ITBs

Reminds me I'll need to re-check mine when I set base timing, I advanced it to 14 last time I was dicking around with that. Not sure if I should probably set it back to 10 when I fit the ITBs and get them running on a base map before moving that around again, I do like to not change anything before adding something new but this is different.

I aim to really just get the thing running and started without to many variables which is why I said Alpha-N with just the TPS, long term I'd like to improve on that so I'll elaborate.

I was re-thinking about adding an IAT sensor, maybe for setup/open trumpets I'll just zip it to the strut tower brace for now so it's near to one of the trumpets. I didn't want too much faff to get set up, if I can get it to fit I plan on running a similar ITG filter setup as Akira Iida's 4age and mounting the IAT sensor into that neatly.



I don't really think running a uni sock filter approach or similar is for me, most lose power and the ITBs can sometimes eat them 👀. It would also allow me to tap and attach a vacuum hose to the airbox for the map sensor on the ME to do baro correction (if not practical I can just leave it somewhere in the bay as the pressure is probably quite even). It might also allow me to measure any restriction / ram air effect but that might be fairly negligable (it is a 1.6 so every little helps lol).

Flat one yes, the domed sausage filters can add some restrictions I think  so I'd prefer to avoid that, Nils does a pipercross kit so could always go with that I just wanted to measure up what room I'm working with and get the vacuum block etc setup before adding anything else in. I have plenty of time over winter to get it neat.

www.hummelink-modifications.nl/webshop/filters-and-intakes/pipercross-px600-individual-throttlebody-carburettor-filter/

The ITG version is not quite as long so might make the difference when trying to clear the clutch master and brake prop

When you're setting timing in TunerStudio, you lock/turn-on fixed timing at 10 degrees, then adjust your crank angle offset till you see 10 degrees with the timing light. Once done unlock/turn off fixed timing and that's it set. You don't need to touch the CAS, it's all done through the ECU now. 

You just need to confirm where 10 degrees is for it and it does the rest. You could do it with the CAS, but you really don't need to, you would still need to lock the timing on 10 degrees to change it.

Yes, absolutely if you have a standalone it's all done via trigger offset and you want 10 btdc.

With the stock ECU it's a different story adjustment to timing is done by rotating the cas.

Hi Folks,
After another look at the TPS situation
It will be more trouble to mount the OEM TPS
I have found the wiring details for the three wire supplied unit and have fitted a plug to the fly leads and have the fittings and crimping tool from work to do the vehicle end.
The throttle cable will need slight modification as the OEM washers are too large a diameter for the bracket and the rubber grommet will have to be discarded.
The filter backing plate is handed so will only fit one way round as its set towards the front of the engine.
I will be pulling the Danst set off in a couple of weeks when the car is not needed for a couple of weeks and installing the new set.

Hi Warpspeed,
Its just a matter of working out with one of the four loom wires goes onto the three wire supplied TPS
I think I have the diagrams for both side now so its just a case of cutting the cars loom socket off and fitting a new socket.
I am using a four pin plug and socket so that the four wires are terminated without a loose end in the engine bay.

Hi Atlex,
The supplied TPS is a WABASH 971 RPS
Red Wire 5 volt supply
Green Wire Output signal
Black Wire Ground

Information found on nzefi.com


For my cars OEM loom I found the wire colours on the Haltech website

Green 5 volt Supply
Red / Black Output signal
Black / Blue Ground

So once I did a wire joint plan I made up a plug and socket to connect the two parts.
I will make up another plug on the OEM Tps so that it can be put back to standard if needed in the future.

The removal of the Danst Set and install of the BBR set took just over four hours.
I bent up a combination spanner to do up the nuts as I could not get a socket onto the upper nuts. A normal dog leg ring spanner would not fit either.
Another two hours was spent on setting up the Idle Air controls to get the tickover down to below 1000 Rpm ( Idle Air Valve is badged Ford but the same as the Mk2 1800 plug )
I will give it a test drive on Monday and report back.
I expect I will have to do some more tuning due to the larger Bore of the BBR ITBs.