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Post by atlex on Jun 10, 2021 15:22:30 GMT
Adjusted the handbrake on the turbo.
I've ended up using a different method because the 'slack off' method just wasn't doing it for me.
1) Wheels off, lugs on to keep the rotors straight.
2) slacked the cable slightly
3) pulled it up 6 clicks.
3) adjusted the adjusters until they were 'can't rotate the hubs no matter how hard I try' tight.
5) dropped the handbrake and checked the rotors span freely.
repeated 3-5 about five times.
Put everything back where it ought to go and went out for a drive with my thermometer gun and checked for even-ness of heat between the rears without making heavy use of the brakes, so I would be sure there's no dragging. Within a few degrees cold after a few KMs so.. good enough!
Previously I tried the 1/3 turn and without-lots-of-clicks method. Didn't seem to suit this handbrake / caliper combo.
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Post by wannabe on Jun 10, 2021 21:45:05 GMT
I might need to DIY change my pads soon, which I presume involves similar faffing...  |
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Post by dadbif on Jun 11, 2021 12:26:08 GMT
Oh dear….
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Post by wannabe on Jun 11, 2021 12:48:54 GMT
How hard can it be?   |
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Post by batou on Jun 11, 2021 14:22:14 GMT
Cheeky test fit...   Takata Race 4 ASM & Recaro SPG - by batousan, on Flickr Waiting on the GC3 bar. Also new Maruha 1.1 bar rad cap and I have some Rodders pads ready to go on over the weekend so also be dicking around with the rear handbrake too, usually I get away without only doing it once a year for mot. Literally every year it needs readjusting without fail. The bast@rd. Edit. This picture also made me realise where I'd left my phone |
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Post by boggissimo on Jun 14, 2021 17:54:26 GMT
I need to look at my handbrake too. It was good before I rebuilt one of the rear calipers, then was barely an MOT pass, and the pressure between the two rear brakes is not even. I'm doing an MCC trial (tarmac-only class) in a couple of weeks so will need it to hold on the hills! Have ordered a new splined adjuster widget thing off ebay but it hasn't arrived yet. I do have a new key blank and Eunos badge though, thanks to some links on here giving me the idea...
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Post by atlex on Jun 14, 2021 18:45:45 GMT
^ There will be two splined adapters one in each caliper - they are only used for adjustment, so you can use the one on either side to do both if one is missing. They don't have to be kept in, but most of us leave them.
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Post by atlex on Jun 14, 2021 19:48:17 GMT
Not the MX5s but I programmed new remote central locking keys for the MRS. They work. interesting process.
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Post by boggissimo on Jun 16, 2021 10:48:30 GMT
^ There will be two splined adapters one in each caliper - they are only used for adjustment, so you can use the one on either side to do both if one is missing. They don't have to be kept in, but most of us leave them. Aha! Might need to try that then. Only trouble is, last time I tried to fiddle with the adjuster and wasn't sure if it had rounded off and was doing nothing, I couldn't get the bugger out. Will have to investigate properly.
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Post by boggissimo on Jun 16, 2021 10:52:26 GMT
TL;DR – I rolled one of my front arches last night.
My 55 profile tyres have been rubbing on the front arches when I go over big bumps, which is a bit annoying, so I need to roll them. I bought the cheapest arch roller tool off eBay (£20 delivered) and put it together last week, but when I went to use it on Monday it didn't fit under the arch! Needed to hack off an inch or so from the main tube, and a bit off the inner extendable bit, and undo the bottom bolt of the coilover strut so I could push the hub down, but eventually I got it in there and rolled one side. Need to do the other side tonight, and hope that I've done it enough...
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Post by atlex on Jun 16, 2021 13:42:43 GMT
^ There will be two splined adapters one in each caliper - they are only used for adjustment, so you can use the one on either side to do both if one is missing. They don't have to be kept in, but most of us leave them. Aha! Might need to try that then. Only trouble is, last time I tried to fiddle with the adjuster and wasn't sure if it had rounded off and was doing nothing, I couldn't get the bugger out. Will have to investigate properly.
The part you put your allen key in is the bit that can be taken out of the caliper - They're made of soft iron so that the adjuster doesn't damage the female part inside the caliper if it gets overtorqued or abuased. Remove the adjuster, take a look at the splines, make sure you push it all the way in if it's in good condition, so you don't damage it while having a go. Ask me how I know ? I managed to mash _BOTH_ of mine (or someone else did.. who knows?) on my blue car and had my car up on jacks for nearly a month last year, just waiting for replacements. Middle of covid. That was very boring. |
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Post by atlex on Jun 16, 2021 13:48:05 GMT
This may sound a bit sad but in an attempt to get a cooler gearknob in this heat I ordered some pre-drilled 5cm wooden balls, drilled them out to the right size and tapped them for use. Cheaper than trying to get a duracon knob  |
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Post by wannabe on Jun 16, 2021 14:07:27 GMT
This may sound a bit sad but in an attempt to get a cooler gearknob in this heat I ordered some pre-drilled 5cm wooden balls, drilled them out to the right size and tapped them for use. Cheaper than trying to get a duracon knob Pics of your balls? |
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Post by batou on Jun 16, 2021 14:21:25 GMT
This may sound a bit sad but in an attempt to get a cooler gearknob in this heat I ordered some pre-drilled 5cm wooden balls, drilled them out to the right size and tapped them for use. Cheaper than trying to get a duracon knob Haha, exactly why I removed the Razo, it would get so damn hot if I left it with the roof down. Think the Tomei Duracon was around £30-40 ish so pricey, but not terrible. I've seen wooden gear knobs made from recycled skateboards which look properly tasteful. |
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Post by atlex on Jun 16, 2021 15:08:40 GMT
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le sigh