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Post by rich5660 on Jul 17, 2017 12:23:30 GMT
so new calipers are on, pads in and handbrake attached... just needs some more fluid and bleeding.
new door mirrors are on
interior is pretty much all back together, a few small bits to finish off
Oil cooler still needs a small bracket making. Shouldn't take long.
Battery terminals are in progress. Shouldn't take long.
New battery ordered and on the floor in the office at Skuzzle.
Exhaust has been fixed as best I can. Need to get the ECU map looked at as it's just over fuelling massively... may be lambda?
New fog light ordered and already in the workshop.
Nearly there! also photobucket has screwed up all my photos on here, im in the process of moving over to flickr but theres around 4000 things to move (not all get shared!) so this may take a little longer than expected.. hold tight
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Post by rich5660 on Jun 3, 2018 17:57:30 GMT
So it’s been nearly a full year of being skint and trying to save up... Things have progressed though, kind of. I thought I had it in a sensible enough place that me Canoeing around with it any longer was doing no good, I’ve also had some personal stuff going on which I won’t go into but most of you know already. Nick from Skuzzle and I drove the car down to Super 7 Autos a couple of months back in near enough Brighton, they seem to have a good reputation which is rare for a rotary garage and it all seems to be through word of mouth. The owner took the car in and showed us round and nattered for a while; the place is massive, they do everything in house from machine shop work, a huge paint booth, loads of space for cars, 3 ramps and a huge (and very expensive) dyno room. Turns out he is also a good mate of our very own Mr Crosshaw  They had the car for a while and managed to unCanoe all my mistakes, plug in a few things I’d missed, replaced a few sensors and relays and replace a ceased calliper. We then agreed to get the windscreen replaced and see how far it would get through it’s MOT with the new “stricter” rules in place as of May. |
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Post by rich5660 on Jun 3, 2018 18:00:36 GMT
So here’s the first fail... LOL
Repair immediately (major defects):
Anti-lock braking system warning lamp indicates an ABS fault (1.6 (b))
Parking brake lever has excessive movement indicating incorrect adjustment (1.1.6 (c))
Nearside Front Direction indicator not working (4.4.1 (a) (ii))
Offside Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (3.4 (b) (ii))
Front Registration plate missing (0.1 (a))
Nearside Front Position lamp not working (4.2.1 (a))
Offside Headlamp aim too low (4.1.2 (a))
Rear fog lamp not working (4.5.1 (a) (ii))
Rear fog lamp does not emit a steady red light Red lens cover missing. (4.5.4 (a))
Offside Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged or deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.1.3 (g) (ii))
Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))
Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c))
Exhaust hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b))
Exhaust carbon monoxide content at idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (b))
Horn not working (7.7 (a) (ii))
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
Offside Indicator tell-tale inoperative (4.9.1 (a) (i))
Battery insecure but not likely to fall from carrier (4.13 (a) (i))
Nearside Track rod end ball joint dust cover damaged or deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt (2.1.3 (g) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Nearside washer jet slightly misaligned.
Rear view mirror missing on screen.
Nearside headlight beam image slightly distorted.
Slight pulsing to rear lights when indicators are on.
Front relay wiring box not attached to body.
Various oil leaks.
Offside rear brake calliper pipe damp.
Both front inner wheel arch liners loose and have some fixings missing.
Both front and both rear shock absorber dust covers deteriorated.
Nearside Rear Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
Offside Rear Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
Nearside rear subframe bracing bolt loose, but not likely to fail.
Metal fuel pipes at rear of vehicle corroded.
Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material Front to rear pipe. (1.1.11 (c))
Various localised rust patched to brake pipes.
Smell of petrol to rear of vehicle, no visible leak.
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Post by boosted38 on Jun 5, 2018 10:31:47 GMT
Very nice will be worth it when done! I love my FD...you on standard ECU or apexi? ideally you want it on an Apexi and mapped.
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Post by rich5660 on Jun 6, 2018 9:40:23 GMT
I haven’t actually looked but I assume it’s standard. I think my first purchase will be an apexi and a set of coilovers! The guy from super 7 said he’d plug an apexi in to make sure everything is working as it should so I’ll just have to wait and see. boosted38 any pics of yours? |
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Post by boosted38 on Jun 13, 2018 8:52:19 GMT
Mines red, well sunshaded Pink in places, its no mona lisa but goes well! still on twins at about 320bhp.
jdm 18 day.
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Post by rich5660 on Jun 13, 2018 17:37:43 GMT
squelch!
so it passed it MOT today... eek!
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
•Battery insecure but not likely to fall from carrier (4.13 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
•Nearside Front Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))
•Offside Front Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))
•Nearside Rear Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))
•Offside Rear Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))
•Nearside Rear Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
•Offside Rear Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
•Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material Front to rear pipe (1.1.11 (c))
•Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))
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Post by rich5660 on Jun 21, 2018 13:04:54 GMT
YAY  |
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Post by rich5660 on Jun 21, 2018 13:06:32 GMT
BOO  |
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Post by joeytalent on Jun 21, 2018 13:56:52 GMT
Is it crying with happiness?
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Post by atlex on Jun 21, 2018 16:13:26 GMT
Tis but a scratch wound!
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Post by rich5660 on Jun 22, 2018 10:10:00 GMT
Yeah it just had excess coolant so it was fixing itself at the side of the A3 after a few childish laps of hindhead tunnel One hose clamp to reattach and all should be sorted. That rotary reliability though... 2 days on the road and it’s already off the road again. |
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Post by boosted38 on Jul 9, 2018 10:33:07 GMT
Soz if you know but ill say anyway,
1 unsprung cap on coolant tower on engine.
2. Sprung cap on AST vessel at front of engine bay.
Fds can be funny bleeding up. The coolant reservoir under right headlight should be set to full and both engine and ast filled. Warmed up on idle shut off and vacuum will pull extra coolant through from the reservoir, when cold re fill everything again and warm up.
Hopefully you have a working coolant buzzer, there is a 10 second delay on this triggering on off to prevent false alarm.
If it pushes any coolant out as overfilled it should be from the plsstic tank...but if it keeps pushing out there is a problem usually in sufficient cooling...the cooling system on an FD is just so...a quality Koyo rad will make it run so much cooler, my koyo on track fd runs at 84deg! And this leads me onto gauge,its non linear so will sit just under middle and get hotter and hotter then ping needle shoots up.
That water leak on floor looks like its got alot of cooper seal init....this is used to masked a coolant seal leak where combustion gases get into coolant jacket and boil coolant up.
Worth hitting youtube for "champayne test" hopefully everything fine but you should be able to boost allday with a full functioning coolant system.
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le sigh