|
|
Post by boggissimo on Nov 4, 2022 11:33:55 GMT
I'm getting really fed up with it now. I finally found a position where I could see into the clutch fork-hole, and the fork is pushing the release bearing towards the clutch as it should. It just doesn't seem to push it far enough to move the clutch spring fingers. I took the slave cylinder off its mounting point, brought it up above the master cylinder, put the bleed nipple at the top and bled it a few times. I think the master cylinder is OK as it does get some pressure, and does push the fluid through to the slave. The pedal has a bit of resistance right at the end of its travel, but I still can't get the bleddy thing into gear with the engine running.  A few people have suggested that I might need to adjust the clutch pedal/pushrod position in the master cylinder, and I found some guidance on Flying Miata, so I'm going to give that a try next. A few other people have suggested that I've put the clutch friction plate in back to front, which I really didn't think I had until people kept suggesting it... |
|
|
|
Post by atlex on Nov 6, 2022 21:56:35 GMT
The ITB/Aizawa/White Car Faff Day....
Ran a cold compression test
150/145/145/145 PSI (1,2,3,4) NTB really.
Replaced the plugs with some platinum twin tip denso jobbies. LUXURY.
Fitted the Bosch donut knock sensor & spaced out the oil pressure sender so I could do that. Cleaned the sender spade a bit and it seems to be giving stronger signal than before.
Reattached the heater cores since it's fkin cold now.
Drove it a few times.
Enabled the fuelcut and it works perfectly fine with that.
STILL ON ME221 but I'm getting so close..
|
|
|
|
Post by boggissimo on Nov 7, 2022 9:45:18 GMT
I'm getting really fed up with it now. I finally found a position where I could see into the clutch fork-hole, and the fork is pushing the release bearing towards the clutch as it should. It just doesn't seem to push it far enough to move the clutch spring fingers. I took the slave cylinder off its mounting point, brought it up above the master cylinder, put the bleed nipple at the top and bled it a few times. I think the master cylinder is OK as it does get some pressure, and does push the fluid through to the slave. The pedal has a bit of resistance right at the end of its travel, but I still can't get the bleddy thing into gear with the engine running. A few people have suggested that I might need to adjust the clutch pedal/pushrod position in the master cylinder, and I found some guidance on Flying Miata, so I'm going to give that a try next. A few other people have suggested that I've put the clutch friction plate in back to front, which I really didn't think I had until people kept suggesting it... I got a sneaky hour or so in the garage on Saturday, and after doing my best contorsionist impression I fiddled with the clutch pedal position. Apart from scraping my knuckles, swearing a lot, and the blue plastic spacer thing disintegrating (after 30 years in service, not surprising), it made bugger all difference 
The hole where the pedal pushrod goes into the master cylinder looks a bit rusty so I'm thinking of replacing the master cylinder as one last-ditch effort before biting the bullet and dropping the transmission. Even if it doesn't make any difference, at least I'll know all the bits have been refreshed at the same time.
|
|
|
|
Post by boggissimo on Nov 8, 2022 9:11:01 GMT
Actually scrap that, I tried all the adjustment I could with the pedal and it still wouldn't work, so I've started undoing things to drop the gearbox. Got the propshaft bolts undone, though unsurprisingly after 30 years it's rusted to the flange of the diff. Nearly 4 months off the road now, and only 2 of those were doing the engine swap!
|
|
|
|
Post by thruxton on Nov 8, 2022 10:23:27 GMT
This will be very interesting.
Rich.
|
|
|
|
Post by boggissimo on Nov 9, 2022 9:14:09 GMT
Made some more progress last night. Got the prop shaft out, took the slave cylinder off for the 7th time, and undid about half of the bellhousing bolts. A couple of awkward ones still to wrestle with but should be able to drop it next time I'm in the garage. I'm actually hoping that I did put the friction plate in back to front, because if I didn't, I have no idea why it's not working!
