 GMT
You need some end float, between .003” and .012”. Looking good!
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Post by dickie on Nov 20, 2023 18:12:50 GMT
I expect the oil that I am assembling with is stopping much movement as its 20/50 Classic Oil.
I should be able to put a clock gauge onto the flywheel face to check the end float.
I have seen one or two Mk2.5 Crankshafts with loads of end float.
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Post by dickie on Nov 20, 2023 20:22:56 GMT
I now have got one piston / rod assembly installed.
I had to wire wool my ancient ring clamp then clean it off and oil it before use.
I think they date back to 1960s. Last time the larger sizes got used was in the 1990s when I built a Holbay GLS engine up.
Normally its the smallest size in the set that gets used on the Austin 7 with its 57 mm Pistons.
The worst job is installing the Piston Rings !!! I use a very thin sheet of mylar instead of the broken feeler gauge.
This is used as a tapered funnel to slide the rings into place.
Only another three to assemble and fit !!
I am doing the rings and piston fitting one at a time to minimise the time they are out of the engine.
Re checked the crank end float with the flywheel attached and its all within limits.
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Post by dadbif on Nov 20, 2023 22:38:07 GMT
Proper oil!!
I once had a Dolomite Sprint that wouldn’t change gear, the thrust washers on the crank fell out and the crankshaft ate its way into the block, when you put your foot on the clutch the crank moved that far forward the clutch wouldn’t disengage… happy days
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Post by dickie on Nov 25, 2023 13:22:06 GMT
Hi Folks,
All the pistons and rings installed ( No broken rings Just a fingernail )
Time for a cup of tea then go back into the garage and torque up the big ends.
I now have all the seals and oilway bungs to be able to finish the bottom end.
Everything should be straight forward and easy from now on.
Just time patience and cleanliness.
I will try and get a couple more progress pics posted.
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Post by dickie on Nov 26, 2023 10:35:14 GMT
Hi Folks,
I managed to fit the Boundary oil pump and a new Gates Water pump last night.
Imgur is taking an age to upload pictures !!
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Post by dickie on Nov 26, 2023 12:33:21 GMT
![]() ![]() Hi Folks,
Here is a link to the latest progress pics.
Cheers Dickie
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Post by dadbif on Nov 27, 2023 14:05:38 GMT
Beautiful, almost a shame to get it oily…😉
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Post by dickie on Nov 27, 2023 18:02:22 GMT
Being a Ludite I still cant work out how to get pictures into the thread.
I have tried to re size then but they might still be to big !!!
One of the fun facts with this mad engine build is that as I have reduced the stroke I have also reduced the compression ratio !!!
A bit is gained back by the pistons poking the tops out of the bore.
Higher compression than stock pistons also pull a bit back.
I will have to skim the head some more once I pull the engine out of the car to do the swap Current skim is 060 thou which is on the limit of the cam belt tensioner.
I have a larger diameter belt idler to see if it will fit ( Volvo one I took off when I did the cambelt ) If it fits I will buy a new one.
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Post by atlex on Nov 27, 2023 21:25:17 GMT
Being a Ludite I still cant work out how to get pictures into the thread. I have tried to re size then but they might still be to big !!! One of the fun facts with this mad engine build is that as I have reduced the stroke I have also reduced the compression ratio !!! A bit is gained back by the pistons poking the tops out of the bore. Higher compression than stock pistons also pull a bit back. I will have to skim the head some more once I pull the engine out of the car to do the swap Current skim is 060 thou which is on the limit of the cam belt tensioner. I have a larger diameter belt idler to see if it will fit ( Volvo one I took off when I did the cambelt ) If it fits I will buy a new one. I'm imagining it will start singing over 8k, if you've got the right inlet shape :-) |
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Post by warpspeed on Nov 28, 2023 1:56:06 GMT
The original BP design is "non interference" in that if you bust a timing belt, if one of the valves stops moving at max full lift, the piston just cannot go up high enough to reach it.
A combination of higher lift cams, higher compression piston, and a shaved head may have changed that.
If this is the case, and you know about it, it may be worth changing the cam belt a bit more frequently, especially if you have fitted super strong valve springs, and you plan to give it a bit of a rev.
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Post by dadbif on Nov 28, 2023 9:08:25 GMT
Make sure you do a dry run to ensure valve to piston clearance, put a layer of plasticine or blue tack on top of your pistons , fit the head, without head gasket, and slowly turn the engine over by hand, hopefully you will not make valve to piston contact. Remove the head and check for witness marks on the plasticine.
Larger diameter pulleys/tensioners can help with the slack slack in the timing belt.
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Post by lowender on Nov 28, 2023 10:21:59 GMT
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le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT