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Post by scottydugg on Nov 26, 2021 12:53:52 GMT
Managed some time on the car last night, got a second hand Mazda A/C fan, going to wire this in as additional cooling on the A/C button. Decided to stick to OEM over the SPAL unit in this instance. Getting the rad back in was a bit of a chew but got it eventually, longer bolts was the trick.  PSX_20211125_234610 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Fitted in the temp sensor housing into the top rad hose, it's a bit tight, I don' think it'll leak but will find out on start up. Space with the 2 fans back in and an aftermarket rad in place:  IMG_20211125_221419 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Didn't manage a startup last night as it was too late by the time I was done, don't want to annoy the neighbours. Looks like the coolant capacity is up over the standard rad. I'd rather go this route than the coolant re-route, I think I'd go oil cooler before I went coolant re-route. Since I couldn't start the car, decided to spend some time on the turbo kit, managed to remove all the leftover studs (2 were pretty bent), all the hot-side bolts loosened off on the turbo itself but it wouldn't clock by hand (no surprise), also tried the snap ring on the cold side, it snapped my pliers so I need to get some heavy duty ones instead. The sensor that came with the downpipe is stuck solid, tried: heat, penetrating fluid, brute force etc. etc.  IMG_20211125_205451 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Shall persevere, this is the sort of stuff that makes a project go on forever! |
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Post by moclan on Nov 26, 2021 22:15:03 GMT
Read somewhere about melting wax, like candle wax, down the threads … never tried this myself
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Post by boggissimo on Nov 29, 2021 9:50:22 GMT
Open ended spanner inside a bit of pipe, for leverage?
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Post by scottydugg on Nov 29, 2021 13:44:16 GMT
I've bought a lamda socket so I can try my breaker bar (and scaffold pole) and/or my impact gun (on full ugga duggas).
Also the boss that I want to use is the wrong thread pitch, so I've bought a tap to try rethread it as a cheap option.
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Post by scottydugg on Dec 2, 2021 22:51:53 GMT
Small victories, that's what it's all about. Chosen tool for this job, there was a choice of 2...which one worked? Have a guess:  IMG_20211202_212825 by Scott Reid, on Flickr If you guessed the scaffold pole and breaker bar, pat yourself on the back. I thought I'd rounded the sensor nut, but it was actually spinning, just.  IMG_20211202_212810 by Scott Reid, on Flickr  IMG_20211202_212815 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Not in the best of condition, some more good news, turns out both bosses in the downpipe are both M18x1.5, so I don't need to mess about with re-tapping (I was just being a massive Jessie worrying about stripping threads). So, what next, I'm waiting on my Inconel studs arriving from the land of Aus., I'll get the down pipe studs (all 9 of them) ordered shortly, but I'm not going Inconel with them just yet. I still need to find some large circlip pliers to clock the cold side of the turbo, anyone got any suggestions? |
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Post by Zed. on Dec 2, 2021 23:10:58 GMT
hard to tell from the photo but...  is that a radial crack in the weld?  or do I need new glasses  Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Dec 2, 2021 23:48:57 GMT
or the welder forgot to tap the slag peal off ? mmmmm...
guessing the breaker bar because the exhaust was too willing to absorb the impacts.
