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Post by Whistler on Jul 26, 2018 7:42:37 GMT
Looking good.
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Post by niklas on Jul 26, 2018 17:32:11 GMT
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Post by niklas on Jul 27, 2018 13:45:23 GMT
Alignment done. Went from hillarious to good. I also put the hardtop on the car. With it on, the sound level inside increased a lot. Resonance box. Tolerable, but not especially comfy. Gets better at high rpm's, most of it courtesy of the awr engine mounts. I gave it a quick wash, again confirming that the paint is horrible. Some day I will spend a night trying to get it better, but I fear a new paint job is the real solution. Oh well, learning how to do that could be fun. Later.
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Post by zoona on Jul 29, 2018 20:20:00 GMT
Have you used those tyres before?
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Post by niklas on Jul 29, 2018 21:43:58 GMT
Nope, It will be a first for me. Hopefully they will suit me and the car. And fit.
Anyways, went out tuning / hooning about. even @ 131kpa (actually 140kpa up top) its fast. Like, not as fast as my old engine @ 200kpa, but something like 6 sek to 100km/h or so fast. That the ms logs full boost before I manage to press the accelerator to the floor if starting over 2k rpm helps. There is no lag. no lag at all at this low boost level. It feels something like a roots blower. I really need to get a boost log from 1k rpm when its been to the dyno.
In bad news: I have a misfire. irregular. However, the plugs have their oem gaps at 1.1mm, and that is way too much for boost. Good news: After I've really gave it some beans, resulting in a blue cloud, it didnt come back. the engines tone also changed. I believe I may have smoked out the last of the oil in the exhaust from the failure of the old engine. Or perhaps the rings just went ahead and sealed properly now that I gave it full load. I don't know, but nothing seems broken and it is running great. I still need to get to fixing the idle though. It seems like a combined software and mechanical problem. those are fun. Until I can be bothered. 1100 rpms is my idle.
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Post by Whistler on Jul 30, 2018 16:08:26 GMT
I really like the race style front of your car. I have plans for a road going race spec something, but it won't happen this year.
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jack
New Here
Posts: 10
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Post by jack on Jul 30, 2018 19:54:08 GMT
Awesome tyres, was looking at getting some in that exact size but they're £170 a corner! Don't think I can justify twice the price over 195 section tyres.
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Post by niklas on Jul 30, 2018 21:42:26 GMT
I got a good price having an importer friend. Came out slightly cheaper for me. He is competitive in his pricing. Whistler: the air dam is a simple solution to the drag problem, I also like the rocknroll look of the thing it gets better with the splitter imho, I cant really decide if this is pure track/race car or a dual duty one To get it in any reasonable class has gotten hard though. Too much engine.
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Post by niklas on Jul 31, 2018 18:06:24 GMT
The damned blue smoke hasn't gone away. So I checked the intercooler piping. Oil. From a new (although bought 2 years ago) gtx2863r. Crap.
But thinking about it, I effectively have a closed crank case at boost now. That doesnt do wonders for the oil return. Or anything else really. So I guess I'll weld the turbo intake piping a little and use that for crank case vacuum instead of the intake manifold.
Sometimes I make big problems out of small ones. That the turbo spools instantly should be a good thing in that regard. The catch can is effective, so I shouldnt gunk up the intake too much
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Post by niklas on Aug 2, 2018 16:40:22 GMT
So, after cleaning the intake piping I went ahead and built myself some legal, closed crank case ventilation to the intake piping after the filter. I first verified that I didn't get any blue smoke with VTA, and I didn't. As before. Glorious brain fart to think that I could ventilate enough to the intake manifold. Oh well, heed my warning: crankcase ventilation at all times is important (duh). I welded a 10 an fitting to the intake pipe. It then got another fitting and its inside cleaned off. Some other fittings and a hose later I had a perfectly working crank case ventilation system thanks to the davefab catch can. It does its job well, so I don't expect any droplets, just fumes. A lot of hassle and some added weight. But I like to keep the car legal. I hope the system is enough at high boost. I'll find out soon.
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Post by niklas on Aug 8, 2018 15:28:53 GMT
Sailed through MOT (swedish equivalent). I really need to change the right front brake cooling hose. It's totally thrashed. Next step, change all oils and prepare for dyno
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Post by niklas on Aug 9, 2018 16:13:33 GMT
Changed all oils today. Redline all through. 75w90 in the diff, mt90 in the box and 15w-50 race oil in the engine. The engine oil is for a couple of thousand kilometers only, after that I will change to something more avaliable. The ceiling in my home garage is not too high, I guess I'm limited to quick jack for a lift. Had help, a good thing doing boring service like this When it came to the diff, it became apparent that the fuji super doesn't appreciate all the torqe I've been putting through it. This was on the magnetic plug. No other noises and nothing out of the ordinary apart from this though, so it stays on for now. If anyone has a used kaaz, preferably 3.3:1 they want to get rid of, send me a message
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Post by atlex on Aug 9, 2018 17:02:17 GMT
That or get a nice T1/T2 torsen^ those tabs falling off are fairly standed from the "super toguchi (?)" and they mean that it won't lock up properly in future. Man your air filter is big
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Post by niklas on Aug 9, 2018 20:05:50 GMT
Isn't the fuji basically a torsen with extra friction pads? As in, if the pads fail its still a torsen?
I used to run a torsen2 4.1:1, the gearing got way to short with the 6spd and 250whp+ To be fair, even the fujis 3.6:1 is a bit short.
My air filter is small. I have a k&n of double the size on a shelf. But I can't get that in there if i want to keep the power steering and over the rad intercooler pipe setup. I really hope that this filter doesn't restrict too much when i start to dial in the big boost.
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jon
Chats A Lot
Posts: 270
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Post by jon on Aug 9, 2018 20:08:23 GMT
The Fuji will revert to being an open diff once all the bits break off - normally there's more than that... I swapped a Type1 Torsen core into mine...
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