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Post by scottydugg on Feb 28, 2023 9:22:04 GMT
If you're ok, then that's good enough for me thanks. I've got braided lines on mine, they had enough length for one of them to be rubbing on the tyre at full lock at my last MOT, so just check the movement once fitted. Ok thanks will make sure to check them over with a wheel on, hopefully all goes smoothly! |
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Post by scottydugg on Mar 27, 2023 9:32:36 GMT
MOT is due this week, hoping to get to the tuner before then if he can fit me in, have tried a quick test drive and it's sitting towards too lean since fitting the larger bore exhaust - no surprise there. If he can't fit me in I'll add fuel to the map for the short term. Anyway, picked up a FineCut short shifter, it's the angled version but was too good a deal to pass up - been looking for one for a while.  IMG_20230324_113137 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Managed to fit the OEM lower boot, bit fiddly but it does fit in place:  IMG_20230324_170314 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Before, Cobalt short shift with a brass bush and Jass gear knob:  IMG_20230325_153225 by Scott Reid, on Flickr After:  IMG_20230325_171435 by Scott Reid, on Flickr The Jass Performance uppper boot does fit over all of this and seal pretty nicely, you just need to drill out the front two holes slightly larger.  PSX_20230325_213232 by Scott Reid, on Flickr I think ideally I'll swap the stalk to a straight one eventually, which FineCut can do for me, this one sits slightly too close which I'm sure would work if I had bucket seats and a harness. Only photo I have of the car outside the garage is from last year, hopefully get some better one's this year, comparison to the day it arrived.  PSX_20230320_221409 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Fingers crossed for the MOT. |
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Post by scottydugg on Mar 31, 2023 10:06:11 GMT
As is now customary, dropped the car off for an MOT and took a photo:  PSX_20230330_202359 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Asked them to rebleed the brakes as my attempt still had some air in the system - which always seems to be the case no matter how much I try. Passed (thankfully), so another year of motoring, I checked and it's done less than 2k miles over the last year though, so hopefully get some more use out of it this year. I've got some strange things going on once it's fully heat soaked that need looked into, I think I've got a small exhaust leak at the elbow/turbo join which is a bit frustrating, some more heat management under the bonnet would be a good idea - shield some of the more important stuff, anyway road trips in mid May and the tuners away a couple weeks, so I've got some time. It just feels good to drive it again. |
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Post by scottydugg on Apr 3, 2023 9:04:43 GMT
So I've now got 6 weeks till road trip and have a couple things to sort: - heat shield for the intake. - heat shield for under bonnet (wires, coolant lines etc.) - 4 wheel alignment. - Polish and Wax (first time in 2+ years) - Wet Vac the inside (30 years of saturation). - Take the hardtop off. - Sort Headlight alignment. Started by trimming down my aluminium panel for the intake heat shield, I'm going to change to a smaller intake filter which will allow me to get this further under the bonnet, not directly under the bonnet vent and rain.  IMG_20230401_193929 by Scott Reid, on Flickr  IMG_20230401_193934 by Scott Reid, on Flickr I've clearance on the bottom edge for a rubber edge trim and knocked 13mm off the top for a rubber compression seal that should fit to the bonnet underside. Just need to mock up the hole for the filter first. Also got plenty gold tape to throw at it for the race-car factor. I mocked up a temporary cover for the turbo coolant lines that had settled a little too close to the manifold, just need to sort a long term solution now. Finally, now I can access the tune again I was looking over my idle cells, tuners got a bit of a difference in them and I think this could be why I've an erratic hot idle - I'll revert them back to something a little closer and see what that does. Also need to mess about with my start up figures as a cold start still needs 2 attempts. Anyway, lots to do. |
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Post by scottydugg on Apr 5, 2023 8:26:41 GMT
Got some more time on the heat shield, it's not bent perfectly so it's not 100%, but it should still work. If it bothers me that much I'll just remake it at some stage.  IMG_20230404_192129 by Scott Reid, on Flickr I've had to move to a smaller foam filter to get the clearance, as surprisingly there isn't a lot of space in there. It still has the 3" neck on it so I'm hoping it wont' cause any restrictions. This is only mocked up, I've got longer joiners to fit to finalise the filter position.  IMG_20230404_192017 by Scott Reid, on Flickr  IMG_20230404_192013 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Have started mocking up all of the edge trim to help seal it off, and wrapping it gold because why not. I'll feedback on if it actually does anything to intake temps. |
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Post by scottydugg on Apr 11, 2023 9:01:34 GMT
Tidied up the heat shield and fitted some heat reflective tape and rubber trims, not quite sure how I've managed it but the folded edge is about 40mm out of position, probably material thickness/fold radius - I've enough material to try again - there is a benefit of this means the sheet metal doesn't clash with the bonnet vents now, maybe it was intentional???  IMG_20230407_192607 by Scott Reid, on Flickr  IMG_20230407_192559 by Scott Reid, on Flickr So far the bonnet temps are pretty similar to running without - maybe takes a bit more time to reach the peak temps I was seeing before, potentially that's due to the bonnet vents. Plan is to try fit a larger filter in there once I can find one - I would hook up the Randall cowl inlet but last time I did that I got pretty gassed inside the car on fumes. Also added in some heat shielding to the to the turbo coolant lines and heater hoses but I think I need a physical shield there if possible to protect the everything on the firewall. Started giving it it's first polish since at least 2019, paints in a pretty bad way in all honesty, although it does seem to be coming back to an acceptable level. Once that's done plan is to hit the interior with the wet spot vac, try clean out 30 years of human expulsions, can't wait. |
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Post by scottydugg on Apr 17, 2023 10:56:44 GMT
Took the hardtop off as it's meant to be at least dry this week, cleaned out the soft top drains, treated the roof and roof rubbers. Also had some spare gold sheet leftover and 20 mins, so chucked it on the underside of the bonnet - best case cools the bonnet down a bit, worst case protects the paint, was going well till I did the bigger, just don't look too closely.  2023-04-17_11-16-26 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Things still to do: - Check Tune. - Alignment. - Headlight alignment. - Interior deep clean. |
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Post by scottydugg on May 22, 2023 8:49:24 GMT
Just back from the 3 day road trip, borrowed the 981 2.7 Boxster in the end as couldn't get the Mazda tuned in time. Although post trip, it pains me to say it, but I don't think the Mazda would have survived. We were seriously lucky with the weather, roof down (taps-aff) for the duration apart from some rain on the Saturday. We didn't do the entire NC500 this time, more of a best bits and the rest, started in Aberdeenshire then cut up from Inverness to Tongue, then down to Ullapool on day 1, Ullapool to Applecross for lunch (over the pass), then onto Kyle of Lochalsh (day 2). Followed up by a loop of Skye then on down to Oban where I headed back to Glasgow. I can do a more detailed route for anyone interested. They've defiantly spent some money in places with the popularity increasing, but the increased traffic on the roads is taking its toll - I've never seen so many camper vans! It must have been a German/Dutch holiday as there were a lot of them going about. Quick group photo on Skye in front of the Old Man of Storr.  2023-05-22_09-36-33 by Scott Reid, on Flickr Apparently the Porsche wave is a thing as well. What does this mean for the Mazda....I've no idea yet. I've taken it into work today as I feel guilty for not taking it  |
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Post by scottydugg on May 31, 2023 21:55:49 GMT
Can't get a hold of the tuner now, so won't say much about that, but going to try sort it on my own with the help of the internet. It's got a couple issues I need to resolve that are really detrimental to daily driving it: #1: Cold starts: will only start on the second attempt, upon a successful start it jumps up to 3krpm before settling down to 800-1000rpm. I've tried adjusting the IACV cranking duty but it's not had any positive effect yet. #2: Hot Starts: when the car gets hot after a run, once everything has heat soaked, it'll die on restart, been adding in ASE and it's now able to start catching itself but still not ideal. #3: Hot Idle: when the car gets hot, it starts to get jumpy/lumpy/prarrie canoe at idle - fluctuating and almost stalling itself when it get's bad. Had thought it was heat soak but I've added what I can to help and it's made no difference at all, leading me to think it's the tune. #4: It runs rich, like gassing myself and everyone else rich - I know it's got a decat but it's so bad it's a pain to drive. I'm going to datalog and Tune with Megalog viewer - but I've been looking at my AFR table and it doesn't look much like what I can find for reference elsewhere, what do folk think?  Current AFR by Scott Reid, on Flickr Could use some help on the above, there's some stuff there that have made it a real pain to drive in all honesty and if I could just start chipping away it'd make a difference. Plan B is to rtry find someone else to take a look at it, but I want to try first. Any help appreciated. |
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Post by niklas on Jun 1, 2023 10:22:01 GMT
1 is probably wall wetting (priming pulse) or lack thereof, cranking pulse may be off. 2,3 may be due to fuel temp adjust if not heat soak.
4, you have rich targets everywhere, are you det-limited? I'd go something like atleast .7 leaner in boost unless you need the fuel in order to avoid knock.
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Post by atlex on Jun 1, 2023 10:36:29 GMT
If there's one thing to take away you need to log AFRs and make VE adjustments - you tell us you had a bad hot idle but.. what was the AFR ? what is the ign angle ? etc :-)
the above table is AFR targets not actual AFRs - you need to show us your log to show us your real AFRs.
the point of the AFR targets is that they're something to aim for in tuning the fueling table, and may also be used for closed loop or auto tune inputs.
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Post by scottydugg on Jun 1, 2023 12:24:58 GMT
1 is probably wall wetting (priming pulse) or lack thereof, cranking pulse may be off. 2,3 may be due to fuel temp adjust if not heat soak. 4, you have rich targets everywhere, are you det-limited? I'd go something like atleast .7 leaner in boost unless you need the fuel in order to avoid knock. So 11.5 max in boost would be a better target? That's ok, that's in line with what I've seen elsewhere. IN terms of the tune I have just now, I paid someone for this, but I think it needs re-doing. My Priming PW goes from 4.5 down to 1.5 I think, I don't have it in front of me. I'm not sure if these values are any good or not. If there's one thing to take away you need to log AFRs and make VE adjustments - you tell us you had a bad hot idle but.. what was the AFR ? what is the ign angle ? etc :-) the above table is AFR targets not actual AFRs - you need to show us your log to show us your real AFRs. the point of the AFR targets is that they're something to aim for in tuning the fueling table, and may also be used for closed loop or auto tune inputs. Thanks for the feedback, yeah I wanted to check that those AFR targets were good/bad before starting to dig deeper into it - it doesn't look anything like others I've seen online. I currently idle at 13.2-13.6 when heated up, which should be nearer 14.5 from what I've read. One thing to note, is that in required fuel he's set it at 720cc, when the injectors are actually 640cc EV14. So I was going to change that and then try start everything again. Although I think he did that to get it to idle. |
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Post by atlex on Jun 1, 2023 12:58:15 GMT
1 is probably wall wetting (priming pulse) or lack thereof, cranking pulse may be off. 2,3 may be due to fuel temp adjust if not heat soak. 4, you have rich targets everywhere, are you det-limited? I'd go something like atleast .7 leaner in boost unless you need the fuel in order to avoid knock. So 11.5 max in boost would be a better target? That's ok, that's in line with what I've seen elsewhere. IN terms of the tune I have just now, I paid someone for this, but I think it needs re-doing. My Priming PW goes from 4.5 down to 1.5 I think, I don't have it in front of me. I'm not sure if these values are any good or not. If there's one thing to take away you need to log AFRs and make VE adjustments - you tell us you had a bad hot idle but.. what was the AFR ? what is the ign angle ? etc :-) the above table is AFR targets not actual AFRs - you need to show us your log to show us your real AFRs. the point of the AFR targets is that they're something to aim for in tuning the fueling table, and may also be used for closed loop or auto tune inputs. Thanks for the feedback, yeah I wanted to check that those AFR targets were good/bad before starting to dig deeper into it - it doesn't look anything like others I've seen online. I currently idle at 13.2-13.6 when heated up, which should be nearer 14.5 from what I've read. One thing to note, is that in required fuel he's set it at 720cc, when the injectors are actually 640cc EV14. So I was going to change that and then try start everything again. Although I think he did that to get it to idle. precisely - 11.5 is a really good safe target for boost - by which I mean it is the point at which more fuel won't make the car any safer or faster and less will only make it less safe - 12 would be _ok_ but is more suitable to light boost than full boost. realistically you want 12.5 at 'atmospheric pressure aka 100kpa' (not boost but not vacuum) and to ramp it to 11.5 as the boost goes past 150kpa so 14.7-15.5 in the 0-70kpa range, going to 13 afr in the 70-85kpa range, going to 12.5 as it gets to 100kpa, then say 130kpa 12afr, 150kpa+ 11.5kpa make sure ecu is configured for the correct size of injectors, warm it up and get it to idle nicely then expand the area you're trying to tune step cell by cell, the safest VE figure to start at is around 50 for the idle zone, check the AFR you get, tweak it until you get what you had in the target table... and move to the next cell. |
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Post by scottydugg on Jun 1, 2023 15:09:52 GMT
So 11.5 max in boost would be a better target? That's ok, that's in line with what I've seen elsewhere. IN terms of the tune I have just now, I paid someone for this, but I think it needs re-doing. My Priming PW goes from 4.5 down to 1.5 I think, I don't have it in front of me. I'm not sure if these values are any good or not. Thanks for the feedback, yeah I wanted to check that those AFR targets were good/bad before starting to dig deeper into it - it doesn't look anything like others I've seen online. I currently idle at 13.2-13.6 when heated up, which should be nearer 14.5 from what I've read. One thing to note, is that in required fuel he's set it at 720cc, when the injectors are actually 640cc EV14. So I was going to change that and then try start everything again. Although I think he did that to get it to idle. precisely - 11.5 is a really good safe target for boost - by which I mean it is the point at which more fuel won't make the car any safer or faster and less will only make it less safe - 12 would be _ok_ but is more suitable to light boost than full boost. realistically you want 12.5 at 'atmospheric pressure aka 100kpa' (not boost but not vacuum) and to ramp it to 11.5 as the boost goes past 150kpa so 14.7-15.5 in the 0-70kpa range, going to 13 afr in the 70-85kpa range, going to 12.5 as it gets to 100kpa, then say 130kpa 12afr, 150kpa+ 11.5kpa make sure ecu is configured for the correct size of injectors, warm it up and get it to idle nicely then expand the area you're trying to tune step cell by cell, the safest VE figure to start at is around 50 for the idle zone, check the AFR you get, tweak it until you get what you had in the target table... and move to the next cell. Thanks Atlex, much appreciated, I've got a copy of the Turbo Kitty base map so can use its AFR's as a starting point. You've effectively confirmed the tune I've paid someone for is not really much use, either that or there is something he's had to tune around. I've got a datalog of the car idling poorly, so will post that up when I get to my other laptop. |
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Post by atlex on Jun 1, 2023 15:16:34 GMT
also what's the dwell time ? share your tune and logs :-)
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le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT