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Post by scottydugg on Oct 11, 2021 11:10:53 GMT
Some good news, the gauge pods and gauges are now installed. Took a couple of attempts to get the paint right, but they are in and they're solid.  PSX_20211010_223948 by Scott Reid, on Flickr  PSX_20211010_224044 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Just in the early stages of mocking up a harness to run these on, the AEM UEGO Wideband wires in the engine bay but the stack gauges will run off the DIY harness. Trying my first attempts at soldering. My Mishimoto rad has just turned up and it's in really good condition, so that'll go on at some point, contemplating leaning it back now to accommodate over the rad IC pipework. I also need to check my IACV wiring as I suspect there's a dodgy connection somewhere, causing my rough cold idle, hopefully get this sorted before the auto-solo on the 31st. |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 1, 2021 10:41:26 GMT
Not too much to report, still travelling a lot for work so time on the 5 is scarce, unfortunately with bad weather I gave the autocross a miss. I think after fitting the clutch I need to re-check my PPF , I tried setting it to the required amount but with the chassis braces there was a bit of guess work in there, it's an uprated performance clutch so when moving the car around at slow speeds, dipping the clutch give a drivetrain lash sound (if that makes sense). Anyone with chassis braces know the correct measurement? Anyway, fitted up the IL motorsport bonnet lifters without any issues, good mod certainly worth doing:  PSX_20211031_011532 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Also started swapping in the DIY-EFI ECU into a spare stock casing, old vs new:  IMG_20211031_151452 by Scott Reid, on Flickr As per other posts, the superchargers kits been sold this week, so the plan is to go turbocharged. I'll do a bit more research and get a plan put together. |
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Post by atlex on Nov 1, 2021 21:54:54 GMT
I've heard great things about the DIY-EFI :-)
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 2, 2021 13:22:07 GMT
I've heard great things about the DIY-EFI :-) Yeah the guy was good to deal with, all the tuners I've spoken to are happy to tune on it also. Only thing I'm not sure about is if I need EBC or not and how I'd plug that all in. Got the IAT loom and the MAF delete harness to go on as well from DIY-EFI, keep everything nice and tidy. From my research I think the following is the current plan: - TD04-13T Turbo (from an Impreza) trying to find a good one from Ebay, they don't seem as cheap as they once were.
- G19 Manifold and downpipe.
- BOFI Intercooler kit.
To run with the parts I already have: - Serviced yellow RX-8 injectors (420cc).
- DIY-EFI ECU
Ideally a second hand kit comes up for sale, if not I'm going to look into black Friday deals (BOFI/BlackCat/ME etc.) Welcome any input, it's this forum that's made me go turbo so we're all in this together  |
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Post by atlex on Nov 2, 2021 14:31:19 GMT
EBC is good and will get you from say, just under 190hp to a little over 220hp (ATW)
of course, it depends on the tune.
EBC - you're going to want a pierberg solenoid 'normally open' type. they are really common.
the naff way to wire it in, which is how mine is done, is a button which interrupts the circuit to the solenoid valve.
the good way to wire it is is a button to the ECU to tell it to turn on the boost control 'pwm' solenoid driver or not, but, if you don't have the inputs available, the naff way is fine.