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Post by scottydugg on Dec 3, 2021 0:46:48 GMT
hard to tell from the photo but... is that a radial crack in the weld? or do I need new glasses Rich.  Screenshot_20211203_004253_com.android.gallery3d by Scott Reid, on Flickr Looks like weld overlap? Best way to check, file it back and stick a light behind it? or the welder forgot to tap the slag peal off ? mmmmm... guessing the breaker bar because the exhaust was too willing to absorb the impacts. Indeed, the impact did have a failing battery on it though, so not all bad news. |
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Post by scottydugg on Dec 20, 2021 12:49:15 GMT
Back on everyone's favourite, the gauge pod install, a great way to waste a lot of time for what looks like not a lot. Started the night before, by stripping out the interior, the old crash pad has never fit correctly and it peeled off far too easily, I don't think it was in any of the little snap fittings that hold it in place and the adhesive was well past it.  IMG_20211218_225017 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Next day, started by cutting the clearance in the dash for the gauges/gauges pods to sit. Thought I'd try my Dremel with a cutting disc, but after 5 discs and not making a dent the hole saw was rolled out again. Picture shows part way through the process, there's a support plate that you need to remove in order to fit gauges here, which you can get out through the hole you cut.  IMG_20211219_162302 by Scott Reid, on Flickr End result, test fitted the crash pad, had to clearance it in stages, but the final test I struggled to get it back out, so that's a good sign. Rubbish photo for now, but I'll get a better one later. This does mean that I need to add some connections into my mock up loom to clear some of the internal dash structure, but that's easily done.  IMG_20211219_185815 by Scott Reid, on Flickr I think I'm either going to pull the switched 12V from the cigarette lighter or the fuse box in the drivers foot-well. I've also to swap out the HVAC unit for an A/C unit, to utilise the A/C fan for additional cooling. |
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Post by dadbif on Dec 20, 2021 13:22:03 GMT
That looks nice
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Post by scottydugg on Jan 5, 2022 16:34:34 GMT
Happy new year everyone, what's a good way to start the year, finish your gauge install, who knew. So where did it start:  IMG_20211229_164840 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Hole in the dash was complete and clearanced, I'd mocked up what I thought was the final harness (it wasn't). Started by re-doing at least 2/3's of the harness to accommodate where splits would be required to clearance internal dash structure. I've pulled my 12v switched illumination circuit and GND, from the ashtray light plug, which has been deleted in the process as I never used it. 12V switched Live has come from the electric window switch as this is in the same area and handy for running my harness under the radio, this this runs to the boost/Temp gauge and also to the wideband, both with an in-line 5A fuse. Also installed an A/C HVAC unit so I can incorporate some additional cooling (currently this doesn't work so I'll need to do some fault finding). YOu'll also see I had to notch some of the dash support, as my Stack gauge is a lot deeper than anticipated, it's still solid even with the notch, but not ideal.  IMG_20220102_215632 by Scott Reid, on Flickr I've also got a signal wire coming from the aftermarket temp sensor I installed a couple weeks ago. All wires have been fed through an old A/C line grommet that sits near where the original washer bottle is located. Also through the bulkhead is the ground, white and brown wire for the wideband, lambda sensor harness also for the wideband and currently a vac line for the boost gauge. I'll run a second vac line for the ECU through the remaining redundant A/C grommet to the right of the one currently used.  IMG_20220104_142402 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Still a bit of a wiring mess, but I want to prove it all works before I tidy it up. Used Corders thread to figure out the correct wiring for the Wideband/Lambda wires (thanks again). So without the Lambda attached, this is what we end up with:  IMG_20220102_223509 by Scott Reid, on Flickr  IMG_20220103_153758 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Both Stack gauges illuminate with the side lights being turned on, also hooked up the boost gauge and it shows vacuum at idle, quick video below (just click on it) showing it all working:  VID_20220103_201426 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Lastly, connected up the ECU, outside of the car, to see if it'll connect with TunerStudio...great success, DIY-EFI uploaded the 1.8 map already so it should effectively go straight in and start up (in a perfect world).  IMG_20220102_171509_edit_472614927975800 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Also mocked up my AFM replacement, with an adapter and GM temp sensor. Had to buy a pin crimper just to get this to work, bit fiddly but YouTube to the rescue:  IMG_20220102_183557 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Intention is to glue the crash pad back in position, once the ambient temperature gets back into double figures. Then get the ECU in and try start it, I've got a local guy lined up for a road tune to tide me over until I can start fitting up the Turbo kit. So that's where it's at, hopefully more progress soon. Currently I can't start it until I get the ECU in place ( reminder to self, don't try to start it!). |
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Post by zoona on Jan 5, 2022 22:49:47 GMT
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Post by scottydugg on Jan 6, 2022 8:45:14 GMT
No hadn't bought anything yet, I did have them saved to buy later, but wasn't sure they'd be up to the task. I'll get some bought now thank you! |
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Post by scottydugg on Jan 12, 2022 8:31:48 GMT
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Post by scottydugg on Jan 17, 2022 13:47:53 GMT
Gauges now glued in place, started to tidy up the wiring behind the dash, ran an extra vac line for the ECU.  IMG_20220116_170329 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Everything still works, just need to make sure there are no rattles.  IMG_20220116_170414 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Turbo manifold also back from the machine shop, not the prettiest but looks solid, I think the crack went further than I thought. They've also skimmed all of the surfaces.  uptest_full_6856091 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Good timing, as the Inconel M10x1.5 studs arrived from Australia finally, ordered these late November. Dropped off the turbo compressor when I picked up the manifold, as I need an extra M6 hole drilled for relocating the actuator, managed to use one of the pre-existing holes for the other side thankfully. |
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le sigh