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Post by wannabe on Jun 21, 2016 13:29:58 GMT
Following discussions in a thread I was reading (on nutz??) I'm wondering if I should swap to 5w50 oil - currently running 5w40 synthetic (from Asda ) and it does seem to be going through it at a fair rate. It also has oil pressure at about 1 on the dial when idling and hot, maybe even a little lower when the oil is getting low. Perhaps a 5w50 would keep the swift quietening of the HLA noise the 5 rating brings, but the 50 would be a bit thicker so pressure might be better and perhaps it won't drink so much? I don't want internal drag issues, though. I need to log when I fill it up really - I'm spoiled by the missus' car that seemingly never requires any maintenance whatsoever and never uses oil (good job as she does canoe all to look after it ), so need to remember that my old french motors used to use about 1 litre per 1000 miles! don't swap to 10w30 is my advice i have gone the other way - from 10w30 to 10w40 - and the car has felt better for it. was recommended by Skuzzle. said the 30 was too low and 40 is about right on another oil thread on here i use the triple qx stuff from eurocarparts as they usually have fairly ok offers and it's well priced to start with if you've got low pressure you might have an issue that needs looking into - mine starts out at about 5 ish, then settles down to 2 once I have got it properly warmed up during normal driving stayed at 4 throughout the whole Blyton track weekend and used ~1L after about 6 sessions of 20-30 minutes' length Cheers for the feedback I'm running 5w40 now and have been pretty happy with it, seems to quieten the HLA noise down pretty quickly! Nick did say that he thought my gauge might just be broken or not working properly lol I think what I need to do is get a 'proper' oil gauge fitted so I can see what it's actually doing. I'm sure my previous car had an oil pressure gauge that also sat between 0 and 1 when hot, so as long as it's not 0 I'm not too worried, but hopefully it won't come to bite me on the rear canoe... lol I don't think it's ever got as high as 4! Good to hear that some oil burning should be expected, I guess it will always be the case unless oversize pistons are fitted during a complete overhaul to effectively create a whole new engine??
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Post by jackyboy on Jun 27, 2016 11:01:20 GMT
7 hours of motorway stuff and 1 hour of hard track stuff yesterday and i am happy to say that the engine was excellent. I am going to it to some fresh fluids i think. Deserves it!
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Post by Horney on Jun 27, 2016 12:13:09 GMT
Wheres the pics man!
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Post by jackyboy on Jun 27, 2016 23:33:57 GMT
I took a few pictures on the phone i will upload them when i get a chance.
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Post by jackyboy on Jul 26, 2016 22:37:30 GMT
going to change to a 10/50 oil for a few months. should see me through the next track day and hill climb run and action day. will see how the race oil does.
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Post by Horney on Jul 27, 2016 7:46:44 GMT
Not sure why you'd bother TBH. I run all my cars including the race ones on cheapo Halfords 10/40. Regular changes are more important than fancy oils.
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Post by wannabe on Jul 27, 2016 12:44:08 GMT
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Post by jackyboy on Jul 27, 2016 20:04:40 GMT
but Nick it says racing oil on the bottle i can tell people i use racing oil. because one day race car. to be honest i was looking in asda for oil but could not find any decent stuff. should have gone online. doh!
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Post by robert on Jul 27, 2016 21:45:16 GMT
given that track use has high revs, high load and high temps i go for ester oils to resist that stress. change every 5 track days. peace of mind isn't so expensive as esters on sale are around £30 for a 5 sump.
i have no science to back this up, just the ester spin from opie and others. However, i did notice on another car that my water temp reduced by 1-2 deg when i switched to Millers CFS (ester based), and i wasn't even looking for this. As Horney says, regular changes of std oil is probably ok too. and he's the Boss.
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Post by atlex on Jul 27, 2016 22:01:36 GMT
+1 for CFS despite their magic HP claims.
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Post by rockyeunos on Aug 4, 2016 3:38:07 GMT
Thanks dude, feel a bit better now! No more power up in that part of the band This is true, but there is still a significant gearing disadvantage in the next gear so it's still quicker to hold on ☺☺☺ (According to engineering explained)
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Post by V6 on Aug 4, 2016 5:50:20 GMT
Very interesting thread. What alloy radiators, oil coolers and plumbing do you guys recommend? Just something to add to a future wish list...
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Post by myothercarsa2cv on Aug 4, 2016 9:51:40 GMT
I'm all standard apart from a Fast5 rad and a coolant reroute. Oh and a relocated oil filter that is more awkward than standard to get to... works alright need to change the oil, but otherwise it holds temps ok.
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Post by Horney on Aug 4, 2016 10:08:55 GMT
Very interesting thread. What alloy radiators, oil coolers and plumbing do you guys recommend? Just something to add to a future wish list... Most people use the cheap eBay alloy rads, they work well and its what I have int he supercharged car. For the Oil Cooler everyone uses the Mocal kit from Thinkauto.
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Post by V6 on Aug 4, 2016 10:35:19 GMT
Cool thanks.
Also what brake pads are people using for fast road use? The sort which might be ok for sensible occasional track use? Do people also upgrade the brake lines or anything else?
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