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Post by boggissimo on Nov 2, 2021 16:07:22 GMT
I'll be following this closely! Still considering whether to do homebrew ITBs (a la Bilbo) or sod it and go turbo. I have an old TD04 in the garage from my dead WRX, and some RX8 injectors I picked up for a rainy day, so I'm almost halfway there!  |
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Post by Zed. on Nov 2, 2021 17:09:40 GMT
I'll be following this closely! Still considering whether to do homebrew ITBs (a la Bilbo ) or sod it and go turbo. DO IT  Rich. |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 3, 2021 8:52:41 GMT
EBC is good and will get you from say, just under 190hp to a little over 220hp (ATW) of course, it depends on the tune. EBC - you're going to want a pierberg solenoid 'normally open' type. they are really common. the naff way to wire it in, which is how mine is done, is a button which interrupts the circuit to the solenoid valve. the good way to wire it is is a button to the ECU to tell it to turn on the boost control 'pwm' solenoid driver or not, but, if you don't have the inputs available, the naff way is fine. Ok thanks, I'll be sure to pick one of those up. In terms of wiring it up, I'm utterly clueless, I can find plenty for Megasquirt/ME info but nothing for a Speeduino/idiots guide. I'll need to do a bit more reading, had a look at the MiataTurbo guide explaining all of the aspects of going turbo so pretty comfortable with what I need to get. "the naff way to wire it in, which is how mine is done, is a button which interrupts the circuit to the solenoid valve" the solenoid needs wired directly into the ECU? Take it I need to check if the ECU is setup for receiving such an input? |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 3, 2021 8:55:41 GMT
I'll be following this closely! Still considering whether to do homebrew ITBs (a la Bilbo ) or sod it and go turbo. I have an old TD04 in the garage from my dead WRX, and some RX8 injectors I picked up for a rainy day, so I'm almost halfway there! If you want to get rid of the TD04 let me know. I'll keep this up to date with everything I find out along the way. |
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Post by atlex on Nov 3, 2021 12:45:14 GMT
EBC is good and will get you from say, just under 190hp to a little over 220hp (ATW) of course, it depends on the tune. EBC - you're going to want a pierberg solenoid 'normally open' type. they are really common. the naff way to wire it in, which is how mine is done, is a button which interrupts the circuit to the solenoid valve. the good way to wire it is is a button to the ECU to tell it to turn on the boost control 'pwm' solenoid driver or not, but, if you don't have the inputs available, the naff way is fine. Ok thanks, I'll be sure to pick one of those up. In terms of wiring it up, I'm utterly clueless, I can find plenty for Megasquirt/ME info but nothing for a Speeduino/idiots guide. I'll need to do a bit more reading, had a look at the MiataTurbo guide explaining all of the aspects of going turbo so pretty comfortable with what I need to get. "the naff way to wire it in, which is how mine is done, is a button which interrupts the circuit to the solenoid valve" the solenoid needs wired directly into the ECU? Take it I need to check if the ECU is setup for receiving such an input? the ECU has a PWM driver output (pulse width modulator) which sends appropriate power to the solenoid valve to close for the correct amount of time so that the wastegate remains shut, allowing for more boost and/or quicker spool. the on/off button that interrupts the circuit is just that. |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 3, 2021 17:08:48 GMT
Managed to find this HERE and it's filled in a few of the gaps I had. Going by what he's done I need to jump a connection in the ECU, but I can utilise the purge valve connection in the engine for both the signal/ground and 12V Switched. Not too sure my newly found soldering (saudering as all the yanks say in these videos) skills are up to my ECU. Seems you can use one of the spares at the MAF sensor for the signal to the ECU, that's be easier from a packaging standpoint. Will update with more info once I have it. |
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Post by atlex on Nov 3, 2021 21:01:37 GMT
Managed to find this HERE and it's filled in a few of the gaps I had. Going by what he's done I need to jump a connection in the ECU, but I can utilise the purge valve connection in the engine for both the signal/ground and 12V Switched. Not too sure my newly found soldering (saudering as all the yanks say in these videos) skills are up to my ECU. Seems you can use one of the spares at the MAF sensor for the signal to the ECU, that's be easier from a packaging standpoint. Will update with more info once I have it. Have some faith. Make sure the iron is hot before you try  and use leaded rosin-core solder. You can always desolder if you don't like the joint you made. |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 4, 2021 10:35:37 GMT
