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Post by dickie on Dec 8, 2022 19:03:56 GMT
Hi, Just a thought from my experience has the return spring in the master cylinder broken as this can cause the symptons you are having.
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Post by wannabe on Dec 9, 2022 1:21:10 GMT
Got slightly fed up that despite using that Honda?-produced silicon rubber moisturiser product earlier in the year on my roof rubbers, it's still apparently leaking through a gap above the driver's window and making the seat wet, which is meaning half a roll of kitchen roll to wipe the condensation off the inside of the windows each time I go to start up....
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Post by dadbif on Dec 9, 2022 8:11:55 GMT
Coconut oil is dirt cheap, and keeps rubber seals supple.
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Post by batou on Dec 9, 2022 8:57:04 GMT
Got slightly fed up that despite using that Honda?-produced silicon rubber moisturiser product earlier in the year on my roof rubbers, it's still apparently leaking through a gap above the driver's window and making the seat wet, which is meaning half a roll of kitchen roll to wipe the condensation off the inside of the windows each time I go to start up.... I replaced mine, no amount of shin etsu or coconut oil will fix a 30 year old perished rubber seal. Its like that dodgy looking scab you keep putting e45 on, yeah it stops it itching but it sure aint healing
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Post by boggissimo on Dec 9, 2022 9:16:49 GMT
Hi, Just a thought from my experience has the return spring in the master cylinder broken as this can cause the symptons you are having. Thanks Dickie, I've now replaced the master cylinder and it didn't make any difference, so either they're both broken or that wasn't the problem.
Having put a video of my slave cylinder/clutch fork movement onto the Mk1 Facebook group, someone else posted a video of theirs (thread is here, probably need to be a group member to see it). From what I can see, my slave piston is moving the fork the correct amount, but the other guy's fork is much closer to the slave cylinder 'at rest', so his piston is less extended before the pedal is pushed. This seems to be because his clutch fork end sits much nearer the front of the car than mine does. Not sure if that's all I need to do, sort out where the fork is sitting?
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Post by batou on Dec 9, 2022 10:04:42 GMT
Hi, Just a thought from my experience has the return spring in the master cylinder broken as this can cause the symptons you are having. Thanks Dickie, I've now replaced the master cylinder and it didn't make any difference, so either they're both broken or that wasn't the problem.
Having put a video of my slave cylinder/clutch fork movement onto the Mk1 Facebook group, someone else posted a video of theirs (thread is here, probably need to be a group member to see it). From what I can see, my slave piston is moving the fork the correct amount, but the other guy's fork is much closer to the slave cylinder 'at rest', so his piston is less extended before the pedal is pushed. This seems to be because his clutch fork end sits much nearer the front of the car than mine does. Not sure if that's all I need to do, sort out where the fork is sitting? Wow this is a real headscratcher, wish I could offer more on this one. May have already gone over this but you are absoutely certain the throwout bearing is touching the pressure plate? Fiven it would be what should be releasing the clutch by being pressed against the pressure plate if its may account for your difference in position/travel of the slave at rest. If you've replaced it with a new one did you compare to the old one to be sure its correct?
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Post by boggissimo on Dec 9, 2022 16:16:43 GMT
Thanks Dickie, I've now replaced the master cylinder and it didn't make any difference, so either they're both broken or that wasn't the problem.
Having put a video of my slave cylinder/clutch fork movement onto the Mk1 Facebook group, someone else posted a video of theirs (thread is here, probably need to be a group member to see it). From what I can see, my slave piston is moving the fork the correct amount, but the other guy's fork is much closer to the slave cylinder 'at rest', so his piston is less extended before the pedal is pushed. This seems to be because his clutch fork end sits much nearer the front of the car than mine does. Not sure if that's all I need to do, sort out where the fork is sitting? Wow this is a real headscratcher, wish I could offer more on this one. May have already gone over this but you are absoutely certain the throwout bearing is touching the pressure plate? Fiven it would be what should be releasing the clutch by being pressed against the pressure plate if its may account for your difference in position/travel of the slave at rest. If you've replaced it with a new one did you compare to the old one to be sure its correct? Thanks, yeah I can't work it out either. I've read a few posts on other forums where people have started it in gear and the shock has freed something up inside, but my car is facing into the garage, and there's not much room between leaving the garage in reverse and going through the wall of the neighbours' garage so I don't really want to risk it. Potentially could try pushing it out to turn it round, but I might not get it back in again as the drive is on a slope!
The new release bearing was the same as the old one, and of course I didn't take any pictures to prove that to myself, nor did I take any pictures of the innards after I took the gearbox off again, so can't be sure of anything anymore. I'm just about resigned to taking the gearbox off again and fitting a new pressure plate, as that's the only thing I haven't changed now!
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Post by scottydugg on Dec 9, 2022 21:33:37 GMT
Could it be the clutch fork is bent? I think you can get replacements? The ball joint wears out, but might have bent on removal? What's left to replace? Time for another gearbox? Is the shifter in place correctly?
Is it a 6spd? If so did you pull out the wrong bolt when filling with oil?
Did you use a clutch alignment tool?
Just trying to think outside the box (or inside).
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Post by dadbif on Dec 9, 2022 21:41:43 GMT
How about the the release arm, is it located correctly. I mean the point the arm pivots on… Part 16-102
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Post by Zed. on Dec 9, 2022 22:49:11 GMT
Could it be the clutch fork is bent? I think you can get replacements? The ball joint wears out, but might have bent on removal? I Might have one or too in the collection Rich.
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Post by atlex on Dec 10, 2022 23:20:33 GMT
Machined (pillar drilled, really, ) a momo-nardi PCD adapter to a custom fit (78.5mm PCD but aligned like Momo) for a Nardi wheel that came on some 60s Fiats.
Which I then bolt in via the modern 74x6 Nardi holes into the NRG QR
I filled in the old momo holes with ali rod stock & some locktite.
Beautiful wheel. I preffer it to any new nardi. tbh.
Wired up the horn too.
I recognise this post is useless without photos. XD
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Post by boggissimo on Dec 11, 2022 7:47:37 GMT
Could it be the clutch fork is bent? I think you can get replacements? The ball joint wears out, but might have bent on removal? What's left to replace? Time for another gearbox? Is the shifter in place correctly? Is it a 6spd? If so did you pull out the wrong bolt when filling with oil? Did you use a clutch alignment tool? Just trying to think outside the box (or inside). It's possible the clutch fork is bent, yeah. Zed. if you've got one hanging about you want to send my way...Not sure if it can be popped out through the hole or if I'll still have to take the gearbox off again to change it over.
I used the clutch alignment tool from Bofi, seemed to work fine. And it's a 5 speed which didn't have any problems before the engine went, so I don't think that's the problem.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!
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Post by atlex on Dec 12, 2022 10:44:57 GMT
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Post by dadbif on Dec 12, 2022 21:45:01 GMT
Looks small and fat, Fiat 500?
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Post by zoona on Dec 12, 2022 21:50:56 GMT
Looks small and fat, Fiat 500?
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