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Post by atlex on Oct 22, 2022 16:01:10 GMT
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 28, 2022 9:08:42 GMT
I'm still waiting for the new clutch slave cylinder to arrive so I was faffing with the exhaust last night. I'd tried to fit a new Jass heat shield, but one of the bolts sheared off in the manifold captive nut, and I couldn't get the remains out while it was still in the car. So I took it out again and spent a while drilling into the bolt to get one of those stud extractors in it. Eventually I just drilled through enough of it that I reached the other side, and used some brute force and ignorance to mangle the rest out. Then I did what I should've done in the first place and chased the threads with a tap. My manifold is missing the bottom right bracket that the heat shield has a hole for, so it'll only be held on with two bolts. The manifold that came attached to the spare engine was also missing the same bracket so I couldn't even just swap them over!
When I was test running the car to do the timing it was pretty bloody hot without any sort of heat shield, and the Jass one is just a shiny single skin piece of stainless steel, so I wrapped the manifold as well. Bit of a rough job but it should do the trick.
Oh and I noticed that my temperature gauge didn't move, even when the engine was hot. I swapped the sensor in the top of the thermostat with the original one, but I'm still getting nothing on the gauge. Any guesses what to try next?
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Post by Zed. on Oct 28, 2022 12:44:31 GMT
I noticed that my temperature gauge didn't move, even when the engine was hot. I swapped the sensor in the top of the thermostat with the original one, but I'm still getting nothing on the gauge. Any guesses what to try next?
the temperature gauge sender is on the heater outlet or rear of cylinderhead I believe spade connector.... ^^ Sorta thing... Rich.
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 28, 2022 13:44:38 GMT
Aha, thanks Zed. - I might have just forgotten to plug that back in, let's hope so! Clutch slave has now arrived so will have a go at fitting that tonight.
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Post by atlex on Oct 29, 2022 20:49:52 GMT
Not really 5 specific but I (finally) built myself a set of knock ears/det cans. I used a personal audio amplification device, which I'm sure some of our, ahem, more distinguished members here will be familiar with. Cut the little crappy mic off and wired it up to a cable that plugs into another bosch donut knock sensor (same model as the ECU is listening to). I drilled this one out to 10mm and Bolted it onto the one of the engine hoist loop mounts. http://instagram.com/p/CkT8LFlLMUZ And it works. With the ignition on and the engine not turning you can hear the fuel flowing through the rail. You can really hear the different between knock and engine noise. You can hear how much busier the engine sounds at higher RPM. All eager to hear the difference between different motors now.
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Post by dadbif on Oct 29, 2022 20:56:23 GMT
Speak up, I didn’t quite catch what you said…
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Post by zoona on Oct 29, 2022 23:20:57 GMT
Not really 5 specific but I (finally) built myself a set of knock ears/det cans. I used a personal audio amplification device, which I'm sure some of our, ahem, more distinguished members here will be familiar with. Cut the little crappy mic off and wired it up to a cable that plugs into another bosch donut knock sensor (same model as the ECU is listening to). I drilled this one out to 10mm and Bolted it onto the one of the engine hoist loop mounts. http://instagr.am/p/CkT8LFlLMUZ And it works. With the ignition on and the engine not turning you can hear the fuel flowing through the rail. You can really hear the different between knock and engine noise. You can hear how much busier the engine sounds at higher RPM. All eager to hear the difference between different motors now. I watched the video you posted... Have ordered one of the 'devices' too. $12. Will make an interesting toy
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Post by atlex on Oct 30, 2022 9:37:07 GMT
Speak up, I didn’t quite catch what you said…
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Post by dadbif on Oct 30, 2022 13:03:30 GMT
After three NA’s, last one supercharged, I have acquired a 2.0 NC with PRHT. Interestingly I find that Mazda use the same trim screws as the mark 1, but black instead of khaki… Rust free underneath, which is nice.
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Post by dickie on Oct 30, 2022 17:21:04 GMT
Hi Folks, Today I jacked the car up and tightened up the exhaust clamps as it had a slight blow. I also re tightened the new BBR ITB manifold onto the Hondata gasket as it had all gone through a few heat cycles. I also trimmed a bit more off the Sausage Air filter by the Clutch Slave Cylinder to give it a bit more clearance.
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Post by Zed. on Oct 30, 2022 19:39:53 GMT
After three NA’s, last one supercharged, I have acquired a 2.0 NC with PRHT. Interestingly I find that Mazda use the same trim screws as the mark 1, but black instead of khaki… Rust free underneath, which is nice. good I was impressed with Rich (Thruxton's) NC @ the Llandow trackday in the summer not quite the boat Legend says they are if you've a goodun then enjoy it (& look after it ) Rich.
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Post by dadbif on Oct 30, 2022 21:30:09 GMT
Fixing a few stereo wiring problems first, then rustproofing the underside.
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Post by Zed. on Oct 30, 2022 22:11:26 GMT
Fixing a few stereo wiring problems first, then rustproofing the underside. Look @ the rear subframe etc. Rich.
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Post by dadbif on Oct 31, 2022 7:44:21 GMT
Not too bad, I’ve seen a lot worse on newer cars
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Post by boggissimo on Oct 31, 2022 11:29:09 GMT
OK, clutch slave replacement is done, but I got lost with where all the pipes went. It looks from the diagram like there's a whole load of unnecessary pipework between the master cylinder and the slave cylinder: Before I do something silly, is there any reason I can't just replace all that gubbins with the braided line straight down from the master cylinder to the slave? I'm going to wish I'd done it while the engine was out, that's for sure.
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