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Post by coravellar on Apr 6, 2019 16:31:10 GMT
I’ve never tried it on a MX5, but on other cars I’ve had a bit of copper slip on the back of the pad where it’s in contact the piston or mount normally stops squeal. Yeah, I tried that a few weeks' ago (but used ceramic grease instead of copper) but it didn't work  Some attribute of the compound I expect... |
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Post by wannabe on Apr 6, 2019 22:18:11 GMT
Replaced the brake pads today. The Hawks that were on there were brilliant but very squeaky when cold and it was getting on my nerves. Which compound were you running? I'm very please with my HP+ performance-wise, although I do like some squeal (because racecar)  lol |
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Post by coravellar on Apr 7, 2019 8:24:00 GMT
Replaced the brake pads today. The Hawks that were on there were brilliant but very squeaky when cold and it was getting on my nerves. Which compound were you running? I'm very please with my HP+ performance-wise, although I do like some squeal (because racecar) lol I don't know. My mechanic sourced and fitted them a few months ago. He's a racer too  I'd spent most weekends for the previous three months in a freezing cold garage working on the car. I needed a break and thought it would be a good idea to let a professional check her over!  |
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Crumpets
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Post by Crumpets on Apr 8, 2019 8:09:44 GMT
Found out the hard way that when you put a MK2 Rack and F-Subframe into a Mk1 - You will also need a MK2 Column also as the splines are different sizes on the rack output. |
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Post by wannabe on Apr 8, 2019 8:35:50 GMT
Found out the hard way that when you put a MK2 Rack and F-Subframe into a Mk1 - You will also need a MK2 Column also as the splines are different sizes on the rack output. Ooh, I've seen that conversion mentioned on one of the US forums but I've not seen much about it over here. Is it designed to improve the pick-up points for the things that attach to it / give more strength? IIRC the depowered Mk2 rack has a different arrangement and doesn't need welding?? |
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Crumpets
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Post by Crumpets on Apr 8, 2019 9:19:17 GMT
...I've not seen much about it over here. Likewise, finding information on it over here is hard, I read that a MK2 Front Subframe won't fit in a MK1, but mine slotted straight in without modification, all bolt holes lined up ok. ...Is it designed to improve the pick-up points for the things that attach to it / give more strength? I'm not sure on the purpose, I have read that it is for strength, it certainly is beefier. ...IIRC the depowered Mk2 rack has a different arrangement and doesn't need welding?? So I'm going from a Mk1 Subframe, Power rack + Column to a Mk2 Subframe, Power rack + Column (I suspect that the Mk2 lower part is needed and i hope will bolt onto the upper section of the Mk1) Mine required no welding at all, everything is bolt in once the right parts are acquired - Picking a Mk2 Column up this week - Here's for hoping ay? Will update on my build thread once it is all in as this kinda' info is handy for anyone who wants to do the same. |
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Post by wannabe on Apr 8, 2019 12:03:24 GMT
...I've not seen much about it over here. Likewise, finding information on it over here is hard, I read that a MK2 Front Subframe won't fit in a MK1, but mine slotted straight in without modification, all bolt holes lined up ok. ...Is it designed to improve the pick-up points for the things that attach to it / give more strength? I'm not sure on the purpose, I have read that it is for strength, it certainly is beefier. ...IIRC the depowered Mk2 rack has a different arrangement and doesn't need welding?? So I'm going from a Mk1 Subframe, Power rack + Column to a Mk2 Subframe, Power rack + Column (I suspect that the Mk2 lower part is needed and i hope will bolt onto the upper section of the Mk1) Mine required no welding at all, everything is bolt in once the right parts are acquired - Picking a Mk2 Column up this week - Here's for hoping ay? Will update on my build thread once it is all in as this kinda' info is handy for anyone who wants to do the same. That would be ace, thank you |
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Post by noobie on Apr 8, 2019 14:08:47 GMT
Found out the hard way that when you put a MK2 Rack and F-Subframe into a Mk1 - You will also need a MK2 Column also as the splines are different sizes on the rack output. You just need the lower part of the rack..up to the universal joint. Reasons for swapping to mk2 sub-frame are slightly lower bump-steer and slightly shorter (power) steering rack ratio. De-powering the rack still requires welding/pinning for a proper job, no different than NA. Be aware that due to the re-positioning of the control arm pickup points that you will also need to swap to mk2 hubs and mk2 tie-rod ends to benefit from the bump-steer correction. If not then the bump-steer curve will be worse then before.. Also note that the NB hubs will space the wheel out a couple mm (8?) more, so something to keep in mind if you're already struggling for tire clearance. |
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Crumpets
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Post by Crumpets on Apr 8, 2019 14:32:11 GMT
Ah, as I thought: just the bottom part.
I have rebuilt the new rack with Polybushes and new track rods and ends so all new mk2 goodies there.
I didn't know about the hubs though, I thought it was the arms that caused the wheel to be spaced a bit more out, but the more you know. I will put MK2 hubs on. Thanks for the heads up! - anything else worth noting when changing from a MK1 to mk2 subframe? Would be good to try and solve problems before I get there haha.
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Post by wannabe on Apr 8, 2019 15:47:29 GMT
Found out the hard way that when you put a MK2 Rack and F-Subframe into a Mk1 - You will also need a MK2 Column also as the splines are different sizes on the rack output. You just need the lower part of the rack..up to the universal joint. Reasons for swapping to mk2 sub-frame are slightly lower bump-steer and slightly shorter (power) steering rack ratio. De-powering the rack still requires welding/pinning for a proper job, no different than NA. Be aware that due to the re-positioning of the control arm pickup points that you will also need to swap to mk2 hubs and mk2 tie-rod ends to benefit from the bump-steer correction. If not then the bump-steer curve will be worse then before.. Also note that the NB hubs will space the wheel out a couple mm (8?) more, so something to keep in mind if you're already struggling for tire clearance. This is useful info, thank you! I am intending to try some of the rack risers from Moss to see if I can reduce any bumpsteer (on a Mk1 setup that's really not that low, but just in case!) but I've not really seen much feedback on them (although haven't really been looking): www.moss-europe.co.uk/steering-rack-risers-mxv14710.html |
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Post by noobie on Apr 9, 2019 7:37:15 GMT
Rack risers work just fine. And NB track rod ends help a little as well.
Just don't try and fix something that's not a problem. For me on street tires bumpsteer was never a consideration even when quite low. On 225-45 track tires that became a whole different matter.
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Post by wannabe on Apr 9, 2019 15:47:44 GMT
Rack risers work just fine. And NB track rod ends help a little as well. Just don't try and fix something that's not a problem. For me on street tires bumpsteer was never a consideration even when quite low. On 225-45 track tires that became a whole different matter. Thanks for the confirmation! IIRC there was some discussion over the angles of the RS versions being different and allowing for lower running as well? Am I correct in thinking that the steering arms should basically be horizontal / 0 degrees at rest in order to avoid bump steer when moving / under load? |
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Post by Zed. on Apr 10, 2019 11:47:47 GMT
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Post by Zed. on Apr 10, 2019 13:59:17 GMT
Today I’ve mostly been doing....... Nothing with the ‘5  Although it’s a nice day to be in a farmyard waiting for a farrier to arrive  Maybe I’ll get motivated later  Rich. |
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Post by atlex on Apr 10, 2019 14:04:07 GMT
Drove the white one to work, with a big smile on my face. Also I put the cusco catch can back in for some period-correctness.
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lol
