pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157 
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Post by pewe on Nov 25, 2021 12:17:51 GMT
Recently replaced my seals using the rope method which means you don't have to remove the head. Pretty simple really but make sure you use polypropelene rope as it's a lot tougher than hessian/jute and doesn't shed hairs into the bores. Courtesy of Toby at O'Keefe Motors in Hurst some tips:- if you don't have a oil seal sheath use a 6mm diam drinking straw cut at 45degrees one end and with a small slit at the other to fit over the valve stem to avoid nicking the seal as you place it.
- obvious but liberally lubricate seals lip and valve stem on re-assembly. - use 10/60 fully synth oil - expensive but it's now showing the best oil pressure ever.
I cant say what it's now doing re oil consumption but it sure doesn't smoke like it used to - result!
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Post by atlex on Nov 25, 2021 17:32:13 GMT
Since our dumbarrrse ban on plastic drinking straws I made my own 'thingy' using some heat shrink on a 6mm od drill bit. Lubed up the inside of the seals before attempting the thing too. How was your engine smoking before ? on over-run or on part throttle / cruise / idle ? BTW one thing strikes me from your post... 60 weight is wayyyyy too heavy for our weather OR engines. That's like big iron Tailgate McNoIndicate spec oil. Sure you're reading the the best ever oil pressure but the flow is probably not what it should be and your economy will suffer as a result. 30 or more normal for our engines in non-performance mode and maybe 40 for autosolo / some track work, 50 is probably good for hot weather racing in southern spain. 60 is just.. too danmnnn thiccc. See www.opieoils.co.uk/t-car-engine-oil-10w-60-explained.aspx for confirmation of what I mean. |
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Post by batou on Nov 26, 2021 15:11:26 GMT
BTW one thing strikes me from your post... 60 weight is wayyyyy too heavy for our weather OR engines. That's like big iron Tailgate McNoIndicate spec oil. Sure you're reading the the best ever oil pressure but the flow is probably not what it should be and your economy will suffer as a result. I use 10/50W in mine (and the Subaru) and might be moving to 10/60W once I've run out of 10/50W after the next change... its quite common for them to run this in Japan due to the hot summers but its still a good weight here if you run the car hard during the summer. You'd be suprised, I used to get hot lifter tick after a good run out and sat idling on the drive before backing into the garage, now it doesn't happen at all when the engine is hot. Oil pressure is excellent and touch wood, the car simply does not lose oil over the course of a year of mileage. Apparently there was a light blue smoke on a gear change occassionally on track but I haven't noticed myself, but it has done over 212,000km now so to be expected at somepoint. I still get the odd cold start tick but very rarely and only after the oils done a seasons worth of driving, its put away during the winter months so don't need to worry too much about cold performance.  |
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pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157
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Post by pewe on Dec 1, 2021 12:42:11 GMT
I hear what you're saying Atlex & the Opie article is interesting but doesn't actually say don't use it.
It smoked on over-run and after standing for a week or so. Oil down the bores showed improvement but not enough to indicate massive ring or bore wear.
The oil recommendation comes from two very reliable sources - both Japanese specialists, one runs numerous race cars, the other 250+bhp on his engines.
I'm always careful to let the engine warm up properly though before hitting the loud pedal.
Time will tell whether there's any detriment to running that weight of oil...
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Post by dadbif on Dec 1, 2021 22:25:19 GMT
In the 70’s/80’s the standard oil used to be 20w50. Duckhams used to be my oil of choice.
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le sigh