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Post by martiny on Apr 17, 2019 11:08:28 GMT
Personally the lack of anecdotal evidence about people buying the skidnation bolts and that happening is reassuring enough for me But it would of course be typical that I'd be the first one it happened to should I fit them... It's a bit like stock vs upgraded hoses, or radiators. Yes my original camber bolts were rusted solid, but they're 26 years old. In 5 or 10 years, which replacements will hold out better? Lots of people go for unbranded alloy rads when their 20+ year old stock rad top tank turns brown and starts to crack, or gets clogged so it doesn't keep the car cool any more. But which will still be working in a few years? Silicone hose sets used to claim they lasted ten times as long as rubber, but the rubber ones had lasted 20 years... |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 17, 2019 21:54:20 GMT
Bought an autobox for the bellhousing, sorta leap-of-faith that I can adapt it to accept a ford Type 9 5 speed gearbox - maybe I can just make an adaptor plate? will see what I can bodge togther  re. camber / alignment bolts. MY opinion...... I'm a bit suspect of high-tensile bolts that have had their head welded & threads ground or machined  so I bought OEM bolts  also prefer the 'fuse' that possible impact loosening can give  Rich. |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 21, 2019 20:16:33 GMT
painted a spare pair of wiper arms & fitted them, much better than rusty ones painted & fitted a one-piece rear panel / numberplate surround. (not 4 pieces like the broken one that was on the car  ) then cut the bumper, when I bought the car the previous owner had removed a passanger-exit exhaust that was on it when bought so there was a 'spare' cut-out. so today I used the flyinmiata template www.flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/intake_exhaust/FM_dual_template_M1.pdf and chopped away with a tinsnips. now I've got to trim whats left of the bumpers internal brace as previous bodges made quite a mess  bodge over, nothing else to report. Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Apr 21, 2019 22:44:55 GMT
Yesterday: As per my longer post and associated questions in my timing mark thread, I did a fix!  Found and re-marked the timing mark, and then adjusted the timing to somewhere nearer normality and further from imminent death Today: Went for a drive. It has power! It doesn't crackle with the sound of epic pre-detonation! I can use full throttle rather than 1/8th throttle! I can get the shiftlights lit up! I can do 80 instead of 48-54mph (at most), which depended on uphill/downhill gradient and wind direction! I know this is only a minor win for anyone with even half an ounce of mechanical skill  but for a desk-jockey with limited and theoretical knowledge only, an aversion to working outside unless it's 18 degrees but not too sunny, and a crippling fear of trying something new because I might Canoe it up, it was A Big Thing. Having achieved this baby step, the next job, for tomorrow(!), is removing the head to get it refurbished  and then I have to put it all back together by the following Monday. What could possibly go wrong?! |
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Post by martiny on Apr 23, 2019 12:45:45 GMT
There are jobs that an impact gun can do in 15 really Canoeing noisy seconds which would otherwise have taken me all day and I should have bought one years ago.
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Post by wannabe on Apr 23, 2019 17:29:32 GMT
There are jobs that an impact gun can do in 15 really canoeing noisy seconds which would otherwise have taken me all day and I should have bought one years ago. A pox on those who do up every damned nut and bolt with those things, meaning you can be hanging off the end of a ten-foot breaker bar/scaffolding pole and still not be able to crack the initial seal!! Today, I have managed to get the exhaust manifold off (being thankful I had the gasket done recently and my mechanic didn't impact gun the nuts on!), shear a heat shield screw (ffs)  , find and unplug all the connectors (those metal clip ones are a PITA), and stare at my alternator in the hope it would be scared enough to come free (it wasn't, lol). Tomorrow MUST be fuel pipe disconnection (if I can find pliers), inlet manifold removal, all belts/pulleys/tensioers removal, head removal and ancilliaries removal, then take the head to the fixer man... After that I am hoping to take a hammer to the bloody alternator, lol. But if it's alright to ask some quick questions... ?? - Is the inlet manifold held on only by the single large 14mm bolt on the support thing and then the four smaller bolts/nuts between the 'runners' / individual intake pipes? - Why does the guide talk about unplugging the alternator connectors when it seems they are not attached to the inlet manifold?? - Or is alternator then its bracket removal needed?! Neither the workshop manual or the Rod Grainger book are very explicit or useful re: inlet removal... lol |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 23, 2019 17:51:30 GMT
- Is the inlet manifold held on only by the single large 14mm bolt on the support thing and then the four smaller bolts/nuts between the 'runners' / individual intake pipes? - Why does the guide talk about unplugging the alternator connectors when it seems they are not attached to the inlet manifold?? - Or is alternator then its bracket removal needed?! Neither the workshop manual or the Rod Grainger book are very explicit or useful re: inlet removal... lol my take as i have not removed a 1.6 NA head.... Presuming the head is ready to remove so exhaust manifold/cambelt, cambelt covers/headbolts are removed? leave the inlet manifold on the head (easier to remove on a bench for access to nuts etc.) so undo & remove fuel-pipes, wiring connectors, waterpipes & the manifold-brace then lift the head complete with the inlet manifold? ^^what I'd do the alternator adjuster bracket is bolted to the cylinderblock on 1.6 engines, on the 1.8 (& NB 1.6??) it's bolted to the waterpump so not attached to the cylinderhead or inlet manifold? Probably you might need Dynamite or a hammer if you've forgotten something Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Apr 23, 2019 18:43:28 GMT
Got my trubro pandasmurf through MOT. No advisories  WOOHOOO!!!111 |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 23, 2019 20:41:04 GMT
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Post by atlex on Apr 23, 2019 21:54:58 GMT
hope you blast the water out of the spark bores - compressed air ? Zed.! |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 23, 2019 22:25:17 GMT
hope you blast the water out of the spark bores - compressed air ? Zed. ! poke dogroll down them to dry it? thats tomorows job  I was impressed that it was waterproof - wonder if any entered the plugholes as the coils have a rubber seal on their base where they sit on the camcover obviously a successfull bodge Rich. |
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Post by wannabe on Apr 23, 2019 23:26:49 GMT
- Is the inlet manifold held on only by the single large 14mm bolt on the support thing and then the four smaller bolts/nuts between the 'runners' / individual intake pipes? - Why does the guide talk about unplugging the alternator connectors when it seems they are not attached to the inlet manifold?? - Or is alternator then its bracket removal needed?! Neither the workshop manual or the Rod Grainger book are very explicit or useful re: inlet removal... lol my take as i have not removed a 1.6 NA head.... Presuming the head is ready to remove so exhaust manifold/cambelt, cambelt covers/headbolts are removed? leave the inlet manifold on the head (easier to remove on a bench for access to nuts etc.) so undo & remove fuel-pipes, wiring connectors, waterpipes & the manifold-brace then lift the head complete with the inlet manifold? ^^what I'd do the alternator adjuster bracket is bolted to the cylinderblock on 1.6 engines, on the 1.8 (& NB 1.6??) it's bolted to the waterpump so not attached to the cylinderhead or inlet manifold? Probably you might need Dynamite or a hammer if you've forgotten something Rich. Thanks for the reply! The issue is that the alternator is stuck so I can't remove the auxiliary belt and then the cambelt etc. in order to take the head off (with/without inlet manifold), but if I can't remove the inlet manifold (with ot without head attached), I can't unstuck the alternator... lol Chicken / egg! Although as I write this, it's occurred to me I can just cut the bloody auziliary belt off as it's knackered and I have a new one to fit... |
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Post by dadbif on Apr 24, 2019 5:31:00 GMT
You’ll struggle to fit a new belt if the alternator won’t move...
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Post by wannabe on Apr 24, 2019 9:14:15 GMT
This is my fear!
Mr Hammer might come out to 'persuade' it to move at this rate...
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Post by superdan on Apr 24, 2019 11:59:22 GMT
Just on topic, I reinforced my garage door so no one can break in and steal my tools again  |
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) 
but for a desk-jockey with limited and theoretical knowledge only, an aversion to working outside unless it's 18 degrees but not too sunny, and a crippling fear of trying something new because I might Canoe it up, it was A Big Thing.
and then I have to put it all back together by the following Monday.
, find and unplug all the connectors (those metal clip ones are a PITA), and stare at my alternator in the hope it would be scared enough to come free (it wasn't, lol).
WOOHOOO!!!111
