ScottyDugg's Eunos (1.8)

Ok thank, I'm going to go through rad with the mounting, but not the cable tie option, using these HERE.

All my lower bosses have snapped bolts as the rad was second hand, if it gets damaged I'll replace in the future.

Thanks for you help, I'll get the fan ordered.

I've got the A/C circuit, but removed the A/C button, I like your thinking. Maybe keep the small 9" SPAL unit and hook it up that way? interesting.

Is that supercharged or after going turbo?

It was just a few weeks ago & really wished I’d done it earlier. The SC produced a lot of heat & after a sprint or hillclimb run the bonnet was almost too hot to touch. On the road it wasn’t much of an issue as you just can’t drive as fast but if you’re planning on doing trackdays or any sort of competition I would definitely recommend it. You’ve got the fans & old A/C wiring so should’n’t be too tricky. 👍🏻

After the questions above, went and bought a 12" SPAL unit which has now arrived along with a top entry intercooler (Core sixe:330x280x76mm, 2.5" inlets), which I thought might be a tad on the big side but I've seen others use larger coolers.

Spent some more time cutting out and refining the 3 apertures for the gauge pods, best advice to anyone doing this would be cut a little and check a lot, wear a face mask as well.
IMG_20210725_170410 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Then test fitted the pods, they've only had a couple coats of gloss black, still need some lacquer.
IMG_20210725_170439 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Plan is to run from the drivers side: AEM UEGO Wideband, Stack Boost Gauge and Coolant Temp Gauge. Removed the Wideband from the vent it was fitted to, made up a bracket from some 20x2mm Aluminium. This one only required a single bend, but the Stack gauges will need something more in line with the RevLimiter guide. I might add some spreader plates as per the guide also.
IMG_20210725_183855 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Final step was to notch it to allow access for the relevant plugs. Not the neatest but it'll do for what I had available.
IMG_20210725_190959 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

20mm is slightly too wide for the Stack gauges, but I'll just notch them in the relevant places. I think I'm going to run my volt gauge underneath the radio along with my clutch switch cut off (launch control), potentially a second switch that kills the 12V feed to the Wideband (a la Bilbo , did you do this in the end?) so as to not overheat the wideband sensor if not running the car but sat with the ignition on.

Hopefully more to come next weekend.

So continuing on from above, I've spent more time on the gauge pods, mocked up some brackets for the Stack gauges, only difference between the 2 is the clearance required for the connections on the reverse side.

Here's the temp gauge from the reverse:
IMG_20210807_190330 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Since gone on to stick some spreader pads to the reverse of the crash pad, for where the brackets will come into contact.

I couldn't find direct replacement nuts to fit the Stack gauges, so I had to buy a thread gauge and then a tap to retap some spare nuts I had laying around. They're an odd size of M4x0.8.

Whilst I waited for the adhesive to dry, I thought I'd do a dry mock up of the supercharger and all the brackets/hardware. It's lucky I did, the hardware supplied by Garage42 would work fine if I had the complete kit from them, but I'm using an inlet and outlet from a guy who made a small batch on Facebook. So the bolts supplied need replaced for some cap screws, not an issue but a good way to spend some time over a Sunday afternoon.

I've also got the Garage 42 tensioner that Ed made a batch of, now most folk use idler pulleys for these, but got some transit alternator pulleys from the same guy that sold me the inlet/outlet. They'll just need some spacers for the tensioner to clear them as they're quite a bit deeper than the mx5 tensioner pulleys.
IMG_20210808_184429 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

Ordered up everything I think I'll need so will try a proper mock up when it arrives.

Hopefully get these gauges in soon, then I can get the ECU fitted.

I'm ok for brackets, but if you don't need the nuts let me know please, re-tapped nuts are fine for doubling up, but I'd rather use genuine for pulling the gauge pod into position.