Managed to find this HERE and it's filled in a few of the gaps I had. Going by what he's done I need to jump a connection in the ECU, but I can utilise the purge valve connection in the engine for both the signal/ground and 12V Switched. Not too sure my newly found soldering (saudering as all the yanks say in these videos) skills are up to my ECU. Seems you can use one of the spares at the MAF sensor for the signal to the ECU, that's be easier from a packaging standpoint. Will update with more info once I have it. Have some faith. Make sure the iron is hot before you try and use leaded rosin-core solder. You can always desolder if you don't like the joint you made. Core-4 DIY-EFI is pre-wired/setup to run the boost controller on the Evap. Purge Valve plug. Just had confirmation through, some good news, can't fault this ECU or service it's been great so far. We'll never know how far my soldering skills can go (wrong). |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 9, 2021 10:15:29 GMT
Since I fitted the mk2 throttle body, the cold idle has been utterly crap, spent some time over the weekend hunting to fault find any of my electrical conntections (as you've to swap to mk2 loom plugs). Found what I thought was the source, dodgy crimp:  IMG_20211106_180829 by Scott Reid, on Flickr After fixing that however, the next day it hadn't improved, since I'm swapping rads and no longer going S/C so no longer over the rad with the intercooler, I thought I'd swap back to the mk1 TB since I'd be in there anyway. I've used blade crimps so I can swap pack should it not work either, maybe the aftermarket ECU will fix all my issues. Not the tidiest, but everything's out the way for now, still learning how to do wiring.  IMG_20211107_145912 by Scott Reid, on Flickr I've split cut my top rad hose to accommodate the temp sensor for my STACK gauge, fitted in new rad using the holes that drop it down slightly, seems to fit well I can run the stock fan if I want to, I just need to check where the intercooler hose routes through on the BOFI kit, otherwise it'll be the SPAL fan:  IMG_20211107_145909 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Had a quick check if I've an oil feed from the block for a turbo, answer is yes, bottom right bolt in this picture:  IMG_20211107_204714 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Posted in the other thread, but the complete supercharger kits sold, managed to find a robust turbo kit for a good price which I've sent the money through for. I'll update with the kit spec when I get it. Car might not go back on the ground N/A if I feel especially lucky, we'll see how things transpire. |
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 19, 2021 13:14:43 GMT
Right, where to start, as above the supercharger sold a lot faster than I was expecting so was boxed up and shipped to a guy in Wales. With project car money sat burning a hole in my pocket a fairly complete turbo kit popped up so managed to haggle a deal for all the key parts I needed (already have a wideband etc.). So the kit consists of the following parts: - Flyin Miata Cast Manifold and Downpipe Connection
- 2.5" downpipe
- RC Injectors
- Turbo Coolant Lines
- Turbo Oil Feed/Return Lines
- Garrett GT2554R
So when not buying new there's always good and bad, I always like to start with the bad: - The manifold has got a slight crack in it, which has had a repair at some stage, I'm going to put it to the local engineering company I use and get a repair carried out. It's on the top side of the manifold so I can keep an eye on it.
- The Turbo hasn't been clocked to what I need as it was run on a mk2 not a mk1, I'm guessing it could be a chew to get it loose enough to clock.
- The downpipe is a homebrew so has 2 exhaust bungs, I think the one I need might just need cleared out but I need to investigate a bit more. It does have a flexi so it's not all bad news.
Crack in the manifold:  IMG_20211118_200219 by Scott Reid, on Flickr So the good news: - The turbo, which I thought at one stage could have been a GT2540 (old HKS unit), is actually a ball bearing GT2554R (Model No.: 836023 5001S), with little to no shaft play at all/no internal damage.
- The RC 440cc Injectors, are actually RC PL8-550 so 550cc units , the plan is to get these cleaned and flow tested.
- I've got literally all of the fittings for coolant/oil lines, even if they do need cleaned up a little.
- There is a FM intake heat-shield the seller forgot to post which is being sent separately.
- Came with the tap for the oil return for the sump, just need the drill bit
So what's the plan now, there's a couple parts that need replaced or sourced over the next couple weeks: - Get the injectors cleaned and flow tested.
- Replace the oil infeed line, feed from side of block rather than oil pressure sender, like the line supplied with the kit.
- Pick up an intercooler kit in the black Friday sales.
- Source mounting studs for turbo/manifold and turbo/down pipe (I was thinking of going to BlackCatMotorsport).
- Research and source restrictor for Turbo oil infeed.
- Get an new exhaust manifold gasket (already got all the turbo gaskets).
- Figure out and source turbo actuator relocation once clocked turbo.
- Heat shield for heater core engine bay pipes. (anyone got any recommendations?)
Anyway, there's a lot there to digest, I'll update with more once I've had more of a poke about to see what's what.
Already organised for the manifold to be dropped off for repair ASAP to make sure it's not a lemon.
Not going to be the greatest of kits ever fitted or the fastest car, but a good starting point with plenty in it if I wish/need to upgrade parts in the future (i.e. GT2560 etc.).
Edit: Glad I checked, appears the FM manifolds been drilled out to M10x1.5, bit of an odd size to try find some Inconel studs but I think I've found some in Oz.
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and use leaded rosin-core solder. You can always desolder if you don't like the joint you made.
le sigh