|
|
|
|
Post by howardb66 on Nov 9, 2022 14:36:10 GMT
Made some more progress last night. Got the prop shaft out, took the slave cylinder off for the 7th time, and undid about half of the bellhousing bolts. A couple of awkward ones still to wrestle with but should be able to drop it next time I'm in the garage. I'm actually hoping that I did put the friction plate in back to front, because if I didn't, I have no idea why it's not working! Have you got the car nice & high? I found it makes life a lot easier when undoing the awkward bellhousing bolts, plus bench pressing a gearbox is no fun. Hope it goes well for you. |
|
|
|
Post by boggissimo on Nov 10, 2022 8:49:27 GMT
Made some more progress last night. Got the prop shaft out, took the slave cylinder off for the 7th time, and undid about half of the bellhousing bolts. A couple of awkward ones still to wrestle with but should be able to drop it next time I'm in the garage. I'm actually hoping that I did put the friction plate in back to front, because if I didn't, I have no idea why it's not working! Have you got the car nice & high? I found it makes life a lot easier when undoing the awkward bellhousing bolts, plus bench pressing a gearbox is no fun. Hope it goes well for you. Haha yeah, it's quite high up, I can get under the car on my creeper without scraping my nose at least. I don't need to get the gearbox out from underneath, just move it out of the way enough to get at the clutch.
I keep hovering over the buy button on one of those tilting car lifts, as it's a pain getting the jack and axle stands in and out. The 1.5 tonne versions are probably all I'd need most of the time, but if the Subaru or Leaf ever need to go up in the air they're both overweight. I'd want an adjustable width one in case I wanted to lift the Isetta too. I'm going to the classic car show at the NEC on Saturday, so maybe I'll find a good deal there... |
|
|
|
Post by moclan on Nov 12, 2022 13:21:25 GMT
swapped my 2 squeeling horns for 2 louder, more truck sound, ones. had enough scares on roundabouts when other cars AND trucks don't see me.
|
|
pewe
Chats A Bit
Posts: 157 
|
Post by pewe on Nov 14, 2022 12:37:33 GMT
Got a quote from a Japanese performance specialist engineering company to refresh my engine - £5-6k  I really didn't want to get down and dirty (inclination and advancing years not withstanding) but looks like I'll have to.... Either that or buy a low mileage, long nose 1.6 and drop that in - any going? |
|
|
|
Post by howardb66 on Nov 14, 2022 13:22:21 GMT
Changed the rear brake pads & went through MOT without any advisories 🙂
|
|
|
|
Post by boggissimo on Nov 14, 2022 15:57:01 GMT
Got a quote from a Japanese performance specialist engineering company to refresh my engine - £5-6k I really didn't want to get down and dirty (inclination and advancing years not withstanding) but looks like I'll have to.... Either that or buy a low mileage, long nose 1.6 and drop that in - any going? Saw this on Facebook earlier, www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/1446830532475708/ |
|
|
|
Post by dadbif on Nov 14, 2022 22:21:02 GMT
Got a quote from a Japanese performance specialist engineering company to refresh my engine - £5-6k I really didn't want to get down and dirty (inclination and advancing years not withstanding) but looks like I'll have to.... Either that or buy a low mileage, long nose 1.6 and drop that in - any going? You could buy a very nice car for that much… |
|
|
|
Post by Zed. on Nov 14, 2022 22:38:58 GMT
Got a quote from a Japanese performance specialist engineering company to refresh my engine - £5-6k I really didn't want to get down and dirty (inclination and advancing years not withstanding) but looks like I'll have to.... Either that or buy a low mileage, long nose 1.6 and drop that in - any going? You could buy a very nice car for that much… I'd be curious what was involved in a 'refresh' for ~£6000  Rich. |
|
|
|
Post by boggissimo on Nov 15, 2022 9:48:36 GMT
Took off the exhaust (again), undid the PPF bolts and some electrical connections, undid the last few bolts holding the gearbox to the engine, and waggled it off. Not gracefully as I didn't know where the centre of gravity was going to be, and I missed a cable off so that pulled out of its connector, but otherwise no big trouble.
Took the clutch pressure plate off, and I did have the friction plate on back to front. So it's really annoying that I've wasted a good month faffing about not being able to fix my mistake (and that the design is such that it *can* be put on back to front), but at least I know it's on the mend now.
|
|
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT