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Post by scottydugg on Jul 8, 2021 16:40:40 GMT
As per post in daily update thread, picked up a SPAL fan for cheap on Ebay, turns out it's a 14" unit! I think I can get it to work, but it's ever so slightly larger than the core height, for comparison the 9" unit is another SPAL fan I picked up, potentially run both.  IMG_20210707_190049 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Serviced the oil seal in the M62 snout, with a seal I measured up, it's an imperial size so glad it fit both the recess and supercharger shaft.  IMG_20210707_191636 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Gauge Pods have turned out quite nicely, threw on some primer to see if I've missed any high/low spots:  IMG_20210707_191759 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Currently trying to find a decent boost gauge and water temp gauge, I do like the Stack units but they're well priced/top end. Have looked at some cheaper units, an electronic boost gauge - is there any preference/rule of thumb on selecting a boost gauge? Mechanical or electrical? I need them to match or my OCD might be triggered. Going to be sealing up the charger, so I can fit the new pulley, whilst I wait for the gauge pods to dry. |
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 19, 2021 13:23:35 GMT
Been a buys few weeks so finally managed some time on the 5 again over the weekend. Sealed up the front end of the M62 with some Loctite 518, which is an anaerobic gasket, so should perform a lot better than the gasket sealant someone had used before. Left that to harden for 24+ hours then filled the snout with 110ml of oil and fitted my 65mm reduction pulley. Shimmed to roughly 6.3mm which is towards the top end of the tolerance, allowing enough free movement in the rotors.  IMG_20210718_190713 by Scott Reid, on Flickr I tried spinning the charger with the impact driver but may have slightly stripped the retaining bolt so will need to replace it. Metric tool in an imperial bolt, lesson learned! Got carried away. My Stack boost gauge has turned up, looks a quality piece of kit, glad I went for this now and not a cheapo Ebay special. Just away to order the coolant gauge to go along with it. I've gone for a coolant sensor housing I'll fit to the top rad hose as per the guide HERE:  IMG_20210717_142715 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Finally, now that the body filler was smoothed out on the gauge pods, I started cutting up the crash pad for fitting. I found starting with a hole saw then refining with a sanding drum on the dremel to be the best method. I've only done 1 so far, which still needs some refinement, but it looks good already. Threw some paint on just to see what they'll be like in black. Had intended to get the Flock Shop to flock them, but Ron has sadly shut up shop.  IMG_20210718_194959 by Scott Reid, on Flickr  IMG_20210718_195224 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Just in the process of spec'ing up my intercooler and pipework, thinking reducing down to 2" as per myothercarsa2cv guide HERE. Plan would be to go solid pipework eventually, but I can't do that now as I don't have any pals with a welder. Also picked up a 12"SPAL fan to run with the 9", so if anyone needs a 14"SPAL fan let me know. Wondering whether to go ECU and tune NA or try go ECU and fit supercharger at the same time, welcome any thoughts on this as I'm not sure what will be the best way to go in all honesty? Fitting the ECU would require a tuning session. Anyway, should have a weekend to myself coming up, so should have more progress soon. |
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Post by suggs84 on Jul 19, 2021 18:37:24 GMT
Great progress yet again, those Stack gauges are indeed very good, I had the PSI version in one of my old RS Turbos
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 19, 2021 22:18:53 GMT
Great progress yet again, those Stack gauges are indeed very good, I had the PSI version in one of my old RS Turbos Do you remeber how they wire up? Are they illuminated all the time? It's just got a 12v and gnd, I was expecting an illumination contact or something. Certainly quality, shame its not got a red needle but that's splitting hairs! |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 20, 2021 7:12:34 GMT
Just connect the +ve to the dashboard illumination circuit and the -ve to earth.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 20, 2021 9:23:27 GMT
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 20, 2021 10:26:07 GMT
Just connect the +ve to the dashboard illumination circuit and the -ve to earth. That's the ticket, reading that I realised my error, mechanical gauge! woops! Yes that's the one thanks, indeed I'm trying hard not to continually accrue parts instead of fit them! Although in saying that, I've decided to sell my fans and potentially go for either a single 12" SPAL or dual 12" SPAL. Edit: I've found 2 different 12"SPAL units, one draws 11.8-12.7A (1221cfm each) the other 6.5-6.8A (909cfm each). Some reading leads me to believe stock rad fan is 1400cfm @6.3A. |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 20, 2021 11:30:36 GMT
I'm trying hard not to continually accrue parts instead of fit them! I Identify with that sentiment  as to fans, don't overthink it (yes, I know its amusing to see me write that  ) will the engine / car generate that much heat & not be able to loose it with your huge radiator? also, check if they are push or pull fans? Rich. |
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 20, 2021 12:04:50 GMT
I'm trying hard not to continually accrue parts instead of fit them! I Identify with that sentiment as to fans, don't overthink it (yes, I know its amusing to see me write that ) will the engine / car generate that much heat & not be able to loose it with your huge radiator? also, check if they are push or pull fans? Rich. Going for pull, although worrying about trying to run Options 1: one fan @1200 (11.8-12.7A) or Option 2: 2 @990 (6.5-6.8A). I can't find any alternative or any info, people just say they've ran 2 12" with no issue, wired up in parrallel. I'm concerned with the relay and fuses if I try run them together, I can't run the stock fan if I'm tilting the rad and and all the rad bosses have snapped bolts in them  Mishimoto do a nice fan but it's 4" deep which I think may cause even more issue. Totally at a loss and overthinking now! |
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Post by Zed. on Jul 20, 2021 12:31:58 GMT
all the rad bosses have snapped bolts in them if you were closer..... Totally at a loss and overthinking now! it's a slippery slope, you'll have the car stripped to a rolling-shell like mine shortly if you're not carefull Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Jul 20, 2021 21:20:45 GMT
Do you need more fans? I used to run about Spain with no issues using standard rad.
