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Post by atlex on Aug 5, 2021 22:26:36 GMT
The ECU was literally installed 'dangling' by the previous owner so I've got some ali right angle bracket stock to turn into ECU mounting hardware.
yay.
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Post by dadbif on Aug 6, 2021 21:29:30 GMT
Do you have a Leroy Merlin nearby, or a decent ferreteria?
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Post by atlex on Aug 6, 2021 21:58:55 GMT
Do you have a Leroy Merlin nearby, or a decent ferreteria? Leroy JENKIINS! Angle bracket's in to keep the ECU in the right spot. Looks good. Drives oem. I've ditched the disgusting low-low-low-grade gauge cluster I had now and reduced the wiring mess. Happy Days. |
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Post by swordspork on Aug 7, 2021 8:51:13 GMT
Gief more pics
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Post by atlex on Aug 16, 2021 20:04:11 GMT
Funny review from where I grew up  |
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Post by atlex on Aug 19, 2021 21:46:14 GMT
I've just got one obvious vibration to fix and it's just behind my right ear and I'm already looking to get a kpro ecu  |
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Post by atlex on Oct 14, 2021 15:17:11 GMT
News from here.
I've put in some solid shifter bushings and replaced the red cloth seats with spare 'copillock' black cloth ones. Much cleaner looking.
Now to test drive it. I'll BRB.
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Post by atlex on Oct 14, 2021 19:35:03 GMT
New seats cushions are a firm improvement. I vacuumed the carpets quite seriously and also retapped some of the more rusty captive nuts for the rails. Swapping the seat cusshions was not fun, there's a back recliner tensioner bar thing that has to be perfect alligned. There's no documented method of doing it other than just trying to do it, afaict. Solid shifter bushings have taken all the play out of the cabin side of the shifter setup. There's still resistance getting from 5 or 6 to 3rd - but it isn't synchros, I think, since I can replicate this hesitation without the car moving or engine turning. Sometimes it goes in, sometimes it doesn't. I should just get used to going 4->3 and live with it |
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Post by wannabe on Oct 14, 2021 20:50:11 GMT
Can you get round the issue with a double-declutch or just taking a slower change?
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Post by atlex on Oct 14, 2021 21:07:18 GMT
double clutching seems to work but I almost never do it :-) need to get used to it. that said having driven with the ep3 k20 gearbox I have caught myself wanting to shift to 6th on other cars where that's reverse... |
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Post by Zed. on Oct 14, 2021 21:18:31 GMT
There's still resistance getting from 5 or 6 to 3rd - but it isn't synchros, I think, since I can replicate this hesitation without the car moving or engine turning. Sometimes it goes in, sometimes it doesn't. I should just get used to going 4->3 and live with it change gearoil? also what gearbox & gearchange linkage? A badly matched and routed cable linkage will be a nightmare  . added to your comment re. ecu dangling I'd question the build quality  Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Oct 14, 2021 21:29:59 GMT
I've done the gearbox oil in the last 100 miles it made it slightly less notchy but the random resistance is the same. double declutching does work though. I'm on one of the standard k-swap linkages, there's two and I've forgotten which one it is heh. I suspect I need to attend to the bushes thereabouts. ECU is no longer dangling everything works. |
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Post by swordspork on Oct 15, 2021 7:50:16 GMT
I had the same thing on my ep3. Unless you were perfectly lined up getting 3rd gear could sometimes be troublesome.
Changing the gearbox oil helped a great deal but this was done when the clutch was changed so I don't know if anything else assisted in improving it.
Have you pulled the trigger on the kpro yet?
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Post by atlex on Oct 15, 2021 9:05:44 GMT
I had the same thing on my ep3. Unless you were perfectly lined up getting 3rd gear could sometimes be troublesome. Changing the gearbox oil helped a great deal but this was done when the clutch was changed so I don't know if anything else assisted in improving it. Have you pulled the trigger on the kpro yet? Aye the K-Pro is sitting here waiting on some other parts to turn up. I meant to write the new MTF3 oil made is slightly _less_ notchy but only barely (it wasn't really notchy to start with). The old GB oil that came out looked quite clean. But I know the MTF3 has a 20K mile change interval or so. I'd like to change to something higher grade there one day depending on what is available in you-rope. Since I can simulate the 3rd gear hesitancy without even the engine on or wheels moving, I've got a vague chance with someone else in the cockpit to watch the mechanism and work out what's at play. |
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Post by atlex on Feb 5, 2022 17:55:46 GMT
So the pile is nearly finished for the engine bolt-on power upgrade
Hondata Kpro V4 & AEM X-series wideband
Honda RRC Intake manifold (still needs cutting and port matching for the throttlebody)
Honda (denso) RDX 410CC injectors (the VTECBOI equivalent of the yellow RX8 ones)
70MM Tegiwa throttlebody & New TPS sensor.
Hondata thermal intake-to-head gasket (used to show where to cut the RRC as well as to actually use for the install)
P2R Throttlebody gasket (which I'll cut to allow for the IACV airflow)
A Gates-made Mercedes GLK 350 intake air guide which happens to fit perfectly up in the side intakes.
Last bit I need to order is an ITG Maxogen airbox/filter which will sit in between the GLK air guide and the 70mm Tegiwa throttlebody.
Thinking ARAB65 or ARAB80 with the 80mm outlet (the 70mm TEGIWA TB is 80mm od on the inlet)
The RRC intake manifold is about 4CM more proud towards the MR2's firewall and there's probably only 5mm space there atm.
When it comes to installation I'll need to drop the engine out the car a bit to swap out intake manifolds and mallet-massage the firewall so the RRC fits.
But before I even look at installing bits it needs to get through the ITV, which is taking some bloody time. Spanish time is slow-paced.
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. added to your comment re. ecu dangling I'd question the build quality 
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT