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Post by scottydugg on Dec 1, 2022 9:17:27 GMT
IF you need a spare clutch to try, I've got my Exedy that came out of mine (1.8 - 12,000 miles) for free, I could ship it down. Hopefully you've still time to your event!
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Post by howardb66 on Dec 1, 2022 10:26:39 GMT
I’ve got a spare release bearing you can have.
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Post by boggissimo on Dec 1, 2022 11:39:26 GMT
Thanks all, I'm going to try a new master cylinder first, as I don't have to drop the gearbox again for that. Other folks have suggested that I should have changed the pressure plate at the same time as the friction plate, so if changing the master cylinder doesn't fix it, that's my next port of call. The clutch was working perfectly fine before the engine went, and when I swapped it over to the replacement engine I thought that replacing the friction plate would be all that was needed, since the old one was fairly worn and it was much easier to replace while the engine was out. Looks like it'll end up being a replacement of the entire clutch system at this rate!
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Post by atlex on Dec 1, 2022 23:05:14 GMT
New belts arrived for the white car.. I'll want to do a coolant flush and oil change after the toasty roasty experience tbh.
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Post by boggissimo on Dec 5, 2022 10:53:42 GMT
I had a day off work on Friday, and had booked to do a track day at Brands Hatch (lots of people from my car club do it as a kind of tradition). Obvs the Eunos wasn't going to be there, so I tried and failed to sell on the ticket. Since nobody could take it, I thought I'd fit a new master cylinder and see if that worked, so I ordered one and it was due for delivery mid-morning Friday.
It hadn't arrived after lunch so I went up to Brands in our shopping car (Nissan Leaf) for a few laps in that. And it was very few laps - arrived at the circuit with 90% full battery, and after 16 laps it was down to 16% (enough to get home without recharging) so I called it a day. It's the first time in 4 years that the weather has been kind on this track day, the track was actually bone dry all round, so it was still good fun to be out there. The Leaf wasn't the best car for the job, rolling around and not getting much over 85 mph on the straight, but managed a few 70s laps, which is actually a couple of seconds quicker than in the Eunos last year in wet and greasy conditions (and 5 seconds slower than it went in the only other dry session I've done in the Eunos at Brands).
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Post by wannabe on Dec 5, 2022 17:26:10 GMT
I had a day off work on Friday, and had booked to do a track day at Brands Hatch (lots of people from my car club do it as a kind of tradition). Obvs the Eunos wasn't going to be there, so I tried and failed to sell on the ticket. Since nobody could take it, I thought I'd fit a new master cylinder and see if that worked, so I ordered one and it was due for delivery mid-morning Friday. It hadn't arrived after lunch so I went up to Brands in our shopping car (Nissan Leaf) for a few laps in that. And it was very few laps - arrived at the circuit with 90% full battery, and after 16 laps it was down to 16% (enough to get home without recharging) so I called it a day. It's the first time in 4 years that the weather has been kind on this track day, the track was actually bone dry all round, so it was still good fun to be out there. The Leaf wasn't the best car for the job, rolling around and not getting much over 85 mph on the straight, but managed a few 70s laps, which is actually a couple of seconds quicker than in the Eunos last year in wet and greasy conditions (and 5 seconds slower than it went in the only other dry session I've done in the Eunos at Brands). lol wtf How long is Brands? www.brandshatch.co.uk/about/circuit-layoutssays it is 1.2 miles (Indy) or 2.4 miles (GP) So you did either 19.2 miles or 38.4 miles on three-quarters of a tank of 'juice'? This EV stuff sounds, er, great... lol EDIT: If we assumed a 10-gallon standard petrol tank, so about 50 litres, 7.5 gallons of petrol to do 19.2 miles would 2.56 MPG, or double that MPG to do double the distance. I think you'd need to be driving a V12 of italian descent to get that sort of energy usage LOL |
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Post by howardb66 on Dec 6, 2022 7:54:26 GMT
When I’m sprinting/hillclimbing, my turbo MX5 does about 5mpg. My TVR about 4….
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Post by boggissimo on Dec 6, 2022 9:23:10 GMT
It hadn't arrived after lunch so I went up to Brands in our shopping car (Nissan Leaf) for a few laps in that. And it was very few laps - arrived at the circuit with 90% full battery, and after 16 laps it was down to 16% (enough to get home without recharging) so I called it a day. It's the first time in 4 years that the weather has been kind on this track day, the track was actually bone dry all round, so it was still good fun to be out there. The Leaf wasn't the best car for the job, rolling around and not getting much over 85 mph on the straight, but managed a few 70s laps, which is actually a couple of seconds quicker than in the Eunos last year in wet and greasy conditions (and 5 seconds slower than it went in the only other dry session I've done in the Eunos at Brands). lol wtf How long is Brands? www.brandshatch.co.uk/about/circuit-layoutssays it is 1.2 miles (Indy) or 2.4 miles (GP) So you did either 19.2 miles or 38.4 miles on three-quarters of a tank of 'juice'? This EV stuff sounds, er, great... lol EDIT: If we assumed a 10-gallon standard petrol tank, so about 50 litres, 7.5 gallons of petrol to do 19.2 miles would 2.56 MPG, or double that MPG to do double the distance. I think you'd need to be driving a V12 of italian descent to get that sort of energy usage LOL It was the Indy circuit, so yep not the greatest efficiency! The battery on my car 'holds' 30 kWh, and I used 22.2 kWh, or about 1.4 kWh per lap, or just over 1 kWh per mile. In normal driving we get about 4 miles per kWh, so I was using four times as much juice per mile on track. Translate that to my ~30 mpg Eunos and it'd be getting 7.5 mpg, I think it's probably more like 15-20 mpg when I'm on track in real life. Still, even at 17p per kWh to charge it up at home, at least it didn't cost me too much!
There was a guy there in a Tesla Model 3, he did plenty of laps without worrying too much about battery, though he did go and recharge at lunchtime...
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Post by boggissimo on Dec 7, 2022 14:53:39 GMT
Anyone have one of the rubber pedal switch stoppers spare (blue part in the photo below)? Autolink are sold out and I can't find them anywhere else. Editing to say these are not my legs!
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Post by batou on Dec 7, 2022 18:16:56 GMT
Anyone have one of the rubber pedal switch stoppers spare (blue part in the photo below)? Autolink are sold out and I can't find them anywhere else. Editing to say these are not my legs!
I might not need mine mate, given if I use it I end up with 3.4% throttle input on my ITBs. Not sure you really need them tbh? EDIT. Wait, this is not the same thing. Thats not a throttle pedal is it? 😂 |
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Post by boggissimo on Dec 7, 2022 20:04:19 GMT
Anyone have one of the rubber pedal switch stoppers spare (blue part in the photo below)? Autolink are sold out and I can't find them anywhere else. Editing to say these are not my legs!
I might not need mine mate, given if I use it I end up with 3.4% throttle input on my ITBs. Not sure you really need them tbh? EDIT. Wait, this is not the same thing. Thats not a throttle pedal is it? 😂 Haha, nope it's a clutch I need it for (same thing on the brake pedal too) - it keeps the switch in when you're not pressing the pedal. So for the brake it puts the lights on when you press the pedal, and for the clutch it is supposed to send a signal to the ECU that you've got your foot on the clutch so you can start the engine, though mine doesn't seem to need it as it still fires up when the switch is disconnected...I could take the switch out altogether but I suspect it'll be useful when I eventually put the megasquirt ECU in.
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Post by Zed. on Dec 7, 2022 20:48:51 GMT
I might not need mine mate, given if I use it I end up with 3.4% throttle input on my ITBs. Not sure you really need them tbh? EDIT. Wait, this is not the same thing. Thats not a throttle pedal is it? 😂 Haha, nope it's a clutch I need it for (same thing on the brake pedal too) - it keeps the switch in when you're not pressing the pedal. So for the brake it puts the lights on when you press the pedal, and for the clutch it is supposed to send a signal to the ECU that you've got your foot on the clutch so you can start the engine, though mine doesn't seem to need it as it still fires up when the switch is disconnected...I could take the switch out altogether but I suspect it'll be useful when I eventually put the megasquirt ECU in.
use a nut & bolt (bolt head towards switch & adjust switch for thicker bolt head) Rich. |
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Post by dadbif on Dec 7, 2022 21:42:32 GMT
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Post by atlex on Dec 7, 2022 21:48:07 GMT
Fitted a new alternator belt tensioner bolt as I'd absolutely fooked (stretched!) the previous one.
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Post by boggissimo on Dec 8, 2022 9:15:49 GMT
Thanks, I had a similar thought and used one of the trim clips from an ebay selection box. It'll do.
Changed the clutch master over to the new one, was surprisingly easy. Bled it OK, but it didn't make a noticeable difference to my clutch woes. I took the rubber boot off the fork hole and stuck a crow bar in there, and found it is possible to move the release bearing further than it goes with the fork and it felt like it must be moving the clutch. It just doesn't do it with the pedal, like the slave piston doesn't push it far enough. The clutch fork is quite loose on the ball but it is still attached as far as I can tell.
Don't suppose anyone has a video or measurements of how far the slave piston (or clutch fork end) moves when you press the pedal?
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le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT
le sigh
Jul 15, 2023 20:03:52 GMT