Ask young Atlex what he has installed.
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 21, 2021 8:19:27 GMT
all the rad bosses have snapped bolts in them if you were closer..... Totally at a loss and overthinking now! it's a slippery slope, you'll have the car stripped to a rolling-shell like mine shortly if you're not careful Rich. Appreciate it, yeah fine line between trying to do it quickly and making a new project out of a project! Do you need more fans? I used to run about Spain with no issues using standard rad. Ask young Atlex what he has installed. Yeah, I'm trying to do a bit of digging on the supercharger Facebook group, I think one guy uses the Exoracing dual fan setup ( HERE) but only runs one for now, which would be a VA09-AP8/C-54A (11", 779cfm, @6.8A). Just waiting on him confirming, if that's the case I could maybe go a VA10-AP10/C-61A (12", 909cfm, @6.8A) and be more than ok. I don't know if the Speeduino has the capacity to stagger when it brings fans in, worth a look. atlex would be interested to hear your thoughts on this one please? |
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Post by atlex on Jul 21, 2021 9:58:00 GMT
I settled on the following fan.. SPAL VA10-AP50/C-61A 12V 1226 cfm Fan (12.7A max draw) since I wanted to run a single fan.
The way I think about this - the fan matters mostly if you're at a stand-still - these fans will never draw as much air as your car moving at 30mph+
Compare your hand out the window at those speeds with your hand behind the fan while it is on. the car moving produces far more flow. The fan is there to effectively make the radiator feel as if the car is always going at at least 15 mph through the air.
The stock fan was probably overkill and japan gets _really_ hot in summer. You can get away with smaller fans unless you have some weird driving habits (commuting through slow traffic all the time) or live in a really extreme temperature location - I'm talking sahara, not mainland europe.
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Post by Zed. on Jul 21, 2021 10:30:46 GMT
The fan is there to effectively make the radiator feel as if the car is always going at at least 15 mph through the air. *Suitable ducting dependant* if theres no low-pressure area behind the radiator any air will take the path of least resistance & if that is not through the radiator.....  also, a fan mounted onto a radiator will only draw air through it's footprint, the coolant is hotter @ the top of the rad etc.... Rich. |
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Post by scottydugg on Jul 21, 2021 10:47:57 GMT
I settled on the following fan.. SPAL VA10-AP50/C-61A 12V 1226 cfm Fan (12.7A max draw) since I wanted to run a single fan. The way I think about this - the fan matters mostly if you're at a stand-still - these fans will never draw as much air as your car moving at 30mph+ Compare your hand out the window at those speeds with your hand behind the fan while it is on. the car moving produces far more flow. The fan is there to effectively make the radiator feel as if the car is always going at at least 15 mph through the air. The stock fan was probably overkill and japan gets _really_ hot in summer. You can get away with smaller fans unless you have some weird driving habits (commuting through slow traffic all the time) or live in a really extreme temperature location - I'm talking sahara, not mainland europe. Thanks atlex , perfect, I had actually looked at that one and was considering it. Obviously if you're managing in Spain with it, I should be ok in Scotland, it's a good enough starting point anyway and I'll have the aftermarket temp gauge to keep an eye on things. I've also got a few other things I'm considering that should hopefully help with cooling. I'll take it you're just wired in on the stock setup? no wiring/fuse/relay changes? Appreciate the help everyone. |
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le sigh