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Post by Zed. on Mar 23, 2022 16:33:50 GMT
I only spiked myself with the braid a couple of times...  Rich. |
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Post by howardb66 on Mar 24, 2022 7:33:55 GMT
I only spiked myself with the braid a couple of times...  Rich. I got excited when I saw Zed.. had commented on this thread. Thought the car building had started🤪 |
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Post by boggissimo on Mar 24, 2022 10:34:15 GMT
Don't know why I didn't think of it before, as I had the same issue when fitting bigger brakes on my Subaru last year - the dust shields get in the way of the bigger discs. Will probably hack/bend them out of the way rather than spending £60 on new ones and having to take the hubs off to change them over.
Also had a closer look at the brake pipe connections where they join the hard pipes, the OEM ones appear to be fixed into the junctions (3-way block on the offside, straight connection on the nearside) rather than unscrewable, so does that mean I need to get a new junction block when I take out the OEM rubber pipe? Anyone know what size/thread the hard pipe ends are?
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Post by scottydugg on Mar 24, 2022 13:59:56 GMT
Don't know why I didn't think of it before, as I had the same issue when fitting bigger brakes on my Subaru last year - the dust shields get in the way of the bigger discs. Will probably hack/bend them out of the way rather than spending £60 on new ones and having to take the hubs off to change them over. Also had a closer look at the brake pipe connections where they join the hard pipes, the OEM ones appear to be fixed into the junctions (3-way block on the offside, straight connection on the nearside) rather than unscrewable, so does that mean I need to get a new junction block when I take out the OEM rubber pipe? Anyone know what size/thread the hard pipe ends are? I've got a pair of rear braided lines, new, never used that I can do a deal on if you want. I lost them then had to buy a whole new set so they're no use to me. |
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Post by boggissimo on Mar 24, 2022 14:08:10 GMT
Don't know why I didn't think of it before, as I had the same issue when fitting bigger brakes on my Subaru last year - the dust shields get in the way of the bigger discs. Will probably hack/bend them out of the way rather than spending £60 on new ones and having to take the hubs off to change them over. Also had a closer look at the brake pipe connections where they join the hard pipes, the OEM ones appear to be fixed into the junctions (3-way block on the offside, straight connection on the nearside) rather than unscrewable, so does that mean I need to get a new junction block when I take out the OEM rubber pipe? Anyone know what size/thread the hard pipe ends are? I've got a pair of rear braided lines, new, never used that I can do a deal on if you want. I lost them then had to buy a whole new set so they're no use to me. Could be tempted yep - do they have the right ends to connect to the hard lines? |
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Post by dickie on Mar 24, 2022 16:46:56 GMT
I think the flexible pipe goes into the block on the right hand side and the left hand side joins into the end of the hard pipe so the block gets left alone.
I will have a look at mine a bit later as its up on axle stands My job for today is to put it back on the floor so I car drive it to work tommorow and see how loud the new exhaust really is.
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Post by dickie on Mar 24, 2022 17:16:45 GMT
Guess what I was wrong !!!!
The braided hose for the right hand side is fixed to the block at manufacture.
The hard pipe to the master cylinder unscrews as does the hard pipe to the nearside.
So a braided line made up to the block will have to be made.
Unless you do a Zed and improvise by finding a Tee connector that will accept the hard pipes and the braided hose which will involve getting a headache.
Easier to but a new braided hose with the correct block on it.
Time to get the jacks out and put it on the floor again.
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Post by Zed. on Mar 24, 2022 17:33:31 GMT
I got excited when I saw Zed. . had commented on this thread. Thought the car building had started🤪 horlicks..... Anyone know what size/thread the hard pipe ends are? M10x1, standard.... Guess what I was wrong !!!! S hit happens do a Zed and improvise by finding a Tee connector that will accept the hard pipes and the braided hose which will involve getting a headache. muffled rummaging in shed noises...... buggerit, lazy so look on ebay cbs etc. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363581561896as example...  Rich. |
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Post by retrolaw on Mar 25, 2022 7:34:10 GMT
Finally managed to get these 14x6.5 et14.5 type B watanabe's fitted. Just need my zoom indicators to install this weekend that I've had laying around for months waiting till my wats arrived and were on |
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Post by boggissimo on Mar 25, 2022 9:10:32 GMT
Looks lovely retrolaw - my Eunos probably looked as white as yours once... Where did you get the filler cap? |
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Post by boggissimo on Mar 25, 2022 9:12:33 GMT
Anyone know what size/thread the hard pipe ends are? M10x1, standard.... do a Zed and improvise by finding a Tee connector that will accept the hard pipes and the braided hose which will involve getting a headache. muffled rummaging in shed noises...... buggerit, lazy so look on ebay cbs etc. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363581561896Yep I've been on CBS already and a three-way M10 should work for the block bit. Think I got the wrong union for the other side  |
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Post by retrolaw on Mar 25, 2022 12:22:15 GMT
Looks lovely retrolaw - my Eunos probably looked as white as yours once... Where did you get the filler cap? I picked it up from zoom engineering's website its a dangerous game when a Japanese aftermarket parts shop has a website that can deliver directly to the UK without the need of a proxy, still waiting some more parts from japan, namely a RS Hamada 60mm bore 70mm tip catback exhaust and a Maxim Works 1.8 Header, praying I get some stickers with it too Instead of just fitting it as is I ended up prepping it and painting it not too long ago. However I did notice not sure if I had a dodgy batch but the hinge itself has some play and causes some nice rattling when driving, will end up taking it apart at some point this weekend and clamp it in the vice or just try and tighten the hinge knuckle somehow   |
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Post by boggissimo on Mar 30, 2022 15:11:02 GMT
Was in the garage last night, planning to fit the new brake discs and pads, at least to the front, as I've not sorted the hoses out for the rear calipers yet. But then I decided it would be a good idea to use the drive-up ramps to raise the front, and jack/axle stands for the rear so I could do both ends before it goes back on its wheels. Once I'd got it up in the air I discovered that my jack then doesn't give enough clearance to lift the front any higher, so I couldn't take the ramps away to remove the wheels  Anyway, since it was off the ground and I'd wasted half an hour already, I decided to have another go at replacing the fuel filter. Managed to clamp the rubber lines fairly closed with mole grips, and wrestled the old filter out with a fair bit of grunting and swearing. Didn't see much gunge coming out of it, but put the new one in anyway as I've no idea how long the old one has been there. Didn't lose too much fuel either, partly cos the tank is virtually empty, and also because I disconnected the fuel pump relay while it was running to try to get the lines as clear as I could beforehand. Won't be rushing to do another one of those in a hurry, but I should probably get a new plastic cover for it, most of it was ripped off in my adventure to the ditch a few months back it seems. |
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Post by boggissimo on Mar 31, 2022 8:27:25 GMT
I got the front calipers off to change the discs last night, and found that on one side the rubber boot/seal for the piston had a massive hole in it, and the rubbers on the other side weren't looking too clever either. So, off to eBay for a rebuild kit on both sides...I can feel the deadline of 22 April (final 12 car rally of the season) looming already!
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Post by atlex on Mar 31, 2022 13:26:40 GMT
Been cleaning up the coolant reservoirs of my cars.
Having good luck with chlorine bleach solution to get the general thing whiter.
Dishwasher salt used as an abrasive medium and shaken about does wonders and has also done wonders on the MR2 coolant reservoir which happen to be baffled. Shake the salt into the baffled bit and go nuts like a spare on the set of a Boney M concert.
The otherwise white salt goes red with the gack and you them just shake it out, or rinse, or both.
I suspect rice would be less abrasive so safer but aye, it's 20-30 yo plastics and who cares about the fine finish as long as you can see the level easily.
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le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT