ScottyDugg's Eunos (1.8)

Here we go: current tune file, hot idle issue and a short data log of with a few pulls.

drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zD-QTTqMhWKym8Cok2wFCYUoZQE-71lb

Hopefully there is something obviously wrong, I know I've messed up the required fuelling which will need scaled correctly again.

Hopefully the link works?

Appreciate you taking the time to check boggissimo, thank you.

I've just posted on the local 5 page I'm going to split it and part out, hard decision but I've got a new house coming in August and our first child in October, so realistically the 5's going to be on the back burner long term. Plus to fix the rust and get it where I'd want it it'd be a grand if not more, which I just don't have the funds/time for.

So it'll be replaced with a 5 door short term, another fun car in a few years.

If anyone wants any of the parts let me know, I'll do a proper ad this weekend. I'm in Glasgow but I'll be able to post most things I would imagine, would be good to see a forum member get the use of them.

I think the rolling shells already been claimed

Same position here <B

OK, the mild and relaxing moment has occured (post prandial tune review time)




Appears you're running the IAT valve - there's idle control with the PW I think. But as it tries to control the idle the AFR goes super lean because it's letting more air in but it doesn't seem to be controlling the fueling properly. Just watch it cycling the PW for idle and the AFR spiking at the same time, I hope it's obvious. The VE cells where the IACV operation sends it need more VE to compensate for the extra air.

 add another 10-20% in the cells nearby idle. And then drop in the closed lambda idle to let it manage itself, once that's done. You should aim for a stoich idle - 14.7 afr (or a touch more if you want to reduce the co aka monoxide), but honestly if you just need it to idle nicely for the time being don't be afraid to idle it at 13 afr.

That big block/area of '55' needs to be more like '60' or '65' in other words - don't be afraid to tune the cells that are 54 either, the whole point is to get the car to idle correctly when HOT - and THEN do the cold start once the car has spent a night cooling off.



Alex

Also one more thing to add you should make sure your sensors are all calibrated properly :-)

Last note - you bought this tune online ? So it wasn't made by someone with your actual car and mods and everything - who could see your AFRs for each area of the map - consequently you have to treat it all (literally every cell) as a 'nice guess at the time' and get it all correct yourself or with a tuner. It's really no better than a basemap and hopefully no worse either.

I recommend getting it right yourself since it isn't that hard, just keep backups (dated? or just numbered ?) as you go so you can always go back if you catch yourself out.

The VE table is there to inform the ECU of how much fuel the engine generally consumes in that area of the map. You can work out an approximate correction by seeing the AFR figure you get for the cell and dividing it by the target AFR. How this works.. and an example to work out the calculation..

current AFR - 16
target AFR - 14.7
current VE cell number - 55
(current/target) * cell = new cell number

( 16/14.7) * 55 = 60 is your new VE cell number

go forth and fix it yourself!

IMG_20230805_132923 by Scott Reid, on Flickr

So just over 6 years of ownership, undisclosed amounts of money, lots of time/effort/blood/sweat and swearing. Guy who took it is going to re-shell his turbo mk2 into it supposedly - so it'll go back to being a drifter. Managed to shift 2 thirds of the parts so far which isn't too bad going - not sure what will replace it yet.

Sad to see it go in all honesty, keep seeing mx5's going about and get a wee pang of guilt that I've gotten rid and should have maybe stuck with it.

Anyway, will probably hang about and see how everyone's projects develop from here.