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Post by howardb66 on Oct 7, 2022 12:55:26 GMT
Whilst I’m fiddling around with the MX5, I’m going to refit the standard rear ARB for the winter. The reason being is that the whiteline one does give a lot more grip but combined with my suspension, tyres & diff, I’m going to chicken out & go for a slightly lower grip but more predictable set up.
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Post by Zed. on Oct 7, 2022 13:15:03 GMT
I’m going to chicken out & go for a slightly lower grip but more predictable set up. maybe not less grip but more body-roll (& driven-wheels on floor??)  Rich. |
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Post by howardb66 on Oct 13, 2022 11:55:02 GMT
Just for comparison between the std ARB & the whiteline updated one..  |
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Post by batou on Oct 13, 2022 19:40:33 GMT
howardb66 is that the rear? Whats the diameter of each? Whiteline looks chonky. I'm a big fan of big thick rear roll bars on front wheel drive but find them a bit of a blunt instrument on rear/mid drive cars and as you describe makes things a bit unpredicable (fine in FWD when you just use the loud pedal to straighten lift off o/s), might be better tuning it with spring rate and alignment instead to get what you want? 
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Post by howardb66 on Oct 14, 2022 11:52:37 GMT
howardb66 is that the rear? Whats the diameter of each? Whiteline looks chonky. I'm a big fan of big thick rear roll bars on front wheel drive but find them a bit of a blunt instrument on rear/mid drive cars and as you describe makes things a bit unpredicable (fine in FWD when you just use the loud pedal to straighten lift off o/s), might be better tuning it with spring rate and alignment instead to get what you want? Yes you’re right, was thinking of my 205gti days- it used to regularly lift an inside rear wheel. The thicker ARBs definitely increased the grip- this is shown in my times on track, in the dry on high grip surfaces. In the wet, I want something a little more progressive so I’m trying a combo of the white line front & std rear. Also have been playing with the alignment & changed the springs. |
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Post by howardb66 on Dec 19, 2022 9:50:22 GMT
[/url] [/quote] thought about a possible issue with taking a feed from the head (NOT the vvt solenoid) the oil feed in the cylinderblock to the cylinderhead has a restrictor, taking turbo oil feed after the restrictor may not be a great idea? Rich.[/quote] Good spot Zed. . Maybe the reason oil poured out of the port was the angle that I had the front of the car jacked up at. I can just swap the bungs from the back of the head to the VVT solenoid. Have also given thought to what jon said earlier about the brief pressure ‘trough’ when the VVT operates, I think there will still be positive pressure compared to a much lower overall flow from the port on the back that I’m currently using.[/quote] So it turns out that I should have stuck with my original take off for the oil feed line to the turbo (not using the bung on the VVT). A friend’s MX5, which is pretty much identical to mine, produces another 40lbft of torque but same power, so I took mine to the same place that mapped his. The guy said that my VVT isn’t working due to not having enough oil pressure for the actuator, however, the turbo is being supplied with a lot of oil! So with the oil line reinstated to its feed from the back of the engine, hopefully the missing torque will be found.🤞🏻 |
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Post by Zed. on Dec 19, 2022 12:13:27 GMT
~40lbft is a chunk, you've done well competing so far (only the one recorded spin?) and I'm curious if the 'extra' could make things 'interesting' sometimes the old saying 'Less is more' can be very true  F uckit. no kill like overkill  Rich. |
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Post by howardb66 on Dec 19, 2022 12:26:46 GMT
~40lbft is a chunk, you've done well competing so far (only the one recorded spin?) and I'm curious if the 'extra' could make things 'interesting' sometimes the old saying 'Less is more' can be very true F uckit. no kill like overkill Rich. Ha, it’s been a bit of a chequered season. Going back to the std rear ARB has given me the balance back plus with the Kaaz, it should provide a good amount of grip to help get out of corners. With the heavily cambered tight corners on hillclimbs, traction was pretty tricky & modulating on/off boost etc etc. |
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Post by scottydugg on Dec 19, 2022 16:33:15 GMT
So next year you remove the handicap then  Can you use launch control on the hill climbs? |
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 21, 2023 12:32:16 GMT
Here’s a quick question.
The brake fluid could do with a change. I’ve got some brand new Millers 300 dot 4 fluid but only 500ml, is that enough? I’ve got 1/2 a tin of ATE200 dot 4 that’s been opened but kept sealed, is it ok to use that as a top up just in case?
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 21, 2023 12:53:12 GMT
So next year you remove the handicap then Can you use launch control on the hill climbs? Yes, you can use launch but we get a handicap penalty for it. My MX5 doesn’t have any electronic gizmo’s which is the way I like it. It’s interesting to watch some of the later porkers where you can see the individual wheels being brakes by their stability systems- despite the drivers saying they’re turned off… I still beat them anyway.🙂 |
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Post by atlex on Jan 21, 2023 14:36:42 GMT
Here’s a quick question. The brake fluid could do with a change. I’ve got some brand new Millers 300 dot 4 fluid but only 500ml, is that enough? I’ve got 1/2 a tin of ATE200 dot 4 that’s been opened but kept sealed, is it ok to use that as a top up just in case? If they're both dot4 it'll be fine. the 'heat resistant' fluid only needs to be near the heatsource if that's why you've got the 300 stuff. Basically do the system with the millers then top off with the old ATE, the fluid close to the master cylinder is basically just doing the job of pushing. if you're paranoid get a water contents brake fluid tester meter thingy, they're super cheap off ebay/amazon. I've had brake fluid opened&sealed&stored outside and it's kept its properties (no measurable water content) for over a year. |
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 21, 2023 17:02:00 GMT
Here’s a quick question. The brake fluid could do with a change. I’ve got some brand new Millers 300 dot 4 fluid but only 500ml, is that enough? I’ve got 1/2 a tin of ATE200 dot 4 that’s been opened but kept sealed, is it ok to use that as a top up just in case? If they're both dot4 it'll be fine. the 'heat resistant' fluid only needs to be near the heatsource if that's why you've got the 300 stuff. Basically do the system with the millers then top off with the old ATE, the fluid close to the master cylinder is basically just doing the job of pushing. if you're paranoid get a water contents brake fluid tester meter thingy, they're super cheap off ebay/amazon. I've had brake fluid opened&sealed&stored outside and it's kept its properties (no measurable water content) for over a year. Cheers atlex that’s affirmed what I’d though.👍🏻 |
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 25, 2023 19:05:28 GMT
Did the brake fluid today, used the ramp at a mate’s garage. Had a minor drama getting there (the long way😂), was doing an overtake & suddenly lost all boost. Fortunately, had plenty of momentum to complete the move safely. When I got to the garage & popped the bonnet, it seems that the C clip that holds the actuator arm onto the wastegate had disappeared. It turns out that C clips from Ford van rear door pins fit perfectly.😁  |
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Post by howardb66 on Jan 26, 2023 10:07:33 GMT
Just ordered a pack of 3 clips for pence. I’m going to leave the Ford one on to see how long it lasts, any bets?  |
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le sigh